Fuel bowl Heater element Replacement
#1
#3
Lou, not hard at all. Ill walk you through it.
1. drain fuel bowl.
2. unplug fuel bowl heater from back of fuel bowl
3. remove filter
4. using a T-20 torx driver unscrew the two screws holding the plate down. it will have a little pressure against it as the stand pipe has a spring inside it, and will be pushing up.
5. unplug single connection on inside of fuel bowl.
6. do the reverse of all said above for replacement.
1. drain fuel bowl.
2. unplug fuel bowl heater from back of fuel bowl
3. remove filter
4. using a T-20 torx driver unscrew the two screws holding the plate down. it will have a little pressure against it as the stand pipe has a spring inside it, and will be pushing up.
5. unplug single connection on inside of fuel bowl.
6. do the reverse of all said above for replacement.
#6
There are 2 styles. the pics are of the newer one. if you have the older style you will see a 3/4 inch "nut" cast into the bottom of the black plastic standpipe,and you will not have the 2 torx headed screws. that stand pipe it LEFT HAND thread. While cleaning, check the screen that covers the port going to the fuel pressur regulator. they will get clogged and restrict flow and affect preformance. Barney
#7
I pulled my bowl heater when I did my last filter swap. Be careful with those brass looking tack welds on the element, they pull up easily. I priced out a new one and it is OEM only for almost 200 bones... I put my back together very carefully and ohm'd it out to make sure there wasn't an open, has been working fine.
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#8
#9
Hey Lou, lets try unplugging the heater from the bowl,(connection on the back of fuel bowl) and then start truck, if it does not blow the fuse again then it is the one inside the bowl. And to be truthful that is the only one I know of off the top of my head. there is a heated fuel mixing chamber in the tank, but it has no elctrical parts in side.
I would happily send you my in bowl heater, no charge, but it has 250K mile worth of fuel on it and the solders are very brittle. I do not think it would make the trip to NY.
I would happily send you my in bowl heater, no charge, but it has 250K mile worth of fuel on it and the solders are very brittle. I do not think it would make the trip to NY.
#10
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#14
I'm of the opinion the fuel bowl heater is worthless. It will only work with the key on and only heat the fuel in the bowl. Who is going to let the truck sit with the key on and engine off so the fuel in the bowl doesn't gel. If they did it wouldn't take long for the heater to drain batts to the point of not being able to start. If your truck sits in temps cold enough to gel the fuel in the bowl then the fuel in the fuel line all the way back to the tank is gelled. The fuel in the bottom of the tank where the fuel pick up is will also be gelled.
Next time I change the fuel filter I will probably remove it. It will make it easier to clean out the bowl if need be. In the meantime I have the connector unplugged so I don't have to worry about the element shorting out and blowing the PCM fuse.
Don't worry about if it will work or not, just remove it or disconnect it.
I'm sure some will disagree with me but that's my opinion and I will stick to it.
Next time I change the fuel filter I will probably remove it. It will make it easier to clean out the bowl if need be. In the meantime I have the connector unplugged so I don't have to worry about the element shorting out and blowing the PCM fuse.
Don't worry about if it will work or not, just remove it or disconnect it.
I'm sure some will disagree with me but that's my opinion and I will stick to it.
#15
I was considering doing this heater check and possible replacement on my truck as well but when I pulled the filter to change it out with a new one my bowl heater looks nothing like that. It looks more like a 1/4" metal tube that plugs into the heater port and spirals around the center post. No plate with a wire soldered to it. Is that the older one?