Hmm, I changed nothing with the tranny when I swapped from 4.10s to 3.08s, the C6 shifted nicely with both setups.

 

you can get away with using the same governor but it has to be overcome by changing the vrv setting the governors are of different weights to componsate for different driveshaft speeds , if you had installed a c-6 output shaft and governor from a lincoln for instance you would have real problems with early upshifts, the output shafts are also different due to the speedo gear the 4.10 trucks have a 6 tooth gear on the output shaft and we also had a 7 , 8 and 9 tooth gears depending on rear axle ratio

 

ok question about the trans in my truck. ever since i rebuilt the trans in my truck i didnt like the way it pulled a load. reason being it would shift through all the gears and the whole time you were driving it would constantly loose its rpms and you would have to keep giving it fuel and all of a sudden it would kick down into passing gear and go back up. it would do this over and over again. kind of anoying, thought the truck would perform a lot better than that pulling a load. do you think that it has to do with the rod that goes from the ip to the trans?

 

it sounds like the vrv valve is adjusted incorrectly causing early upshifts , first though the kickdown rod needs to be correct there should be a return spring connected to it at the IP and it should be depressed only at full throttle , push the rod back with light pressure until it stops and then open the throttle on the IP they should both match at wide open throttle if there is a gap between the lever and the IP lever then adjust the screw in if there is interferrence preventing the throttle from opening completly then back the screw out until both are at their full throttle position , after that is verified then loosen the two screws on the vrv valve by tilting the top of the valve toward the front of the truck will raise the shift points you can do it in small increments until it shifts the way you like , if it doesnt change the vrv could be bad you can check it with a vacuum gauge unhook the hose that goes to the trans and install the vacuum gauge to it at idle it will have high vacuum 18 inches or better and when you open the throttle with the engine running the vacuum should drop if it does not drop then the valve is bad and should be replaced , whenever a vrv supplies high vacuum all the time it will damage the transmission because it is operating at minimum throttle and line pressure

 

ever since i owned the truck it never had the kickdown rod atached. the previous owner removed it, but i do have it. im not sure if it would be adjusted correctly or not ill have to see when i put it back on. thanks for the info.
jarrett

 

I have a question..my brother has an extra E4OD from a 5.0L Bronco...I have a C6 behind my 7.3 IDI diesel in my Bronco...I was wondering if I can swap the planetary gearset, etc to my Diesel C6 or would is shift at a too high of a rate? The C6 is on it's way out

 

I remember when I first drove my truck after swapping to the E4OD I really didn't notice much of an RPM difference up to 3rd gear. The only difference I noticed was having more pulling power in 1st gear but its hard to say because I also added a low stall converter at the same time. Wilth tall gearing anything counts for my situation though. 1 - 2 and 3 felt exactly like the the C6 when driving in traffic. Attach a trailer, and then the difference became more noticable.

Only caution I would look out for is what sort of planetary gear you have in the E4OD since its comming out of a small block transmission. Most likely there will only be a 3 pinion aluminum planetary in there. Although thats what the C6 has anyway AFAIK. You could upgrade if you wanted but thats not free parts anymore.

 

I have just gone through a rebuild on a c6, behind an na 6.9. Ford trans tech has given some very good accurate info, with far more experience than I can hope to call on. My trans was a gas variant, so the converter fins were modified during the rebuild to lower the stall to 1400, which is about the level he suggested, a heavier clutch pack installed (5 disc over the 4 that was removed) the widest bands possible were installed, and the valve body shift kitted. This later mod was to aid the hold in gear potential more than anything. The valve body mod was very cheap. Gear ratios seen standard throughout the range. Don't pull the trans apart and not put a new front pump and seal in, they are so relatively cheap that it's a waste of time not doing the new parts thing

 

Which of three drums did you apply the 5 disks over the four?

 

But 5 in the front pack and large band to the front drum