Some pumps wear the seal around the tappet. This allows the much narrower tappet to slide in between the lobe and the block. With the pump bolts being removed, and all lines to the pump being removed, rotate the pump back and fourth to break the seal of the rubber o ring. Now when you bump the starter, or if you turn it over by hand you will see the pump jump up. This is caused by the lobe being in a raised position exerting force onto the pump, creating upward force. With the lobe in the raised position, this is NO room for the tappet to fall into the motor. Its few and far between that the tappet falls, but when it does, its because it was improperly being removed. If it does fall into the motor, you have to pull the motor to get the pan off and remove the tappett. So I guess what I am saying is take your time, do it right, and save yourself a giant headache.

 

Trust me, getting the pump out is the easy part. Getting the banjo bolt with washers back in and started is the hard part. I finnaly had to put one of the banjo washer's on the pump with some sticky-goo stuff to hold it in place long enough to get everything started. Fat hands.

 

so fuel line and banjo/pump washers need to be purchased at ford?
any other items that i should purchase and replace while the pump is out?

thanks

 

What fuel line you talking about?

 

I would also caution you NOT to lay on top of your low pressure A/C line running to your compressor. I replaced my turbo and also had to replace the low pressure line with a recharge as well, additional 200.00. So stay off the line!

 

the 'rubber' fuel lines...in some other posts i've read, there was mention that the line from autozone-type stores were not good enough..that they wouldn't handle the higher temps being right next to the turbo.

i'm guessing about 1 ft would do? i haven't been able to see how long those lines are yet.

thanks.

 

each is about 2 to three inches. And yes, these lines take an extreme amount of heat. I am thinking that you mean the two lines from the back of the bowl to the lift pump. If you havent crawled on top of the motor and looked in between the two, its very easy to see them then.

 

yeah, i've looked at it some, saw the 2 (or 3?) lines pointing to the front..just barely. but i just wanted to find out where i need to get these.

i figured i might as well get them at ford since i have to get the gaskets for the pump there anyway.(which makes no sense why they just wouldn't include these needed gaskets with the pump).

so a foot is good then. that's probably minimum purchase anyway.

now that i think of it, i think i read a post at one point that mentioned someone(ford?) carries the lines already pre-cut........??

 

from what i've gathered, the banjo bolt washer's are not included with the new pump.

i am having trouble finding all the parts needed to replace most of the stuff related to replacing the fuel pump.

the ford dealer only had a couple small pieces of fuel line and referred me to another auto parts place, but they didn't have the banjo bolt washers and he now referred me to another place...about to call there, but would like to know if anyone has a 'general' number to call to get international parts........

i'll post if i get what i need.

thanks

 

ok...i guess i must have talked to the wrong guy at the dealership yesterday.
i just called again with parts numbers (that i got from here) and was no problem. they didn't have everything in their stock, but they will have them by the morning (about $35 for all the washers, gaskets, fuel lines).

sorry about not waiting before posting the previous.

thanks for everyone's help with this...hope to work on the fuel pump tomorrow.

hope all goes well.


(i had a oil leak also, but that has seemed to 'go away'....hmmm....i was told the oil cooler was leaking, and there was oil running down the filter...was just a lil wet above where the filter mounts...and the past couple of days, there has been no oil dripping from the filter...hmm. i dunno.)

 

Is there a list of all the part numbers (fuel lines, washer you doings, etc.) for performing the fuel pump replacement? I need to do it soon and I want to make only 1 trip to the dealer/parts store. Also is there an alternative to the factory fuel lines, ie. Parker, etc.? What sizes and what lengths would one get if choosing to go aftermarket?

Thanks

 

everything is high and dry!!!!

after cleaning out a huge mouse nest(couldn't even see it till i was taking off the canister), dealing with the stealership, and fondling the banjo bolt for a while(removing and replacing).....everything looks good.

thanks todd525 and tjbeggs for your help with my questions.

my leak after i finished replacing it....i didn't tighten the lid to the filter completely!

hopefully that pm i sent you Local399 will help.

 

I just did mine. took all the connectors off the tops of the AC and alternator-threw a rug over the engine to lay on- cut the three old fuel lines and replace 'em or fight with the hose clamps -you'r call --do this next part early- take a screwdriver and a hammer and get a purchase on the rim of the damper-lefty loosy and give it a couple taps-don't poke a hole in it-you can spin it off-don't lose the copper washer-then you can get you're socket and fat hand in from the pass. side-also take off the back engine lift ring-some grease helps get the crush washers to behave-righty tighty everything good get to the front bottom hose clamp first-you might have to take the bolts outa the filter housing to get a little wiggle room-good luck Todd

 

I just replaced my fuel pump and if it starts leaking again, I am going this route:
http://members.localnet.com/~boys3/