Im back at the cab metal work. I have two cabs. I tried to cheat and now im starting over again. I tried to replace a complete floor from rocker to rocker and firewall to back wall. started ok but it was to much at one time to do. I braced the cab and added casters to roll it around but when i cut the whole floor out things moved. I stoped before i wasted anymore time. i have now brought in the other cab that needs more work but it was sand blasted and is in epoxy primer. i know what metal is good and bad. If you where to look at my gallery under cab you will see pics of the 2 cabs. Please look at the one that is in epoxy and give me a clue as to where to start. I think it is best to do small sections than the whole thing. The biggest problem i have is PO welded new floor sections poorly. Where the front bolts go there is just holes, no support. They cut out the angle gusset next to the hinge pocket. Please Help! Thanks RT

 

well, I recall how these cabs move when you cut too much of a section at one time. The poxy cab does not look too scary to me. Mine was worse than that. I did 1 (one) corner at a time starting at the pass side rear and did it until it was just right (learning curve) finish welded it and then to RF and then right rocker. I only tack where it meets the next part to come off. Then to driver side, the the left front floor and then right front floor. Do not start a section until you finish the last with full weld. I did this with a minimum of bracing and it did not move at all. I have lots of pics of the entire process but way way too large a file to post of load to gallery. If you had the time, I could send a cd with pics but it is just pics. no secrets or any further help. I think patience is going to be your best friend on this. Looks like you're equipped to go forward to me. Re-post as you need more help.
Jon

 

Jon, did you start from the outside or the inside? I was thinking about welding the front cab mounts in than move to the floor section. This is a daily driver but i dont want to hack it either. I just think if i go small steps at a time it will be ok. I understand what you mean about full welding and move on to the next area. I know i can grind down the top side flat, but will it look to funny with seams all over from under the floor? I could go crazy thinking about this!!!!!!!!

I would like to see some pics if i could? Thanks RT

 

I did in the order listed above. The floor was last as the orig floor is what kept the cab square while I worked the rest. Once the RR,LR,L Rocr,LR,LF,L Rocr were done, I did the floor. I just looked in my gallery, there are some pics there.

The welding bead does not matter where you can't see it. Try to avoid grinding any bead. When I look under my cab these days, I appreciate the beads, they spell "STRONG" to me. A lot of my welding is underside to avoid dressing any welds as mush as poss. You have a very nice mig there fella., and where did you get that very cool t-shirt??

 

I just looked in your gallery. Im sick, your work is to good. That must have taken a long time. I love the color. Im going to paint mine 99 mustang yellow. What did you use for welding? RT

 

A millermatic at my friends shop, and then a Hobart handler 125, but now I own a lincoln at the home shop. I used the 2002 Mustang at first then changed to a 2002 VW sunflower as the first was a lot of yellow. Both work on our trucks, and it is just a matter of my old tired eyes (sens to light)
And don't feel sick Roger, you can do just as good if not better. I am a DIY and nothin more. I just took my time and never felt rushed since I had other cruizers to keep me rolling on weekends. And ask for FTE help when needed.
Jon

 

Jon did you do all these with the doors on?RT

 

I must agree, CIAF your work is superb. Mine may not be as great but ill put my cents in as well. I agree that your cab is in really good shape, mine too was in much worse than both of you guys. I just took it slow and went in Right front corner, left front corner,right rocker, left rocker, rear corners, and floor. It took me several months to get it done but it came out verry well. Ive been working on my gallery and should have it set up this week, take a look if its any help to you. I think mustang yellows a good color too.

 

Roger, door off as per the pics. They just get in the way and are too heavy for the for the pockets when you do the front corners. This is why the cab MUST stay in square, so the door will fit back on.
Jon

 

Thanks Cody. Sounds like you did nearly as I did. I look forward to the pictures. I like looking at the galleries and seeing what other members have and are doing. I also agree it matters not at all the sequence as long as it is just 1 section at a time. I did mine in that sequence so I could leave the welder and tools in 1 section on the shop floor. Most guys I know do it in the sequence you did. Another guy bounced back and forth to keep from getting board and his came out real nice too.
I will look for you pics soon.

 

Hey guy"s .sorry I"m late on this,this type of job seems to be a commom problem ,I think every job seems to be just a little bit different, If I could add another consideration..,after 50 year" of rust and "cab/door" sag,do we try and repair/weld-in reproduction panels to match/fit that tired old sagging thing..?? It took one of my Railroad Buddies (Engineer..) to show me another way.. take both front and rear cab glasse"s out, Build a truss (2+6..about 34 inch"s wide,10-14 ft. long..,) run it thru the cab glass opening"s, rest it on a couple of 8 ft. step ladders..(are you with me so far?) Take it/rest it at a comfortable working height,..if the floor must come out ,so-be-it , the more metal that goes away..,the more "flexability" the cab offer"s,get your door gap"s right.,re-inforce to sqaure it up and fit your new panels to weld in.Take your time,don"t rush,..just my .02$ ..Keep us posted..Good Luck!!!

 

cmoritz, I see what you are saying but i sorta did what you said minus the ladders. look in my gallery and you see a pick of the cab i braced than cut the whole bottom out. the weight of the cab started to move and the side door walls started to buckle. so i stoped before it was to late. I have a total of 3 cabs to get what patchs i need plus new aftermarket ones i also bought.

 

jon where about did you brace the cab? or did you just brace before the floor was repaired? thanks RT

 

From the RR corner to the LF corner and then from RF to the LR corner to form an "X" with 1" sq tubing. Worked for me.

I have seen the method Moritz explains but I am a rookie and did not want to bite off more than I could chew so I did not want to chance it, but it would work well when the cab is already twited and the doors are out of square anyhow. I did not want the ladders in the way as I was using a space at a rodshop and needed to stay compact to be nice.My cab stood on a roller cart 3' off the ground and was put into a corner after each work session. Again , a plus for everybody around when I was not there. The cab held all my tools, the cart held all the parts on a small shelf to stay out of the way while working on cab. This method made it real enjoyable for me, but no 2 guys are the same and methods are all different. Glad to help you R

Jon