I have a 1971 460. Does anyone know what the ignition timeing and spark plug gap should be. I have an Accel super stock coil if that has to do with setting the spark plug gap differently. Any help would be appreciated.

Bob
1978 F-150 4x4

 

Hey bigred78,
If this helps, my chilton manual gives these parameters for the ignition "events" for a '71 429, here goes.(A) Plug gap is .034. (B)For point dwell it is 27 degrees for a dual diaphram vacuum advance & 29 degrees for a single diaphram model. (C)Points' gap is .021 for dual diaphram & .017 for single diaphram advance. (D)Ignition timing is 4 degrees BTDC. One word of caution when using your Super coil, you need to install a ballast resistor or you may burn up the points.
I hope this helps.

Todd
BB79RANCH

 

hi Bob, i have the official 1971 ford car shop manual (green) and here is what they have for your specs. (1) the initial ignition timing is 10 degrees for the '71. (2) dual diaphragm distributor with single points is 24-29 degrees, dwell angle with 0.021 inch point gap ( at idle speed ).... and the single diaphragm distributor with single points is 26-31 degrees, with dwell angle 0.017 inch point gap. (3) spark plug part number is BF-42. (4) and the spark plug gap is 0.032 to 0.036. these manuals have just about everything you need to know about the 429/460's and the 429cj&scj engines. have a great weekend. C.J. later........

 

Thanks CJ for the info, the Ford manuals I have only go back to '72 plus other non-Ford manuals that go back much further. The Chilton manual was close on almost everything except for the ignition timing, 4' btdc did sound a little low to me. Thanks again for the correction CJ and I'm sorry for the mis-information bigred78.

Todd
BB79RANCH

 

Thanks for the info. I tried it at 4 degrees, but it backfired through the carb and for the super coil, I have an electronic igniton. Do I have to use a ballast resister???

Bob

 

No, you shouldn't need a ballast resistor with the use of an electronic ignition.


Todd
BB79RANCH

 

I have a 71' 460 in a 79' Thunderbird that used to have a 351-M. I took the distributor and coil off the 351-M and used it on the 460. Currently I have it set at about 6' initial timing and if I hook up the vacuum advance it spark knocks, but if I leave the vacuum advace unhooked it doesn't. What should I do? Do I need a different distributor? I was told that 4 - 6 degrees was all that it should be set at for initial timing. I was going to set it back to 4 degrees, but if you said yours was backfiring through the carb. I don't want to try it. Thanks.

TBirdGuy

"Stuck with a m*par, Settle for a ch*vy, Happy with a Ford!!!!"

 

Check vacuum line that runs to distributor's advance canister and see, while engine is idling (700-800 rpm), to see if there is vacuum at canister. If you find that there is vacuum at idle within this line you need to change the location at carburetor to a vacuum port that has no vacuum at idle but pulls vacuum above 1000 rpm (timed spark port). If manifold vacuum is present at distributor's advance canister your timing will be advanced too aggressively even at idle and WILL cause spark knock and usually engine "run-on" after key is switched off. Use a vacuum gauge to test each port till you find the one you need. Holley carbs have there timed spark port on the passenger side above the idle mixture screw. What kind of carb do you have?

Todd
BB79RANCH

 

I have a Holley 750 on top right now. I'm sure I have the vacuum port on the carb. I was sure I did that. Someone told me that the advance in the distributor is probably to far, but it never did it when it was the 351-M so I don't see why it would for the 460. I guess it could be possible, but I really don't believe that to be the problem. If it is, how can I change the advance on the distributor. Thanks.

TBirdGuy

"Stuck with a m*par, Settle for a ch*vy, Happy with a Ford!!!!"

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 27-Feb-01 AT 07:11 PM (EST)[/font][p] To change the mechanical advance entails pulling everthing from the distributor's baseplate and up. To change the vacuum advance is ALOT easier. Remove vacuum hose that runs to dist. vacuum advance canister, inside the canister's port is an allen headed screw that by tightening or loosening increases or decreases the amount of advance that the vacuum diaphram inside of canister can excert on the distributor's baseplate. Choose an allen wrench that will just fit into port and will "seat" into allen screw.
Tightening screw will decrease the amount of vacuum advance, loosening will do just the opposite. Use your timing light for this, it's trial & error. I hope this helps.
One other thing, when you installed your 460 did you have to cut any wires leading to the coil or distributor? You could have inadvertantly installed the wiring to coil backwards(pos. to neg. & neg. to pos.), it will still run, but like crap! Just a thought.
Todd
BB79RANCH

 

I didn't know I could adjust the amount of vacuum pull excerted on the distributor. I will have to try it. When I installed the motor I didn't have to cut & splice anything except to wire the Tach. When I wired the tach, there was a wire already in the harness for a tach, it just wasn't running all the way into the firewall. Since I used the distributor that was in the car, I could use the EXACT same wire harnesses that connected to the coil and ignition module so I'm absolutely sure that they are both hooked up correctly. Thanks again.

TBirdGuy

"Stuck with a m*par, Settle for a ch*vy, Happy with a Ford!!!!"

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 01-Mar-01 AT 10:38 PM (EST)[/font][p] TBirdGuy

.i was told i had to recurved the distributor. because higher compression less timing. changing the springs in other words.i have swapped a 78 351m/400 distributor with a 78 460 and i am still using it 3 years later. would like to know how well did the engine swap go in to the 79 t bird. as i am doing the same but with 429 and would like to know what i might expect to go wrong with this project

 

I have a 73 (429) and the sticker info on the valve cover says; .32-.36 on the gap, .17 for the points, 14 dgr. btdc, with idle in gear at 650.

 

Hi, I was just reading that you had that Ford Shop Manual. I have a 429 CJ and have been trying to find the correct spark plug gap setting. Any info you have would be appriciated. Thanks, -Brain.

 

Welcome to FTE!

Wow, You found a thread that was 18 months old.
You know ...you could have posted a new thread regarding the Q.

Is the plug and BF-42 or a AF-32
Both are gapped at .032-.036

Timing (note spelling)
Automatics
429's go from 4* BTDC @ 600 Rpm in drive
to
10*BTDC @ 650Rpm in Drive
There is
4*
6*
10*

I either need you head casting numbers or
I need your engine code letter.
K,N,O,C,J


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