I've looked through the Chiltons and Haynes manuals and they really seem to skip over the subject. Has anyone changed the valve seals on a 460 (preferrably on a similar year 460) with the engine/heads still in the vehicle? Every picture I've seen had the heads out of the vehicle.

Can anyone tell me what tools I'll need and what the procedure is? I'll probably try this over the weekend. Damn..... they sure do put a TON of crap in the way of getting to the valve covers!

Matt

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Dec-02 AT 01:21 PM (EST)]Matt,

I did this recently on an `85 460. I do not know if there is any difference between my `85 and your `88.

Anyway this is what is involved with changing the valve seals:

Remove valve cover (and all the stuff necessary to get it off).

Remove all plugs from the side of the motor you are working on.

Start at front of motor and remove the two rocker arms and keep track as to which location they each go. I left the push rods in place.

Install (screw in) the rubber tube used with your compression tester in the first spark plug hole (leave the dial part of tester in your toolbox).

Connect air compressor with at least 100 psi to the quick end of the hose to pressurize the cylinder to keep valves from dropping down into the cylinder. The motor will rotate some as each cylinder is pressurized due to the piston moving to the bottom of its stroke. Having manual trans in gear and parking brake set tight can minimize the rotation, but as long as you are out of the way of the fan and the like it is no big deal.

Using a screw type valve spring compressor (has arms that reach down the outside of the valve spring and hook under the coils and compresses spring as you screw the top handle down).

The top hat to the spring and the keepers will most likely stay joined and will need a little rap from a soft mallet to free them from each other. Once done use a pencil type magnet to take the two keepers out.

Once keepers are out simply lift compressed spring off valve stem. No need to take compressor off spring.

Slide old seal off valve stem. This can be a little tough since it is a tight fit. I used a pair of mid-sized channel lock pliers to grab it and slide it off the stem but you must be very careful to not ding the valve stem with a slip of the pliers.

Oil up new seal and start over the stem. It will most likely stop at the keeper ridges in the stem. Use the smallest deem socket that will fit over the stem and gently tap the new seal down. It should not take much tapping.

Re-assemble in reverse order of disassembly. One note on this, my Haynes manual called for very high torque spec on the valve cover bolts. They only need about 20 – 22 in lbs before the cover starts to distort. If it does it will leak. Use some blue lock tight or other similar product (designed for disassembly) to keep the valve cover bolts from backing out. If your valve covers are already distorted take the time to get them back into shape.

Hope this helps and feel free to ask any questions.

Regards,

Mark

 

There is a way to do all 16 valves with only 3 positions made to the crankshaft.

There used to be a tech articles here but it hasn't been avaialble for a while.

You can look up how to change valve springs in 3 positions as this will provide access to the seals.


Dennis

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>Matt,
>
>I did this recently on an `85 460. I do not know if there
>is any difference between my `85 and your `88.

I doubt there is much difference. The main thing that LOOKS like a pain is getting all the stuff out of the way to get to the valve covers. How long did this procedure take? From the sounds of it, it could be done in an afternoon.

Matt

 

Matt,

Yes, I think you could do it in an afternoon. My truck had lots of air pump and other emissions stuff that has already been permanently removed so that saved me some time when I did the seals. Also, you can do one side at a time and not really duplicate much of the work.

One of my main reasons for doing the work was to fix heavy leaks from the valve cover gaskets. It seems that all prior attempts to fix the leaks were to simply tighen the valve covers bolts more. The covers were very distorted and so I took my time to carefully hammer them out straight. My job would have been completed much sooner without having to straighten the covers.

Good luck,

Mark