I need to get the doors off of the cab of my '47. I have seen pics of them disassembled, but last night when I struck a few blows to a punch to try to drive the upper passenger side hinge pin out, it pretended I was not there and went on about its business.

So, is there anything I need to do to remove the pins from these hinges? Or are they just being stubborn? I don't want to force it unless I know that's all I need.

Dave

 

Dave, Sometimes those pins are very hard to remove. There is a special hinge pin puller that you can purchase from some of the 'early ford parts' dealers, I've seen them in catalogs. Midwest Early Ford lists one. There are other threads in this forum that have experienced the same difficulties. Be careful you don't mushroom the end. Do a search on this forum here, maybe you can find more info. It probably will require some heat and plenty of penetration oil. Good luck

 

Thanks, I found another thread about it. I don't know why I didn't see it before.

Dave

 

So, if I am interpreting the tool right, it looks like a screw-type press. Is that about right? I was having a hard time finding on the other sites. Midwest Early Ford has a pic of it. That's nice. Thanks for the info.

Dave

 

Max Antique Auto Parts also shows one in their Early Ford Catalog. The way it looks to me it clamps over the hinge with different length pins to insert as the hinge pin is worked out. I don't suppose you could get the screws out of the door post also.

 

I might. I'm not sure. I haven't been able to try yet. I need to find my BFPS. I'll try to borrow my dad's this weekend while I'm there. Do you think there's enough meet to the cab for an impact screwdriver to work? Without damage?

Dave

 

Here's how I drove mine out. I soaked it for a couple of weeks in WD-40, let it sit, used a punch from the bottom, a big hammer, and hit the pin, upwards a few times. Then after a couple weeks, I used a propane torch, heated up the hinge a bit, and drove it out that way, but even then it wasn't easy. The pins have knurls at the top that fit into the hinge, which I'm sure makes them harder to get out. If you don't need them out right away, this works.

 

Garys way is probably the only way to get the pins out and that is probably the best way. I used an impact screwdriver on the screws on mine and one or two came loose but some wouldn't budge. I finally drilled the heads off the tapered screws until the hinges popped loose then went back later and drilled out and retapped the threaded part. They are 5/16" fine thread tapered screws. Believe me it was a nightmare but with a few hours work I finally managed to accomplish the task.

 

Well, unfortunately, I kinda do need to get the doors off soon. We are having a metalshaping get-together at the end of this month to put a floor in it, as well as whatever anybody else wants to bring. So, I need to get the doors off and the cab braced. I've been thinking about using hidden hinges anyway. I suppose I could look at this as an opportunity to be creative. On the other hand, i hate to destroy otherwise good parts just because I'm not going to use them. Oh, what to do, what to do...

Thanks!
Dave

 

Well Dave, I guess as a last resort you can take a sawsall and cut off the hinges behind the pins, if you don't plan to use them. With the doors out of the way you have more room to get the screws out. But, like you say, hate to destroy good parts, but a guy has to do what he has to do.

 

Whateg01

The impact idea sounds great, but not the one you hit with a hammer, then try to turn at the same time.
Try an air or battery powered one with a Philips bit large enough to fit the head of the screw tightly so as not to slip.
Spray some good penetrating oil on both the inside and out, then try tightening the screw a bit, then reverse it.
The fine thread will usually give, you may have to do this proceedure several times, but it usually works.
Be patient and work at it, that bit with the impact hammer in my experience a good way to experience some real pain if you happen to miss.
Keep us posted on your progress, and good luck.

 

I haven't tried it yet. The weather has been cold and I don't like the cold! Still I'm going to have to try this week sometime.

I was a bit concerned about the hammer type, since I was afraid it would distort the hinge area. I haven't tried a bit in a regular impact gun. You think that'd work, huh?

Dave

 

I would say its well worth the try, I have a battery powered impact gun 1/2 inch drive, and the nice thing about it is you have full control over it.
With the hammer type impact like I mentioned prior, you don't really get that good of results in a confined area like your working in.

Plus the impact will loosen up the rusted areas, and with the penetrating oil as an additive to help, it just may work. Once again make sure that your Philips bit is a good sized one that won't allow slipage.
I take my battery powered impact gun to junk yards with me all the time and its an amazing tool, and gets the job done in most cases.

 

Are those screws #3 or #4 Phillips? IIRC, 1/4" screws should be #3, but I need to go get another bit or 2 and don't want to buy any more than I have to. Especially since I won't be using these very often.

Dave