5.5" or 3.5" +2?

[76 crew]

looking for opinions on whether i should run a 5.5 chassis lift, or a 3.5 chassis, and a 2" body lift. i've read up on some stuff about body lifts, like extending fuel hoses, clutch linkage, etc. but a 1" i should be ok without doing any of that stuff, hopefully.

i have to have at least a 5.5 to run 35" tires right???

i was leaning toward the body lift cause i plan to do the nv3550 swap in the future and they say the extra body clearance helps. i dont mind doing a 5.5 now and when i do the trans later i'll do a 1" body for a total of 6.5.

could i buy a 5.5 kit from jeff's, and thats all i'll need or will i have to buy extra stuff like driveshafts that they don't mention in their kits

not looking for long travel or anything extreme, my truck will be about 75% street, but i also like to get lost up in the mountains, so i wont go smaller than 35's

[Boba Fett]

I think if you are going to scrimp and save your money and you can fabricate then a body lift is a cheap way to add lift. You can install a 2" body lift and run 33s with a stock suspension. The problems arise with the steering column, clutch release, brake lines from MC to block valve, etc.

If you are going to 35s then do the suspension lift. If you can afford it do extended radius arms because you have to set them with the axle on the ground and they really help suspension geometry.

You will have to do driveshafts most likely. You need a CV joint in your rear shaft too! If you truck is 75% street you can do the rear and run without a front shaft for a while.

[RCrawler]

If you have cutout flares on the front, you can clear 35's with a 3.5" lift. I did this for a while with stock shock mounting and only had minor rubbing in the inner fenders in extremely crossed up situations. Going with a 2" body lift helped, but I still rub a little bit in the same places. I also run 8" wheels with a 3 7/8" offset, so they are really sucked into the fenders.

Its a toss up IMO to go with a 3.5/ 2 body, or 5.5 suspension only. I've seen both systems perform extremely well. Concentrate more on the details such as the shock mounting, steering correction, and as Boba Fett mentioned, aftermarket radius arms. And most important, safety. Extended brake lines and E brake cables are worth the money.

The biggest downfall of a body lift is the fact that the bumpers will sit low compared to the body. This isn't a big deal with stock, or non functional, chrome bumpers. But if you are trying to install a winch or plan on using your bumper as a pull point, it can be expensive and time consuming to re engineer them to regain clearance. I've been meaning to redo mine for years, but never think about it until my winch bumper digs itself into a bank or gets hung up where it would have cleared otherwise.

Boba Fett: FYI, all early Broncos came with CV drivelines in the rear. On a street and mild trail Bronco, you can get away with the stock length driveline with a 3.5" lift. But I wouldn't recommend it for anything taller.

Jason

[76 crew]

boba fett i don't understand what you mean by "do extended radius arms because you have to set them with the axle on the ground"

when you guys say cv driveshaft you guys are talking about the double u joint driveshaft?

whats the difference between extended radius arms, and dropping the radius arm, in general i see the "extreme" or long travel kits with extended arms, and big lift kits with drop radius arms brackets.

good point Rcrawler on the bumper

also some kits come with drop trac bar bracket, and some adjustable trac bar, what do you guys recommend, i would think it would be best to run both, but dont really understand too much about the geometry. this whole trac bar thing is why people get the death wobble right?

[RCrawler]

I think what Boba Fett meant by doing them on the ground has to do with the infamous "Bronco lean". When you replace the C bushings with a lift, it is important to tighten the c caps equally. If you don't, it will put a preload on one radius arm and cause it to tilt one corner a little bit (which causes one front corner to sit lower). This is multiplied by using the current technology soft ride springs. A homebrewed way to ensure that you torque them evenly is to remove the radius arms from the rear mounts. And with the axle on the ground, tighten the c caps, making sure that the ends of the radius arms stay as parallel as possible and the same measurement from the ground.
I have done several lifts on these, and I've only had problems with one, which happened to be my own. I found success using a 1/2" impact and evenly tightening the bolts in short bursts until they were tight.

Yes, the CV driveline has double joints and a spring at the transfer case end.

A drop radius arm bracket will help the geometry with larger lifts, but will do nothing to help travel. When you extend the arms it not only lessens the angle of the radius arm and removes the bind in the rear bushings, but it also reduces the leverage on the arm. Its main purpose is to restore caster to help steering control. This helps free up the front end to travel. With a 3.5" lift, the drop brackets or extended arms are not necessary. But with a 5.5", you are almost beyond the caster limits of the 7 deg c bushings. They will run this way. IMO, the extended arms are the way to go.

What track bar method you use depends on what your needs are. When you lift a Bronco, the angle between the drag link and the track bar changes. A drop track bar bracket (and a rasied axle bracket if needed) and/ or a dropped pitman arm is needed. If the angle between the track bar and drag link is not parallel, it will cause handling issues and bump steer. And another thing that happens with a lift is that the front end, guided by the track bar, will move toward the drivers side. The A drop track bar bracket can help center the front end, but the ability to fine tune it by adjusting the track bar is the best way.

Once you get the geometry right and the front end centered under the Bronco, you may find that the steering is now a bit sloppy. Now, by fixing the suspension issues, you find the drag link is too short to bring the steering box to center. Now you need an adjustable one.

There is really no formula to say what you will need to fix with a given lift. Every Bronco reacts differently so you really need to diagnose your handling or steering symptoms and fix them as they need.

The death wobble comes from worn track bar bushings. This is a weak link in the Ford coil front end. Even new bushings can be worn out after a weekend of hard wheeling. There are some HD aftermarket parts available with heim ends available. If you plan on keeping the current setup, make sure the frame end stays tight and inspect the bolt hole in the frame bracket when you replace bushings. They have a tendency to get egged out that new bushings won't fix.

HTH,
Jason

[76 crew]

thanks for the tip on the c bushings

in light of your suggestions i think i'll go with a 3.5+body, dont feel like getting carried away with driveshafts, and radius arms, etc. just yet.

as far as the track bar i understand the benefit in the ability to fine tune it, however it still wouldn't really change the angle right? cause the mounting points are still the same. so would i have to go with the drop bracket, AND the adjustable bar?

how do i know what amount of drop i need in my pitman arm, i see 4" drop, how do i know whats right for me?

still need an adjustable drag link for a 3.5?

i know that there is no universal formula, and that every car is different, but with my shipping issues to hawaii, its a pain if i forget to order stuff, or have to return stuff. i know that there will be adjustments, and some things can't be foreseen, but i'm trying not to miss any of the obvious stuff on the first go around. i hate to be half way through a job, and can't finish then i gotta wait two weeks for a "bracket" to come in.

[RCrawler]

With a 3.5" lift, rule of thumb says that you will need a drop pitman arm and drop track bar bracket. This will get you pretty close in most cases. AFAIK, the Bronco shops are selling 1 size of drop pitman arm. So it should just depend on what steering box you have.

The drop track bar bracket will also help to recenter the front end under the Bronco. The adjustable track bar will finish the job. On a 3.5" lift, there's a good chance you will only need the drop bracket.

The adjustable drag link will only help to recenter the steering box to help with the OE steering feel. Without it, you're steering may feel a little looser than stock and you will loose a little bit of steering to one side. I ran my Bronco for many years with the fixed draglink and I have never needed the adjustable track bar. When I changed drag links, my steering feel was improved, but not by a lot.

My suggestion is to purchase a pitman arm and the drop bracket and see how it feels. The other things will not hold you up from driving your Bronco.
HTH,

[76 crew]

thanks for all your help Rcrawler

[Boba Fett]

Another nice this about the body lift is that you also gain very much needed room under the hood for engine space. The stock hood fits very tight to the top of the engine and therefore that extra 2" really helps.

[four4x4fords]

the body lift also helps get the hot air out from under the hood and the floor boards too. Probably one of the most practical mods I have done to mine.

[76 crew]

i was only thinking of a body lift because i plan a trans swap later on, but you guys bring up some good points i never thought about before.

if i get that extra clearance under the hood maybe i can run a regular air cleaner, instead of having to change hoods or run a scoop.

thanks for your insight.