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  #16  
Old 01-19-2008, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73strokin
I would think that the stainless would be fine. I think it was either 303 or 304 that the hex stock was sold in. I'm sure standard lug nuts are heat treated some, but stainless itself is harder and stronger than standard steel just because of its properties and manufacturing. I'm not an expert on metallurgy but from basic knowledge that's what I'd conclude. I would think before you have problems stripping threads or wearing down nuts you would probably start snapping studs off first.

I just wanted to throw it out there for something to think about.
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2008, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
how about these
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GOR%2D76197XL&N=700+400092+4294919065+115&autoview=sku

Gorilla claims a lifetime warrantee. They cost about 2 1/2 times more than the chrome one I currently have but atleast they might last.
These are actually the nuts that I have that are rusting. Chrome plated steel. Not impressed with them at all. And a lifetime warranty? How many times will they uphold this warranty and will they honor it if they can tell you used an impact? It says right on the box: Do Not use an impact wrench! Who's going to listen to that? Especially at a shop. Some questions I thought I'd throw out there to ask yourselves. Personally I'd rather just do it right and go with stainless, whether I can buy them or have to make them.
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  #18  
Old 01-19-2008, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 HD
I just wanted to throw it out there for something to think about.
I totally agree. If anybody with some metallugy background would see a need to heat treat the stainless, feel free to chime in.
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PHP 6 Pos Chip, Full Force Diesel 238s, Custom 304 Stainless 4" Dual Exhaust with 6" Tips, DIY Intake with AFE Filter, DieselSite Electric Fuel, HPX Line, 203* Thermostat, 4" Superlift, Dana 60, 315/70R17s, '08 Diff Cover, Duallie Tensioner
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  #19  
Old 01-25-2008, 08:13 AM
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I asked arround, and all of the metal "experts" I know say that stainless would be fine by itself, no heat tempering required.
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  #20  
Old 01-25-2008, 04:09 PM
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Thanks for the info. I figured that the stainless would be fine but it's good to have some extra opinions. Now I just have to order the tap and stainless and make a prototype! I've never turned stainless before so I'll have to see how it's going to cut.
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PHP 6 Pos Chip, Full Force Diesel 238s, Custom 304 Stainless 4" Dual Exhaust with 6" Tips, DIY Intake with AFE Filter, DieselSite Electric Fuel, HPX Line, 203* Thermostat, 4" Superlift, Dana 60, 315/70R17s, '08 Diff Cover, Duallie Tensioner
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  #21  
Old 02-02-2008, 08:57 PM
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Gorilla makes SS lugnuts in 9/16" x 2" and 2.4" the part numbers are 96197(8)SS and 96197(8)XLSS. I am guessing the difference as to whether the part number ends in 7 or 8 is the packaging and number of lugs? I am trying to find a price. I would like to remove my center caps and sell them when I get new tires. Then, add the SS lugs. 2" or 2.4"?
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  #22  
Old 02-02-2008, 09:08 PM
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i work in a welding/ machine shop, only prob we have found with using stainless nuts against steel bolts is if they are overtightened( which is common) the stainless will sometimes gall or strip and the nut will become jammed, and either strip totally or twist the lug or bolt off, only seems too be a problem if its over tightened, but work fine otherwise, just something to think about.
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  #23  
Old 02-02-2008, 09:56 PM
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I have an e-mail in to Gorilla for pricing. When they reply I will inquire about any potential problems. I am sure they have their liabilities covered by excluding the use of impact wrenches and torque specs. I'll ask tho. Sounds like my local tire shed (seriously, a big shed) would have to be reminded to torque by hand when they rotate if I go with the SS.
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  #24  
Old 02-02-2008, 10:45 PM
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I do not believe that SS heat treats like carbon steel...
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  #25  
Old 02-02-2008, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzy460
i work in a welding/ machine shop, only prob we have found with using stainless nuts against steel bolts is if they are overtightened( which is common) the stainless will sometimes gall or strip and the nut will become jammed, and either strip totally or twist the lug or bolt off, only seems too be a problem if its over tightened, but work fine otherwise, just something to think about.
Use a copper or silver compounded anti-sieze to stop this...
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  #26  
Old 02-03-2008, 06:08 AM
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Those Gorilla nuts are something to look into if they are indeed SS without chrome plating. I have Gorilla nuts now and they must be just chrome plated steel, because they are starting to rust. My whole intent behind stainless steel nuts was to make a nut that would hold up appearance wise without a coating. Because sooner or later any coating is going to break off or crack, whether an impact is used or not. And lets face it, most of us, and probably all shops are going to use an impact to change lug nuts. Reguarding the galling/stripping of the stainless, I have not heard of this, but the antiseize compound might be a good idea as long as it doesn't keep the nut "too loose" and allow it to work its way off.
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  #27  
Old 02-03-2008, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark62
Use a copper or silver compounded anti-sieze to stop this...
yea never thought of that
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  #28  
Old 02-03-2008, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73strokin
Reguarding the galling/stripping of the stainless, I have not heard of this, but the antiseize compound might be a good idea as long as it doesn't keep the nut "too loose" and allow it to work its way off.
The Stainless galls and strips the thread off of the Carbon steel part(if your lucky it comes apart) otherwise it seized up completely and you have to break the stud.

The problem that causes the seizing is garbage on/in the threads. clean the lug nut and stud before assembly. I have seen Teflon Coated SS bolts seize going into carbon steel...
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  #29  
Old 02-03-2008, 09:58 AM
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Check out the pictures in this link. I believe their "SS" lugs are sleeved...probably with steel.

http://www.gorilla-auto.com/lifetime.lug.nuts.stainless
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White 1997 F250HD CC PSD E4OD 4.10s 152k

K&N FIPK (w/ sock!), 3" DP & delete,

Guages x3, Edge Evo, 10k, HPX, 203* T-stat

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Coming Soon... 140v IDM,CCV Mod, Rear Air Springs, 4" exhaust behind delete and a set of MTs for snow!


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  #30  
Old 02-03-2008, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTNWOODY
Check out the pictures in this link. I believe their "SS" lugs are sleeved...probably with steel.

http://www.gorilla-auto.com/lifetime.lug.nuts.stainless
It plainly states SS body with Chrome Vanadium steel seating surface...
Looks to me that the only part that is SS is the Cap.....
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Old 02-03-2008, 09:51 PM
 
 
 
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