Adding To Bio
#2
#3
Originally Posted by jimmeste
I am using DK (in white bottle), along with 10% K-1 in my homebrew. It has a freeze point of about 25°F. This is better than my B50 mix by about 5°F. I use it only for the antigel properties. I don't think it has much else to offer over biodiesel.
#5
Originally Posted by jimmeste
Yes kerosene. I mix it in after the drying step.
thanks again.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
first of let me start by saying thank you for your replies. Just to make sure that Im understanding this.
My understanding is that DK with dino, helps with cleaning and boost's milagle. but with b100 its just an anti-gelling agent with no other purpose? is that correct. and (#2 dino) vise K-1 is for anti - gel also?
sorry for being so dence, I'm just trying to get a total understanding on this new world....
JoryLee
My understanding is that DK with dino, helps with cleaning and boost's milagle. but with b100 its just an anti-gelling agent with no other purpose? is that correct. and (#2 dino) vise K-1 is for anti - gel also?
sorry for being so dence, I'm just trying to get a total understanding on this new world....
JoryLee
#10
Your understanding of DK is almost correct.
DK in the Grey bottle increases the Cetane number, increases lubricity, and helps keep injectors cleaner.
DK in the White bottle does all that and adds antigel properties, it actually is not as good at increasing the Cetane number.
Bio Diesel has a higher Cetane number, has much greater lubricity, and is an excellent fuel system cleaner than #2 dino with DK added. So all you need is the antigel properties. Typically that is accomplished by running a BD/#2 blend in the winter, the percentages vary depending on your location. The blend gives all the benefits of BD with the better gelling properties of #2. You still do not need DK for any of the grey bottle properties. If you are in a very cold area the use #1 dino to blend instead of #2 and you should be able to avoid DK completely.
Kerosene is, for all practical purposes, highly refined diesel with all of the sulpher removed. Since dino diesel depends on the sulpher to increase lubricity it is absolutely necessary to supplement kerosene, used as a fuel, with lubricity enhancers. BD does that well. Kerosene should drop the cloud/gel point of BD at least as much as #2 dino so if that is good enough for your area you should not have any problem. The next task is to determine whether or not there is any $$ advantage to kerosene over #2. Just compare the price per gallon that will answer the question.
To determine what blend is needed to avoid gelling problems simple make samples of various blends put them in glass jars stick a thermometer in and put the jars in a freezer. Monitor frequently and when each sample starts to turn cloudy you know the cloud point of that blend. Pick the blend that will protect you from the lowest expected temp in your area.
DK in the Grey bottle increases the Cetane number, increases lubricity, and helps keep injectors cleaner.
DK in the White bottle does all that and adds antigel properties, it actually is not as good at increasing the Cetane number.
Bio Diesel has a higher Cetane number, has much greater lubricity, and is an excellent fuel system cleaner than #2 dino with DK added. So all you need is the antigel properties. Typically that is accomplished by running a BD/#2 blend in the winter, the percentages vary depending on your location. The blend gives all the benefits of BD with the better gelling properties of #2. You still do not need DK for any of the grey bottle properties. If you are in a very cold area the use #1 dino to blend instead of #2 and you should be able to avoid DK completely.
Kerosene is, for all practical purposes, highly refined diesel with all of the sulpher removed. Since dino diesel depends on the sulpher to increase lubricity it is absolutely necessary to supplement kerosene, used as a fuel, with lubricity enhancers. BD does that well. Kerosene should drop the cloud/gel point of BD at least as much as #2 dino so if that is good enough for your area you should not have any problem. The next task is to determine whether or not there is any $$ advantage to kerosene over #2. Just compare the price per gallon that will answer the question.
To determine what blend is needed to avoid gelling problems simple make samples of various blends put them in glass jars stick a thermometer in and put the jars in a freezer. Monitor frequently and when each sample starts to turn cloudy you know the cloud point of that blend. Pick the blend that will protect you from the lowest expected temp in your area.
Last edited by Phydeaux88; 01-11-2008 at 12:29 PM.
#11
Let me start by saying WOW. That wrapped it up for me. Ill copy and past this to my friend who is starting his b100 as early as next week give or take. Ill be getting my fuel from him by the end of the month if all goes well. were hoping to be spending no more then a buck a gallon. hell ya. dino around here (kitsap county washington) is about 3.40 to 3.70 a gallon.
some of the things ill be looking at now are:
150 gallon tank to install in the bed of the truck as a usable second gas tank. I would like to have this done around here "bremerton area" and set up on a toggle switch. any suggestions whould be great. I dont have my bed lined yet and am thinking about lining it after the tank is installed. any opinions on that??
Also does anyone know of the best place in KITSAP COUNTY to buy methonal gas to add to the B100 .
THANKS for everything guys.
JoryLee
some of the things ill be looking at now are:
150 gallon tank to install in the bed of the truck as a usable second gas tank. I would like to have this done around here "bremerton area" and set up on a toggle switch. any suggestions whould be great. I dont have my bed lined yet and am thinking about lining it after the tank is installed. any opinions on that??
Also does anyone know of the best place in KITSAP COUNTY to buy methonal gas to add to the B100 .
THANKS for everything guys.
JoryLee