I'm well read on Bearhunters TorqShift service technique, and it seems simple... The problem that's been planted in my head by my local transmission guy is to NOT perform a transmission flush on my (or any) truck if the transmission was not regularly serviced (prior to my owning the truck).
It's at 75K now, well past the 60 K service and God knows if it ever had the 30K, let alone the 60.
In light of this, I'm inclined to drain the pan, replace the bypass (external) filter, replace the 7 or 8 quarts that I drain and then drive it for another 10K. After that 10K I'll then drain the pan again, replace both filters, refill it again and go for another 10K before doing a flush.
Any ideas, input or specific fact on this from resident techs or knowledgeable owners is welcome.
Not sure why they are saying not to flush it. Completely flushing the system is the only way to remove contaminated fluid from the Transmission lines, cooler and Torque Converter. Simply draining the pan, filling it and driving will do nothing but push the contamination into another section of the tranny.
If it were me, I would drop the pan, inspect the Servos and underside for any discoloration or damage. Remove the external filter (Passenger Side Front Frame Rail) and then put the cap back in without the Toilet Paper roll. Clean out the Transmission pan, bolt the Pan back up. Then disconnect the Bypass lines by the Torque Convert. You'll need two hoses and a big container. Fill up the transmission with fluid and have someone start the truck. Watch both lines as the fluid comes out, it'll be dirty.. Once you get surge and clean fluid yell to kill the truck.. Fill it up again and repeat the process 3 times or so. By 3rd time you should have nothing but clean fluid coming out. Then remove the External Filter cap, dump that fluid into the bin, put toliet paper roll in and fill up transmission to proper specs.
That's how we did my flush last time.. It's one of the true ways to do it.. I don't trust the flush machines that much because they either suck the fluid out of the fill tube or they don't bother changing the toilet paper roll.
My opinion tho If you do this method make sure you got double the needed amount of fluid.. You'll flush ALOT through.. I came up short on a day nobody had Transmission fluid for the 5R lol
The reason that you shouldn't flush an "old" transmission is that new transmission fluid will more than likely cause a progressive/cascase clutch/band failure.
The amount of difference in lubricity between the old and new fluid is substantial, and the new fluid is too slick for the old clutches and bands. Yeah, it sounds goofy, but it's true. I had this happen on my old Chevy... Changed the fluid, and within a week the truck was in the shop getting a rebuild.
As long as the fluid is not burnt, LEAVE IT ALONE.
(if it's burnt, then you may be in for a new tranny anyway...)
I wonder how performing a trans flush on a truck where the transmission was not regularly serviced would have a negative affect? Personally I would drain the pan and replace the external filter this time. Take a look at your old filter and fluid and let that guide you towards what service you do next on the trans. That's what I did.
That's worse case scenario.. In any aspect I'd be highly pissed if putting new, clean fluid in caused my clutches to fail.. Joys of modern technology LOL
The argument generally goes something like: the sludge & whatever other build-ups are in the transmission will be keeping seals sealed. The new detergent load in fresh fluid will wash all of this away & the transmission will start leaking. Additionally, dislodging these contaminants will release them to block up critical passageways...which can/will lead to transmission failure.
In my opinion: Leaving these deposits in place will only guarantee future transmission failure. At best, they may mask a real problem. But even then, the problem will be worse by the time it is noticed. And worse equals higher rebuild cost. Cleaning them out now is your best chance of minimizing or negating any future damage to the transmission.
__________________ Semper Fi
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Thanks friends! (hey Storm ) Given the feedback from ya' all, I'm pretty much in the same place. I'll likely stick with the drain the pan & replace the bypass filter, letting their conditions act as my guide for the next step. It may very well be the best incremental solution to this issue. I wonder if Blackstone does transmission fluid analysis? Maybe I can get a clinical "look" at the transmissions state of health...
I was told the same thing years ago by a high school friend who is a mechanic from TSTI. He said basically what Deluxe & Frankenbiker mentioned about the new fluid hurting the clutches and cleaning all the old gunk out, thereby destroying the trans sooner than later.
He also said that once your transmission starts to go bad, you cannot really hurt it much more. You cannot "partially" rebuild a transmission and expect it to last very long, so it will need a complete rebuild to clean out all the old shavings and debris.....therefore you are not adding any additional cost if you let leave it alone and drive it until it dies.
So my opinion is to change the filters, but leave the old fluid in it and drive it until it stops functioning....then pay to rebuild it.
I'm pretty sure they do.. Blackstone can analyze just about any fluid.. Give em a call and verify..
I called them, and YES they do analysis on trans fluid and can provide a clinical report on the analysis. I've got a sample collection kit in the garage, so It'll be used for the T-fluid. I'll try to get-r-dun ASAP and let post the findings later-on. Thanks for input! Keep it coming.
The amount of difference in lubricity between the old and new fluid is substantial, and the new fluid is too slick for the old clutches and bands. Yeah, it sounds goofy, but it's true.
It is goofy, and it's not true. It's an old wive's tale.
It is ALWAYS better to have new fluid. This old wive's tale hsa a small element of truth because many transmissions DO fail after changing the fluid. The reason is many people don't change the fluid until they start having trans problems. They hope that new fluid will fix it, but the trans is already destroyed. New fluid doesn't fix it, but they blame the new fluid for the failure. The trans would have died with the old fluid, too.
There is NO TRUTH to the rumor that old fluid and sludge holds the trans together.
If the trans is working fine CHANGE THE FLUID! If it has problems and old fluid, you need a rebuild whether or not you change the fluid.
__________________ Mark
Former Ford automatic transmission engineer, 1988-2007.
Now that's what this board is all about. How can you beat the advice available from a man who worked w/ Ford and these trannys specifically for years and years.
Dealing with (or rather have just dealt with) a "slippery" 5R w/ a total rebuild and new PI tc, I'd say if its got problems, the fluid may act as a Band-aid but sure won't fix it.
Amp
__________________ Spartan Diesel Tech Stage V Excursion ***...under construction...***
I had a Ford dealer service mine, I watched them drain the pan and replace the filter. Ford said that no flushing is needed. The next week I was in for a rebuild, center bushing failure at only 30K. I hope that I can get another 30K before my next fluid and rebuild. I wish I had a manual Transmission, I do not like Ford truck Auto Transmissions they always let me down.
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It is goofy, and it's not true. It's an old wive's tale.
It is ALWAYS better to have new fluid...
There is NO TRUTH to the rumor that old fluid and sludge holds the trans together...
If the trans is working fine CHANGE THE FLUID! If it has problems and old fluid, you need a rebuild whether or not you change the fluid.
Then based on that professional opinion (all other opinions values too), a flushing-I-will-go. I have to get my body back in the game first... Wrecked my neck again late last week and I'm back in the soft collar for a week or two. That, and some steroids to get a healthy spine once again... Wish me luck!