No need to plane anything on the head..I didn't need to mess with the engine either..If a stud is broken and you aren't a mechanic I would be careful and cautious not to mess it up.
This job can be tricky..

Dick

 

Ya I agree it's a tricky one... Not just that but a pain in the *** to do in my opinion... Not sure if any are broke haven't got that good of a look at it yet... And I'm not an actual machanic... But I'm a machanic for the navy... And besides that I'm a pretty smart cookie when it comes to that stuff...

 

Am I correct that you welded a nut onto the broken studs?? Done before on some heavier farm equipement.... didn't know how safe it was to do on the aluminum heads.... then again exhaust gases are HOT!!!

Thanks,
Robert

 

I am taking the job on right now, it is suggested to remove the starter if your working on the passenger side, and the inner fender well, my friends studs are toast, the 12 mill nut is not longer 12 mill, so I will proceed to cut the nut to relieve some pressure, and if the studs break off, you can buy a special adapter plate to fit over the broken stud, it has a guide that allowes you to drill DC of the stud and use an easy out. This is a little time consuming but its cheaper then going to the ford dealership or another shop. For the record I do not know why you would have to machine the head where the exhaust manifold goes, in our case the manifold itself rusted out and as long as you remove the exhaust mainfold and dress the area with a scotch brite pad I dont see the problem with the gasket sealing properly.