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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2008, 09:29 AM
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how do I suggest to my dealer things that should be looking for ( if they have not yet) without being a KIA or PITA ( know it all or pain in the a$$). They are the experts but, its my truck and my dime but the bill can be painful or they can work with you? catch my drift!!
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2008, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetmagnum
Here is a question. If it is the HPOP tube should it be replaced or just fixed with this "bracket"
Good question. I have no idea why this tube would need to be supported and why it would cause a failure. It is by no means a quick fix (possible 2 days at the shop plus the cost if not within the warrenty period). I can only hope that the dealership replaced the tube and supported it while they had it. So far, truck runs great again.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2008, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green_Monster
how do I suggest to my dealer things that should be looking for ( if they have not yet) without being a KIA or PITA ( know it all or pain in the a$$). They are the experts but, its my truck and my dime but the bill can be painful or they can work with you? catch my drift!!
Ask to talk to the tech. Ask him what he's done and ruled out. Suggest to him that there are known problems with a certain year model engine and ask him if he would address your concerns since it's YOUR DIME he's working on. They may or may not be experts (hopefully they are). An experienced and knowledgeable tech can make a HUGE difference in a quality repair and a huge headache (and bill).
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2008, 03:19 PM
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ok here is the skinny

After 2 days at the dealer and no answers I did some research at the 6.0 bible page and went through the hard start and performance diagnostics check list. i saw that the fuel pup inlet restriction test was 1/2 way through ( never heard my dealer mention that) so I called and specifically asked what tests had been done got a gray area answer. Asked about theis test and.............................

Voila!! 1 hour later my truck is being repaired - diagnosis - bad fuel pump and it needed and updated wire harness.

I understand the need to check the computer and go through those steps but It seems as if it took way to long to diagnose this problem and I even asked/pointed this out on the repair order when I brought it in for the second time in 1 week.

How much does the fuel pump assembly usually go for anyways and what is the mitchell R&R time?

hey I am glad it is fixed but sometimes i geuss one wonders?

yeah i know long post sorry.... needed to vent over my $600+ fuel pump repair
(although if it seems high I may haggle )
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2008, 04:25 PM
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ok ......just heard from the dealer on my truck thats been there for three days.
Service guy said they replaced 2 injectors and now they are looking at a icp issue.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2008, 04:35 PM
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I spoke to my dealer again asking some questions about the bill ( as i will be picking it up after hours) and got the break down $300 for parts and $325 for labor and they already paid for my rental car ( not part the service or part of any warranty)

I feel a hell of a lot better now especially knowing that I truly found a dealer that goes the extra mile for there customers.

Good luck ya'll
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2008, 10:18 AM
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Verdict Is In

Truck runs perfect now. Almost like power has been "refreshed" in the engine.

work order reads:

"customer states vehicle wouldnt start when hot stumbles when driving"

found crank no start. eec tested retrived codes p2285 icp sensor low. p2290 icp too low and p0284 cyl 8 contribution. check oasis tsb 06-17-6 hp system diag followed pced updated ppt 10 e and f. pid monitor icp during cranking found 25psi monitor icp at 84.75%. remove cac hose. turbo and ipr for high pressure oil pump cover. upon removal of ipr found ipr screen covered in metal drebis and sucked in. replaced high pressure oil pump and ipr. replaced snap fitting as per tsb 06-17-6 after inspection. reassembled let run checked for oil leaks none found road test truck runs rough. check engine light on again. eec test po284 cyl 8 contribution after several miles of driving. relative compression pass fuel pressure pass at 55psi. inj electrical self test pass remove drivers side valve cover remove injector and inspect visually ok. replace with new. reassemble clear code. let run roadtest runs fine repower balance was -60 on ids now 0. truck runs fine at this time.

-The only comment that worries me is the "metal debris"
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2008, 07:05 PM
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got mine back friday from dealer 3 weeks later and $2400.00 to replace HPOP and all the gaskets and cleaned the turbo but what the hay it runs great better than brand new I will have ex. war. next time 03 6.0 sdcrew 4x4 ant going to woop me
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2008, 10:52 PM
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JETMAGNUM sOUNDS LIKE A FILTER PROB
i LIVE IN NORTHERN MN AND HAVE HAD A FEW PROB LIKE THAT, IF YOU DONT GET NUMBER 1 FUEL YOU WILL HAVE PROBS IN THE COLD, AND ONCE THE DIESEL GEL IT LEAVES A WAX RESIDUE IN THE FILTER AND PLUGS THEM TIGHT CAUSING THE LOSS IN PRESSURE. I SUGGEST CHANGING BOTH FILTERS (FRAME AND MOTOR CANASTER). anOTHER HIT IS WHEN IT GETS COLD MAKE SURE TO ADD SOME DIESEL 911 (IT PREVENT GELING AND A CETANE BOOST) HOPEFULLY THIS WILL HELP
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2008, 10:05 AM
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Wow. Thanks But Did You Read Any Of The Other Posts?
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2008, 07:47 PM
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When your HP pump went it scattered debris clogging the IPR screen. Maybe Bowtiehater will chime in since he works on these everyday...
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2008, 08:09 AM
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Can the HP pump go bad from extreme cold temps -15 and belowif a block heater is not used?you out there BOWTIEHATER?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2008, 06:50 PM
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no I don't thank so but the oil may be to thick to flow threw like it's suppose to. mine went out from mileage it just would lock up when it got warm
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