Hi guys,

Old manifolds are warped and leaking.. few broken bolts.

I got the back bolts out.. am workign at the middles now.. I definately am going to use a torche for the rest.. they are EXTREMELY rusted..

However I have NO idea how to get the front bolts. The frame is right there! I haven't even gotten the heat shield off of the passenter side.

Underneath is a HUGE k-member with zero access... from the engine bay is no good either cause there is no room and too much crap.

I am lost.

How do I do it? I have no idea how I'm supposed to get the wrench in between the bolt and the fram for the second tube from the front.

THanks.

- Keith

 

It sounds like you will need to undo the front motor mount bolts, remove the carb, and lift the engine using a floor jack from underneath, or engine hoist from above. If it is a motorhome with a van front clip you may not be able to get it very high, but any room will help. Make sure you are using good headers, the best gaskets, and Stage 8 locking fasteners aren't a bad idea either. Header wrap cuts down on extra heat, unless you live somewhere wet, the wrap will rust the headers out quickly.

 

Man that sucks.

I'm still not sure how I'm going to get in there.. There seems to be no room from every angle.. Perhaps once I jack it up some it will be a little more clear.

Carb needs to be rebuilt anyway so perhaps now is a good time.

 

I know it sounds bad to have to remove everything short of pulling the engine, but if you are going to have to heat the other bolts and they are that rusted, you might want to remove everything in your way and jack it up or try and take it out. Could be less stressful that way???
Chuck
78 Ext.Cab Short-bed
Headers,dual 2.5in pipes,750 Holly,roller timing set,MSD spark box on the way,it's a work-a-holic

 

I agree with Chuck. If you have a place to do it, it's time to pull the engine.

 

If that engine is in a standard van chassis, he may have to pull the entire front clip out of the way, or yank the intake to get the engine out( and still have to take the grill, air condenser, and core support top out of the way). I recently did an engine swap on my 85 E-150( 302 to a home built HP 351w using 351w BBK mustang swap headers and other goodies. Even though the 460 is a great engine, I am thoroughly convinced that Ford should not have offered it as an option in the Econoline without some major reworking to the doghouse and cowl area, I could only run a 4-inch filter with the RPM intake and a 1-inch open spacer, and I would not reccommend trying to play board games on top of the filter, I can barely squeeze my hand in there to tighten the filter down) and I could not install the 351 with the performer RPM intake on, or I could have removed the core support and the front bumper to get it in with the intake in place. The radiator cap solution also sounds really good....

 

I have a warehouse to work in.. plenty of room.. but I do NOT want to remove the engine.

I will give it a shot this weekend and let you guys know how it goes.

I'm still not sure how I am supposed to reach the front bolts though.

Wish me luck, I am going to need it.

 

Ok.. A friend and I attempted the removal of the stock manifolds today. I used a torch to heat up the bolts and such red hot.. they still wouldn't budge.

I can't even get the AIR tubes off.

I looked at the front clip, and all the stuff that is on top of the engine and in front of it.. and I have NO idea how I'm supposed to remove the engine.

Monday I'm going to call some shops for quotes on the header intall. At this point, it seems very impossible. *sigh*

What do you guys think is reasonable for a header install on a 87 ford Class C with the 460BB?

 

If you haven't done this before... don't. I do it regularly & did my motorhome in about 6 hours, front clip & all(had help). I did one some time back using some aluminum plate & drill guides & made a tool to drill them out. There's no good way to do this unless you know someone that is an AWSOME certified welder. He can blow them out... maybe. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet & go the long way.

 

Back from the dead..

I'm not too eager to spend $1500+ for a dang header swap when I can swap headers and pull smaller engines from cars.

Can I just lift the entire front of the RV off of the engine/cradle assembly?

No matter what the engine has to be pulled to do headers.

Whats the easiest way?

 

If you have a van front end, you need to pull the grill and rad support assembly. Once this is done the entire engine bay will be opened up to you. Pulling the engine is not a big deal after this step.


Nick from the frozen north
1974 F-250 4X4
soon to be 429
dana 60 front and rear

 

Mine is a class "C" & it's not that hard to get at with the dog house off & the front end off. Hard thing is the middle cylinders. I'm used to big engines in small cars so for me it's not too bad, it requires patience. If you know someone in the aircraft business or go to some pawn shops you can get a small drill with no chuck, the drill bit screws on. It's a 90 degree drill you can use in tight spaces, less than 3". My headers went on from the top. Had a muffler shop run the exhaust, couple of hundred. If this really gets to the point of pulling out your hair I can scare something up for you to use to drill them, if you find a drill. I feel for you trying to do this, it's a tough job. Sounds like after the heat didn't work, it's time to drill. Feel free to e-mail me & we can swap pics. The thing that makes yours so hard is all the pollution control & fuel systems. Mines all gone.