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#16
02-29-2008, 08:44 PM
Part 2 of 3 - Toyota Steering Box article -
General Information on the Toyota Steering Box Swap
The Toyota box is similar in size, mounting location, and function to the OEM 1948-1960 box, so clearance issues are few. Using the 1953-1956 F-100 kit from a vendor like Mid-Fifty, Sacramento Vintage Ford, No Limit Engineering, and others, this bolt in swap can be done in as little as 4 hours. With small modifications the same kits can be used on the F-1 series trucks and the F-100 series from the 1957-1960 era trucks as well.
· The frame mounting holes on non-1953/1956 trucks will need to be redrilled to match the OEM 1953-1956 3-bolt mount pattern
· The drag link ball on the F-1 truck series steering arm will need to be replaced with the larger 1953-1956 ball
· The 1953-1956 drag link must be used
The Toyota swap can be used with a slightly modified OEM steering column and shaft or with any aftermarket or salvage column in the 30 to 32 inch length range. The only downside with using the original column is you will lose the horn button function in the steering wheel so a separate horn button switch will need to be added elsewhere.
Going with the manual Toyota box, you get a more modern box that is easier to get repaired at 8:00 p.m. on a Tuesday night in East Armpit, Iowa. Going with the power Toyota box gives you that plus the added driving enjoyment of power steering. The power steering upgrade also gives you quicker steering. Ford F-1/F-100 uses a 24:1 ratio (six turns lock to lock) versus Toyota’s ratio of 19:1 (4.75 turns lock to lock). If you need to rationalize going with the Toyota box just say to yourself “safety improvements are not hotrod modifications.”
Members of the 1948-1960 FTE Forum are often designated as “Lightsiders” or “Darksiders”, depending on how much they have modified and/or hot-rodded their trucks. The Toyota steering box modification would move you farther from the ranks of a “Lightsider” and close to the being a “Darksider”, but unless someone crawls under your truck, who’s to know? Based upon feedback from those that have done the swap, you’ll wish you’d done it sooner! The real beauty of the Toyota swap (almost everyone that’s done it has stressed this) is the simplicity of the work.
There is some literature available on this modification/enhancement. Bonusbuilt.com deals with it to a certain degree and Classic Performance Products also has a tech article on it. This article is based upon a combination of
· Information from the numerous threads in the 1948-1960 FTE Truck Forum covering the installation
· Some direct communication with Forum members to clarify specific issues not covered in the Forum threads
· Considerable input from one forum member that did the installation himself
Caveats
· You may experience some clearance issues if you’re running a big block engine or if you have certain rear outlet headers/exhaust manifolds. The modification can still be done, but you’ll have to go through the frame in another location. Mid-Fifty sells a longer drag link (1.5” longer) for use with axles that have been moved forward. This part may help or a certified welder could modify your stock drag link. Moving the steering box can frequently cause some difficult to resolve issues with your steering geometry. This raises some safety concerns that are beyond the scope of this article. Please consult with an expert before choosing this route. A better alternative would be to resolve the clearance issues with different headers or offset placement of the engine.
· The spline count on the manual Toyota steering box Pitman arm shaft is different from the original Ford Pitman arm. If you’re using the Toyota power steering box, several of the vendors mentioned in this article sell a modified Pitman arm to save you from modifying your own. To use the manual box, the same mount bracket can be used, but a custom conversion Pitman arm will need to be fabricated as no one currently sells a pre-made one.
There is an excellent thread in the 1948-1960 truck forum which discusses creating your own Pitman arm by combining the Toyota and the Ford arms (Pitman Arm Thread). This thread contains directions, tips, and advise from several different members that have done it themselves. In addition, forum member Walston has a pictorial of how to create one yourself in his gallery (Pitman Arm Pictorial). If you make your own, bear in mind that your life and the lives of others depend upon how well it’s made and welded together. At least ensure that a certified welder does all the necessary welding in making this Pitman arm.
General Information on the Toyota Steering Box Swap
The Toyota box is similar in size, mounting location, and function to the OEM 1948-1960 box, so clearance issues are few. Using the 1953-1956 F-100 kit from a vendor like Mid-Fifty, Sacramento Vintage Ford, No Limit Engineering, and others, this bolt in swap can be done in as little as 4 hours. With small modifications the same kits can be used on the F-1 series trucks and the F-100 series from the 1957-1960 era trucks as well.
· The frame mounting holes on non-1953/1956 trucks will need to be redrilled to match the OEM 1953-1956 3-bolt mount pattern
· The drag link ball on the F-1 truck series steering arm will need to be replaced with the larger 1953-1956 ball
· The 1953-1956 drag link must be used
The Toyota swap can be used with a slightly modified OEM steering column and shaft or with any aftermarket or salvage column in the 30 to 32 inch length range. The only downside with using the original column is you will lose the horn button function in the steering wheel so a separate horn button switch will need to be added elsewhere.
Going with the manual Toyota box, you get a more modern box that is easier to get repaired at 8:00 p.m. on a Tuesday night in East Armpit, Iowa. Going with the power Toyota box gives you that plus the added driving enjoyment of power steering. The power steering upgrade also gives you quicker steering. Ford F-1/F-100 uses a 24:1 ratio (six turns lock to lock) versus Toyota’s ratio of 19:1 (4.75 turns lock to lock). If you need to rationalize going with the Toyota box just say to yourself “safety improvements are not hotrod modifications.”
Members of the 1948-1960 FTE Forum are often designated as “Lightsiders” or “Darksiders”, depending on how much they have modified and/or hot-rodded their trucks. The Toyota steering box modification would move you farther from the ranks of a “Lightsider” and close to the being a “Darksider”, but unless someone crawls under your truck, who’s to know? Based upon feedback from those that have done the swap, you’ll wish you’d done it sooner! The real beauty of the Toyota swap (almost everyone that’s done it has stressed this) is the simplicity of the work.
There is some literature available on this modification/enhancement. Bonusbuilt.com deals with it to a certain degree and Classic Performance Products also has a tech article on it. This article is based upon a combination of
· Information from the numerous threads in the 1948-1960 FTE Truck Forum covering the installation
· Some direct communication with Forum members to clarify specific issues not covered in the Forum threads
· Considerable input from one forum member that did the installation himself
Caveats
· You may experience some clearance issues if you’re running a big block engine or if you have certain rear outlet headers/exhaust manifolds. The modification can still be done, but you’ll have to go through the frame in another location. Mid-Fifty sells a longer drag link (1.5” longer) for use with axles that have been moved forward. This part may help or a certified welder could modify your stock drag link. Moving the steering box can frequently cause some difficult to resolve issues with your steering geometry. This raises some safety concerns that are beyond the scope of this article. Please consult with an expert before choosing this route. A better alternative would be to resolve the clearance issues with different headers or offset placement of the engine.
· The spline count on the manual Toyota steering box Pitman arm shaft is different from the original Ford Pitman arm. If you’re using the Toyota power steering box, several of the vendors mentioned in this article sell a modified Pitman arm to save you from modifying your own. To use the manual box, the same mount bracket can be used, but a custom conversion Pitman arm will need to be fabricated as no one currently sells a pre-made one.
There is an excellent thread in the 1948-1960 truck forum which discusses creating your own Pitman arm by combining the Toyota and the Ford arms (Pitman Arm Thread). This thread contains directions, tips, and advise from several different members that have done it themselves. In addition, forum member Walston has a pictorial of how to create one yourself in his gallery (Pitman Arm Pictorial). If you make your own, bear in mind that your life and the lives of others depend upon how well it’s made and welded together. At least ensure that a certified welder does all the necessary welding in making this Pitman arm.
#17
02-29-2008, 08:46 PM
Part 3 of 3 - Toyota Steering Box article -
Wally (Walston) has a fairly good pictorial step by step on the Toyota steering box Pitman arm in his gallery.
(Photo Courtesy Wally Kandel)
The “How-To”
First decide upon whether you want manual or power steering. Power steering means you’ll need to mount a power steering pump on your engine and run hoses to the steering box. Going with a manual box means you avoid that aspect of the swap, but will need to fabricate your own Pitman arm.
Complete List of Components and Parts to do the Job
· A Toyota 4x4 power/manual steering box. Head off to your friendly neighborhood wrecking yard and find yourself a good 79 to early 84 Toyota 4x4 pickup. For a manual box, grab the manual box and the Pitman arm. For a power box, grab the power box, the hoses running from the pump to the box and maybe the Pitman arm. You can also check your local penny-saver newspaper for someone parting out a suitable donor vehicle.
The Toyota 4x4 Steering Box You Want.
(Photo Courtesy Ron Goldberg)
· A Pitman arm to fit the Toyota sector shaft and the Ford drag link
o To be fabricated for a manual steering box
o To be fabricated or purchased for a power steering box
· A new Toyota Pitman arm/sector shaft nut (unless you saved the old one when taking the Toyota box off the donor)
· A U-joint to connect the steering column to the Toyota box.
o In the Mid-Fifty kit, this is Borgeson part number U15N-7DDx730 and fits ONLY a modified OEM shaft or aftermarket “DD” shaft.
o Columns with shafts other than the modified OEM or aftermarket “DD” types mentioned above will likely require a different U-joint.
· A new, solid heavy-duty tie rod
· A power steering hose set to match the steering box and the pump fittings. You may need to have this custom made.
· A power steering pump and bracket to fit your engine.
· An auxiliary horn button for dash mounting if you are using the stock column.
· A kit to adapt the steering box to your frame.
o Mid-Fifty sells one for about $250 and it seems to be one of the best quality of the alternatives out there. The kit includes a very sturdy mount bracket, a hybrid Pitman arm (from Toyota PS to Ford), a new sector shaft nut, plus optional parts depending on which kit is selected (see catalog for specific components included in each).
The Mid-Fifty Toyota Conversion Kit
(Photo Courtesy Roger Hughes)
· You can use the stock steering column but if you do, you’ll need to make or buy (Mid-Fifty or No Limit Engineering) a lower shaft bushing to keep the shaft centered in the column housing. You’ll also need a lower column to floor mount.
Step-By-Step Procedure
To make it easier to proceed, you might wish to remove your inner fender. This is not mandatory but it does make it easier to get in there.
1. Remove the steering column.
a. Saw through the steering column just above the box. The stock steering shaft goes all the way into, and is part of, the internals of the steering box so you need to cut it off.
b. Disconnect the shift linkage from the column if you have a column shift.
c. Unbolt the column drop at the dashboard.
d. Remove the column from inside the cab (you’ll need to unscrew at least ½ the inspection plate from the floor to clear the shift arms if you have a column shift).
2. If you plan to reuse your stock steering column, follow the directions in the kit to perform the following procedures.
a. Shorten the housing.
b. Install the centering bushing.
c. Match your shaft to the Toyota Borgeson joint you will use for a connection. This will likely involve grinding two flats on your steering shaft to copy the DD design used with most popular Borgeson joints. You may have to make other adjustments if you are using a different joint.
3. Open up the sector shaft hole in your frame a wee bit per the instructions in the kit. If you are not using a kit, make the hole large enough so that the sector shaft clears the frame with the steering linkage in all positions.
4. Bolt the Toyota box to the bracket making sure to torque all bolts to 60 ft/lbs.
5. Install the steering box and bracket assembly with the long end of the bracket pointing towards the bottom and then poke the sector shaft through the original hole in the frame. Bolt the steering box and bracket to the frame. If the holes are a bit off, break out that die grinder you’re so good with. If the mount does not want to go inside the frame you may have to straighten one or both frame flanges until it slips into place.
6. Center the sector shaft.
a. Turn the shaft all the way in one direction.
b. While counting the revolutions, turn the sector shaft all the way in the opposite direction.
c. Now turn the sector shaft exactly half way back the other way so it is centered.
d. At the risk of being ****, do this about three times just to be completely sure you got it centered.
7. Attach the modified Pitman arm to the centered sector shaft so the Pitman arm is perpendicular to the ground. Torque the fastener to 110 ft/lbs.
8. Re-attach the steering column.
a. Slide the column back through the firewall.
b. Attach the steering shaft to the Toyota box using the universal joint you got from Mid-Fifty or whomever.
c. Reattach the column drop at the dashboard.
d. Reinstall the column inspection plate at the floorboard.
e. Reconnect the shift linkage if you have a column shift.
9. Reconnect the stock drag link at the lower end of the Pitman arm.
10. If you decided to go with the power steering box, then you need to install the pump assembly on the engine and run the hoses between it and the pump. The port on the steering box closest to the frame is the high pressure or input line. The port closer to the engine is the output or low pressure line.
11. Wire in your new horn and “Bob’s yer Uncle”.
12. Crack open a cold barley and hops based libation and, celebrate a job well done.
Wally (Walston) has a fairly good pictorial step by step on the Toyota steering box Pitman arm in his gallery.
(Photo Courtesy Wally Kandel)
The “How-To”
First decide upon whether you want manual or power steering. Power steering means you’ll need to mount a power steering pump on your engine and run hoses to the steering box. Going with a manual box means you avoid that aspect of the swap, but will need to fabricate your own Pitman arm.
Complete List of Components and Parts to do the Job
· A Toyota 4x4 power/manual steering box. Head off to your friendly neighborhood wrecking yard and find yourself a good 79 to early 84 Toyota 4x4 pickup. For a manual box, grab the manual box and the Pitman arm. For a power box, grab the power box, the hoses running from the pump to the box and maybe the Pitman arm. You can also check your local penny-saver newspaper for someone parting out a suitable donor vehicle.
The Toyota 4x4 Steering Box You Want.
(Photo Courtesy Ron Goldberg)
· A Pitman arm to fit the Toyota sector shaft and the Ford drag link
o To be fabricated for a manual steering box
o To be fabricated or purchased for a power steering box
· A new Toyota Pitman arm/sector shaft nut (unless you saved the old one when taking the Toyota box off the donor)
· A U-joint to connect the steering column to the Toyota box.
o In the Mid-Fifty kit, this is Borgeson part number U15N-7DDx730 and fits ONLY a modified OEM shaft or aftermarket “DD” shaft.
o Columns with shafts other than the modified OEM or aftermarket “DD” types mentioned above will likely require a different U-joint.
· A new, solid heavy-duty tie rod
· A power steering hose set to match the steering box and the pump fittings. You may need to have this custom made.
· A power steering pump and bracket to fit your engine.
· An auxiliary horn button for dash mounting if you are using the stock column.
· A kit to adapt the steering box to your frame.
o Mid-Fifty sells one for about $250 and it seems to be one of the best quality of the alternatives out there. The kit includes a very sturdy mount bracket, a hybrid Pitman arm (from Toyota PS to Ford), a new sector shaft nut, plus optional parts depending on which kit is selected (see catalog for specific components included in each).
The Mid-Fifty Toyota Conversion Kit
(Photo Courtesy Roger Hughes)
· You can use the stock steering column but if you do, you’ll need to make or buy (Mid-Fifty or No Limit Engineering) a lower shaft bushing to keep the shaft centered in the column housing. You’ll also need a lower column to floor mount.
Step-By-Step Procedure
To make it easier to proceed, you might wish to remove your inner fender. This is not mandatory but it does make it easier to get in there.
1. Remove the steering column.
a. Saw through the steering column just above the box. The stock steering shaft goes all the way into, and is part of, the internals of the steering box so you need to cut it off.
b. Disconnect the shift linkage from the column if you have a column shift.
c. Unbolt the column drop at the dashboard.
d. Remove the column from inside the cab (you’ll need to unscrew at least ½ the inspection plate from the floor to clear the shift arms if you have a column shift).
2. If you plan to reuse your stock steering column, follow the directions in the kit to perform the following procedures.
a. Shorten the housing.
b. Install the centering bushing.
c. Match your shaft to the Toyota Borgeson joint you will use for a connection. This will likely involve grinding two flats on your steering shaft to copy the DD design used with most popular Borgeson joints. You may have to make other adjustments if you are using a different joint.
3. Open up the sector shaft hole in your frame a wee bit per the instructions in the kit. If you are not using a kit, make the hole large enough so that the sector shaft clears the frame with the steering linkage in all positions.
4. Bolt the Toyota box to the bracket making sure to torque all bolts to 60 ft/lbs.
5. Install the steering box and bracket assembly with the long end of the bracket pointing towards the bottom and then poke the sector shaft through the original hole in the frame. Bolt the steering box and bracket to the frame. If the holes are a bit off, break out that die grinder you’re so good with. If the mount does not want to go inside the frame you may have to straighten one or both frame flanges until it slips into place.
6. Center the sector shaft.
a. Turn the shaft all the way in one direction.
b. While counting the revolutions, turn the sector shaft all the way in the opposite direction.
c. Now turn the sector shaft exactly half way back the other way so it is centered.
d. At the risk of being ****, do this about three times just to be completely sure you got it centered.
7. Attach the modified Pitman arm to the centered sector shaft so the Pitman arm is perpendicular to the ground. Torque the fastener to 110 ft/lbs.
8. Re-attach the steering column.
a. Slide the column back through the firewall.
b. Attach the steering shaft to the Toyota box using the universal joint you got from Mid-Fifty or whomever.
c. Reattach the column drop at the dashboard.
d. Reinstall the column inspection plate at the floorboard.
e. Reconnect the shift linkage if you have a column shift.
9. Reconnect the stock drag link at the lower end of the Pitman arm.
10. If you decided to go with the power steering box, then you need to install the pump assembly on the engine and run the hoses between it and the pump. The port on the steering box closest to the frame is the high pressure or input line. The port closer to the engine is the output or low pressure line.
11. Wire in your new horn and “Bob’s yer Uncle”.
12. Crack open a cold barley and hops based libation and, celebrate a job well done.
#18
02-29-2008, 08:49 PM
Part 4 of 3 - Toyota Steering Box article -
For a nearly blow-by-blow account of one of the author’s day’s spent doing the install, check out this thread. It didn’t go quite as smoothly or as quickly as the discussion above would suggest. A little worse than changing your old rear leaf spring pins, but no where near as bad as a root canal.
NOTES:
· If you want to ease into this – go with the Toyota manual box initially. Should you later decide you want power steering, the Toyota boxes interchange easily except for the different Pitman arm.
· It has been mentioned that the early 84 Toyota box is useable and the later one is not. Here’s how you tell the difference.
o The good box has 4 mounting ears – 2 on each side of the Pitman shaft (see the picture above).
o The wrong one is a long skinny bugger. When you’ve seen both, you’ll understand.
· You will have to do a wee bit of grinding on the box housing to allow it to sit flat against your frame rail. Again, when you look at the box, you’ll easily understand what’s required.
· You may want to shop around for the kit parts a bit
o Mid-Fifty doesn’t have the Pitman arm for the 1957-1960 trucks, but No Limit Engineering does.
o No Limit Engineering has a bearing/sleeve/coupler kit to attach the stock column to the Toyota box.
o The opinion of the group is that the Mid-Fifty kit has the best box-to-frame bracket and other parts.
o Classic Performance Products has pretty much everything.
o Mid-Fifty has the rubber power steering hose set with adapters for most pumps.
o Gotta Show Products has braided SS hose sets with their own low profile fittings if you want stainless steel, need a custom length hose, or run into clearance issues with the return line hose.
· There is a new electric remote power steering pump available if you can’t, or don’t want to, install an engine driven pump. No one in the 1948-1960 Truck Forum has any experience with it, so you’re on your own.
· JobLot Automotive sells a rebuilt stock draglink assembly for about $90.
Closing Comments
So you’ve finished the upgrade to the Toyota box. It went easier and quicker than expected. You’ve got money left in your pocket and you know that just isn’t right. Now it’s time to think about upgrading those front brakes to discs. Check them out at places like Engineered Components, Inc. and others. It’s another fairly easy and very worthwhile upgrade.
Disclaimer
The authors have made every effort to be as accurate as possible; however, we make no guaranty as to the accuracy of the information in this article.
The end
At this time 2/29/08, this is every tech article I could find on the FTE website that deals with our range of trucks ( i.e. 48-60)
For a nearly blow-by-blow account of one of the author’s day’s spent doing the install, check out this thread. It didn’t go quite as smoothly or as quickly as the discussion above would suggest. A little worse than changing your old rear leaf spring pins, but no where near as bad as a root canal.
NOTES:
· If you want to ease into this – go with the Toyota manual box initially. Should you later decide you want power steering, the Toyota boxes interchange easily except for the different Pitman arm.
· It has been mentioned that the early 84 Toyota box is useable and the later one is not. Here’s how you tell the difference.
o The good box has 4 mounting ears – 2 on each side of the Pitman shaft (see the picture above).
o The wrong one is a long skinny bugger. When you’ve seen both, you’ll understand.
· You will have to do a wee bit of grinding on the box housing to allow it to sit flat against your frame rail. Again, when you look at the box, you’ll easily understand what’s required.
· You may want to shop around for the kit parts a bit
o Mid-Fifty doesn’t have the Pitman arm for the 1957-1960 trucks, but No Limit Engineering does.
o No Limit Engineering has a bearing/sleeve/coupler kit to attach the stock column to the Toyota box.
o The opinion of the group is that the Mid-Fifty kit has the best box-to-frame bracket and other parts.
o Classic Performance Products has pretty much everything.
o Mid-Fifty has the rubber power steering hose set with adapters for most pumps.
o Gotta Show Products has braided SS hose sets with their own low profile fittings if you want stainless steel, need a custom length hose, or run into clearance issues with the return line hose.
· There is a new electric remote power steering pump available if you can’t, or don’t want to, install an engine driven pump. No one in the 1948-1960 Truck Forum has any experience with it, so you’re on your own.
· JobLot Automotive sells a rebuilt stock draglink assembly for about $90.
Closing Comments
So you’ve finished the upgrade to the Toyota box. It went easier and quicker than expected. You’ve got money left in your pocket and you know that just isn’t right. Now it’s time to think about upgrading those front brakes to discs. Check them out at places like Engineered Components, Inc. and others. It’s another fairly easy and very worthwhile upgrade.
Disclaimer
The authors have made every effort to be as accurate as possible; however, we make no guaranty as to the accuracy of the information in this article.
The end
At this time 2/29/08, this is every tech article I could find on the FTE website that deals with our range of trucks ( i.e. 48-60)
#19
02-29-2008, 09:24 PM
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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#20
04-09-2008, 12:07 AM
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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Automotive Calculators offer to you by Ford Trucks Enthusiasts | www.ford-trucks.com
• Displacement
» Cylinder Volume, Piston Displacement, Stroke, Bore
• Compression Ratio
» Compression Ratio, Chamber Volume, Displacement Ratio, Amount to Mill
• Piston Speed
» Mean Piston Speed, RPM
• Brake Horsepower
» Horsepower, Torque, Brake Specific Fuel Consumption, Brake Horsepower Loss
• Indicated Horsepower
» Indicated Horsepower, Indicated MEP, Indicated Torque, Mechanical Efficiency, Friction Output, Taxable Horsepower
• Air Capacity
» Air Capacity, Volumetric Efficiency, Street Carburator Size, Racing Carburetor Size
• Weight Distribution
» Wheel Weight Percentage, Increased Weight on Wheels
• Center of Gravity
» Location Behind Front Wheels, Location Off-Center on Heavy Side, Height of the Center of Gravity
• G Force
» G Force, Wheel Thrust, Centrifugal Force, Lateral Acceleration, Weight Transfer, Lateral Weight Transfer, Drive Wheel Torque
• Shift Points
» RPM After Shift, Drive Shaft Torque
• Quarter-Mile ET
» Elapsed Time, Miles Per Hour
• Overall Gear Ratio
» Manual Transmission Overall Gear Ratio, Automatic Transmission Overall Gear Ratio
• Instrument Error
» Actual MPH, Speedometer Error Percentage, Indicated Distance, Odometer Error Percentage
• MPH RPM
» MPH, RPM, Gear Ratio, Tire Diameter
• Tire Sizes
» Tire Diameter, Effective Ratio, Equivalent Ratio, Actual MPH, Indicated MPH
• Average MPH and MPG
» Miles Per Gallon, Miles Per Hour
• Modification Cost Effectiveness
» Mileage Modification Payoff
• Displacement
» Cylinder Volume, Piston Displacement, Stroke, Bore
• Compression Ratio
» Compression Ratio, Chamber Volume, Displacement Ratio, Amount to Mill
• Piston Speed
» Mean Piston Speed, RPM
• Brake Horsepower
» Horsepower, Torque, Brake Specific Fuel Consumption, Brake Horsepower Loss
• Indicated Horsepower
» Indicated Horsepower, Indicated MEP, Indicated Torque, Mechanical Efficiency, Friction Output, Taxable Horsepower
• Air Capacity
» Air Capacity, Volumetric Efficiency, Street Carburator Size, Racing Carburetor Size
• Weight Distribution
» Wheel Weight Percentage, Increased Weight on Wheels
• Center of Gravity
» Location Behind Front Wheels, Location Off-Center on Heavy Side, Height of the Center of Gravity
• G Force
» G Force, Wheel Thrust, Centrifugal Force, Lateral Acceleration, Weight Transfer, Lateral Weight Transfer, Drive Wheel Torque
• Shift Points
» RPM After Shift, Drive Shaft Torque
• Quarter-Mile ET
» Elapsed Time, Miles Per Hour
• Overall Gear Ratio
» Manual Transmission Overall Gear Ratio, Automatic Transmission Overall Gear Ratio
• Instrument Error
» Actual MPH, Speedometer Error Percentage, Indicated Distance, Odometer Error Percentage
• MPH RPM
» MPH, RPM, Gear Ratio, Tire Diameter
• Tire Sizes
» Tire Diameter, Effective Ratio, Equivalent Ratio, Actual MPH, Indicated MPH
• Average MPH and MPG
» Miles Per Gallon, Miles Per Hour
• Modification Cost Effectiveness
» Mileage Modification Payoff
#21
10-06-2008, 04:00 PM
Junior User
Join Date: May 2004
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turn signal diagnostics for a '48 F-1
Brain stumper for me, probably easy for one of you that has experienced this. All of my signals are working right except my right rear. I have the two filament bulb, but the filaments are lighting up in reverse compared to my left rear signal. Without the headlights on, the small/short filament lights up instead of the big/long one. With the headlights on the big filament is on solid and the smaller one tries to blink, but you cannot see it well due to the brighter large filament. I thought it was backwards, compared it to the left rear and it appears so. I tried switching the wires, seemd to be logical (!), still lights the same way. I'm making this too hard, I suspect...Any help out there? Thanks.
Matt and Toulouse
#22
02-24-2009, 09:17 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Julie's Cool F1 - 12V Conversion docs
Everyone know's that if there is an electical problem that Julie is the one to ask. Well I asked and she sent me her docs on a 12V conversion. So after asking her permission I put these up on a quick web page so anyone can download the power points without needing to send Julie a request! Hopefully this will give her more time to work on her own projects 
Julie's Cool F1 - 12V Conversion Docs
If the page doesn't work, feel free to bother me.
Julie's Cool F1 - 12V Conversion Docs
If the page doesn't work, feel free to bother me.
#24
06-24-2009, 11:32 AM
#25
06-24-2009, 11:38 PM
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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#26
06-25-2009, 12:44 AM
Join Date: Dec 2003
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Try these links, hope they work:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...24453Jag's 48 front
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=21703
Jags 49
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...umid=24834Jags 50
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...lbumid=7337Jag 55 front and rear.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=30130
The second 48
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...24453Jag's 48 front
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=21703
Jags 49
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...umid=24834Jags 50
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...lbumid=7337Jag 55 front and rear.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=30130
The second 48
#27
07-06-2009, 09:17 AM
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Doghouse Alignment
This sage advice comes from AXRacer at this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post5984604:
My suggestion: Most try to align the rest, then do the hood. As stated above the hood is aligned first then the rest of the front clip is aligned to it. First I will assume the frame to cab mounts are in good condition with good rubber and cab mounted straight. You'll never get the front right if the cab is crooked. Start with the radiator support horseshoe with all the front sheetmetal off the truck. Make sure the rubber isolator under it is in good shape, not hard/cracked/missing, the bolts are free. Put the truck front end on jackstands under front of frame, level front to back on frame and side to side on cowl seam. CAREFULLY adjust the horseshoe until the top is level, the distance from the front support rod mounts on the firewall to the top corner of the horseshoe is equal side to side. Add the wind deflectors to the sides of the radiator support, only snugging the bolts. remove the hood latch plate from the latchplate strip and mount the strip to horseshoe and deflectors. Adjust the deflectors as needed until the strip is also level and square to cowl, tightening the bolts in several steps like tightening a head on an engine. Set the hood in place without hinges, verify that you can get the hood to match up to the cowl with an even gap (hood gap will be larger than the 1/4" we usually try for when aligning sheetmetal, just the nature of the beast, you did replace the cowl windlacing didn't you?) Try placing temporary 1/4" spacers between the hood edges and the front hood latch strip to simulate the front rubber hood bumpers. If the hood won't align, you need to find out why before proceeding, likely the cab mounts need adjusting. If the front of the hood is decidedly off center the cab isn't square to the frame.
Once you have the hood sitting properly and evenly gapped around the cowl, remove it and add the rest of the front sheet metal, tightening all the bolts just finger tight. add the front end support rods with the adjusters just touching the front brackets. Make sure you have all the hood to fender bumpers in place and they are not hard or damaged.
Now set the hood back in place as before. This will likely take two people, but align the rear of each fender with the edge of the hood and the front even with the front of the hood. Don't worry if they droop a bit in the front. Snug all the bolts between the fender and cowl, inner fender, and lower valance pan, leaving the fender to wind deflectors and lower brace just finger tight. Repeat on other side. Now adjust the support rods to bring the front of the fenders up to align with hood. Additional tightening will bring the center of the fender to hood alignment up and the front edge of the fender back, tighten until you are satisfied with the fender to hood fit, then tighten the deflector to fender bolts and the fender support strut. Hopefully all of this has put the frame horns centered in the cutouts in the lower pan. If not you can adjust some by bending the support struts to move the bottom of the fenders side to side.
Finally you are ready to hinge the hood! First look in my "misc gallery" for the hinge pictures, remove the springs and be sure the hidden hinge pivot shown is not frozen and working freely. Even new hinges can have this pivot tight or paint frozen, and if tight the hood will never close properly! Bolt the hinges to the cowl just snug enough to support the hood, and bolt the hinges to the hood with the proper shoulder bolts and wavy washers, tighten the shoulder bolts just slightly more than finger tight, NO TIGHTER! Now carefully close the hood. Adjust the hood hinge to cowl location until the hood closes without excessive drag on windlace or contact with cowl or fenders. The hood should set down in the same alignment as before hinges were attached. Once the hood is opening and closing smoothly tight hinge mount bolts, and add a safety wire thru the heads of the shoulder bolts so they cannot loosen. Finally add the lower latch mechanism to the latch plate panel. Adjust the latch plate until the hood latches smoothly and sits properly. If the rear of the hood doesn't pull down by itself (and that pesky pivot is free), adjust the latch plate further forwards to pull the hood forwards as it latches, that should get the rear of the hood to come down.
Take your time to get each step exactly right before going on and everything should align and work better than when it came out of the factory!
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My suggestion: Most try to align the rest, then do the hood. As stated above the hood is aligned first then the rest of the front clip is aligned to it. First I will assume the frame to cab mounts are in good condition with good rubber and cab mounted straight. You'll never get the front right if the cab is crooked. Start with the radiator support horseshoe with all the front sheetmetal off the truck. Make sure the rubber isolator under it is in good shape, not hard/cracked/missing, the bolts are free. Put the truck front end on jackstands under front of frame, level front to back on frame and side to side on cowl seam. CAREFULLY adjust the horseshoe until the top is level, the distance from the front support rod mounts on the firewall to the top corner of the horseshoe is equal side to side. Add the wind deflectors to the sides of the radiator support, only snugging the bolts. remove the hood latch plate from the latchplate strip and mount the strip to horseshoe and deflectors. Adjust the deflectors as needed until the strip is also level and square to cowl, tightening the bolts in several steps like tightening a head on an engine. Set the hood in place without hinges, verify that you can get the hood to match up to the cowl with an even gap (hood gap will be larger than the 1/4" we usually try for when aligning sheetmetal, just the nature of the beast, you did replace the cowl windlacing didn't you?) Try placing temporary 1/4" spacers between the hood edges and the front hood latch strip to simulate the front rubber hood bumpers. If the hood won't align, you need to find out why before proceeding, likely the cab mounts need adjusting. If the front of the hood is decidedly off center the cab isn't square to the frame.
Once you have the hood sitting properly and evenly gapped around the cowl, remove it and add the rest of the front sheet metal, tightening all the bolts just finger tight. add the front end support rods with the adjusters just touching the front brackets. Make sure you have all the hood to fender bumpers in place and they are not hard or damaged.
Now set the hood back in place as before. This will likely take two people, but align the rear of each fender with the edge of the hood and the front even with the front of the hood. Don't worry if they droop a bit in the front. Snug all the bolts between the fender and cowl, inner fender, and lower valance pan, leaving the fender to wind deflectors and lower brace just finger tight. Repeat on other side. Now adjust the support rods to bring the front of the fenders up to align with hood. Additional tightening will bring the center of the fender to hood alignment up and the front edge of the fender back, tighten until you are satisfied with the fender to hood fit, then tighten the deflector to fender bolts and the fender support strut. Hopefully all of this has put the frame horns centered in the cutouts in the lower pan. If not you can adjust some by bending the support struts to move the bottom of the fenders side to side.
Finally you are ready to hinge the hood! First look in my "misc gallery" for the hinge pictures, remove the springs and be sure the hidden hinge pivot shown is not frozen and working freely. Even new hinges can have this pivot tight or paint frozen, and if tight the hood will never close properly! Bolt the hinges to the cowl just snug enough to support the hood, and bolt the hinges to the hood with the proper shoulder bolts and wavy washers, tighten the shoulder bolts just slightly more than finger tight, NO TIGHTER! Now carefully close the hood. Adjust the hood hinge to cowl location until the hood closes without excessive drag on windlace or contact with cowl or fenders. The hood should set down in the same alignment as before hinges were attached. Once the hood is opening and closing smoothly tight hinge mount bolts, and add a safety wire thru the heads of the shoulder bolts so they cannot loosen. Finally add the lower latch mechanism to the latch plate panel. Adjust the latch plate until the hood latches smoothly and sits properly. If the rear of the hood doesn't pull down by itself (and that pesky pivot is free), adjust the latch plate further forwards to pull the hood forwards as it latches, that should get the rear of the hood to come down.
Take your time to get each step exactly right before going on and everything should align and work better than when it came out of the factory!
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#28
09-20-2009, 01:59 PM
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
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'57-'60 Data plate intel & Year Model Info
This thanks to Colonel Flashman.
1957-58 Truck Vehicle Identification
* Where To Find Your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Data Plate.
For 1957-58 Ford the Data plate is attached to the rear face of the driver's door or mounted on rear face of the Dispatch box door. The information on the Data plate is the VIN number. The VIN number identifies the series, engine, model year, assembly plant and production sequence.
The sequence below is how it should look.
Vehicle Identification Number - F10J8R30717
* Series Identification
F10 = F100
F11 = F100 Light Duty
F25 = F250
F26 = F250 Light Duty
F35 = F350
* Engine Code
J = 223ci 6Cyl 1BC Carburetor 1957-58
K = 272ci 8Cyl 2BC Carburetor 145hp 1957-58
L = 272ci 8Cyl 2BC Carburetor 153 hp 1957
* Models Year
7 = 1957
8 = 1958
* Assembly Plant
A = Atlanta, GA
G = Chicago, IL
D = Dallas, TX
H = Detriot, MI
K = Kansas City, MO
L = Long Beach, CA
U = Louisville, KY
E = Mahwah, NJ
M = Memphis, TN
N = Norfolk,VA
R = San Jose, CA
P = St. Paul, MN
* Production Sequence (Series #)
Key Information 1957-58
1957: The 1957 trucks were totally restyled. The running boards were eliminated, and the cab design and dash design were new. The most noticeable feature was the Styleside pickup box, which had smooth sides that blended in with the sides of the cab. The traditional pickup with fenders attached to the outside of the box was called Flareside. The Flareside pickups came with a wood floor, whereas the Stylesides got a steel floor. Redesigned shield hood badge and hood-side flashes. Ford-O-Matic or Overdrive badges were mounted on the right front corner of the hood, same for the '58.
1958: The 1958 trucks were face-lifted. The most noticeable changes were the use of quad-headlight arrangement, a new egg crate type grille and new hood-side flashes and A redesigned two piece hood side flashes.
1959-60 Truck Vehicle Identification
* Where To Find Your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
For 1959-60 Ford the Data plate is attached to the rear face of the driver's door and the rear face of the dispatch box door. The information on the Data plate is the VIN number. The VIN number identifies the series, engine, model year, assembly plant and production sequence.
Vehicle Identification Number - F25J9U100001
* Series Identification
F10 = F100
F11 = F100 4WD
F25 = F250
F26 = F250 4WD
F35 = F350
* Engine Code
J = 223ci 6Cyl 1BC Carburetor 1959-60
C = 292ci 8Cyl 2BC Carburetor 158hp 1959-60
D = 292ci 8Cyl 2BC Carburetor 160 hp 1959-60
* Models Year
9 = 1959
0 = 1960
* Assembly Plant
A = Atlanta, GA
G = Chicago, IL
D = Dallas, TX
K = Kansas City, MO
L = Long Beach, CA
U = Louisville, KY
E = Mahwah, NJ
M = Memphis, TN
N = Norfolk,VA
S = Allen Park, MI
R = San Jose, CA
P = St. Paul, MN
* Production Sequence (Series #)
Key Information 1959-60
1959: The major styling changes on the 1959 trucks consisted of a woven nylon saran seat upholstery, foam rubber seat padding, sound deadening material, two-tone paint on the doors and the instrument panel, a left door armrest, a white steering wheel with a chrome horn ring, a passenger's side visor, an illuminated cigar lighter, a chrome grille, headlight bezels, parking light rims and windshield moldings, and matched door locks. A Custom Cab emblem was located on each door. A Redesigned taller hood withe deeper beak, with an oval cut-out with a mesh grille in-sit into it, with FORD letters attached replaced the previous shield hood badge and gained new hood-side flashes. First year of the factory built 4-wheel drives.
1960: The 1960 trucks featured a new grille that incorporated quad headlight bezels. The hood also got new sculpturing was taller with an even deeper beak, redesigned hood-side flashes and a new three point kings crown front hood badge replaced the previous year models. Several minor improvements appeared, such as modified door latches, new door seals, a redesigned armrest, a redesigned wiring harness with multi-plug sockets, and a cowl-side fuse box and circuit breaker box.
1957-58 Truck Vehicle Identification
* Where To Find Your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Data Plate.
For 1957-58 Ford the Data plate is attached to the rear face of the driver's door or mounted on rear face of the Dispatch box door. The information on the Data plate is the VIN number. The VIN number identifies the series, engine, model year, assembly plant and production sequence.
The sequence below is how it should look.
Vehicle Identification Number - F10J8R30717
* Series Identification
F10 = F100
F11 = F100 Light Duty
F25 = F250
F26 = F250 Light Duty
F35 = F350
* Engine Code
J = 223ci 6Cyl 1BC Carburetor 1957-58
K = 272ci 8Cyl 2BC Carburetor 145hp 1957-58
L = 272ci 8Cyl 2BC Carburetor 153 hp 1957
* Models Year
7 = 1957
8 = 1958
* Assembly Plant
A = Atlanta, GA
G = Chicago, IL
D = Dallas, TX
H = Detriot, MI
K = Kansas City, MO
L = Long Beach, CA
U = Louisville, KY
E = Mahwah, NJ
M = Memphis, TN
N = Norfolk,VA
R = San Jose, CA
P = St. Paul, MN
* Production Sequence (Series #)
Key Information 1957-58
1957: The 1957 trucks were totally restyled. The running boards were eliminated, and the cab design and dash design were new. The most noticeable feature was the Styleside pickup box, which had smooth sides that blended in with the sides of the cab. The traditional pickup with fenders attached to the outside of the box was called Flareside. The Flareside pickups came with a wood floor, whereas the Stylesides got a steel floor. Redesigned shield hood badge and hood-side flashes. Ford-O-Matic or Overdrive badges were mounted on the right front corner of the hood, same for the '58.
1958: The 1958 trucks were face-lifted. The most noticeable changes were the use of quad-headlight arrangement, a new egg crate type grille and new hood-side flashes and A redesigned two piece hood side flashes.
1959-60 Truck Vehicle Identification
* Where To Find Your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
For 1959-60 Ford the Data plate is attached to the rear face of the driver's door and the rear face of the dispatch box door. The information on the Data plate is the VIN number. The VIN number identifies the series, engine, model year, assembly plant and production sequence.
Vehicle Identification Number - F25J9U100001
* Series Identification
F10 = F100
F11 = F100 4WD
F25 = F250
F26 = F250 4WD
F35 = F350
* Engine Code
J = 223ci 6Cyl 1BC Carburetor 1959-60
C = 292ci 8Cyl 2BC Carburetor 158hp 1959-60
D = 292ci 8Cyl 2BC Carburetor 160 hp 1959-60
* Models Year
9 = 1959
0 = 1960
* Assembly Plant
A = Atlanta, GA
G = Chicago, IL
D = Dallas, TX
K = Kansas City, MO
L = Long Beach, CA
U = Louisville, KY
E = Mahwah, NJ
M = Memphis, TN
N = Norfolk,VA
S = Allen Park, MI
R = San Jose, CA
P = St. Paul, MN
* Production Sequence (Series #)
Key Information 1959-60
1959: The major styling changes on the 1959 trucks consisted of a woven nylon saran seat upholstery, foam rubber seat padding, sound deadening material, two-tone paint on the doors and the instrument panel, a left door armrest, a white steering wheel with a chrome horn ring, a passenger's side visor, an illuminated cigar lighter, a chrome grille, headlight bezels, parking light rims and windshield moldings, and matched door locks. A Custom Cab emblem was located on each door. A Redesigned taller hood withe deeper beak, with an oval cut-out with a mesh grille in-sit into it, with FORD letters attached replaced the previous shield hood badge and gained new hood-side flashes. First year of the factory built 4-wheel drives.
1960: The 1960 trucks featured a new grille that incorporated quad headlight bezels. The hood also got new sculpturing was taller with an even deeper beak, redesigned hood-side flashes and a new three point kings crown front hood badge replaced the previous year models. Several minor improvements appeared, such as modified door latches, new door seals, a redesigned armrest, a redesigned wiring harness with multi-plug sockets, and a cowl-side fuse box and circuit breaker box.
#29
10-22-2009, 10:17 PM
Ford F100
Hello everyone,
I need all the information I can get on my 1960 Ford F100 Stepside.
It has the original Straight Six motor in it. Don't ask me what size cause
I wouldn't know the first place to go to find out. I need wiring schematics
and a diagram of how the engine goes together. I have the engine together, but I am trying to put all the periferal devices on and also attempt to see where all the hoses and wiring goes in the engine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Aaron
I need all the information I can get on my 1960 Ford F100 Stepside.
It has the original Straight Six motor in it. Don't ask me what size cause
I wouldn't know the first place to go to find out. I need wiring schematics
and a diagram of how the engine goes together. I have the engine together, but I am trying to put all the periferal devices on and also attempt to see where all the hoses and wiring goes in the engine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Aaron
#30
10-23-2009, 12:50 AM
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 89,681
Received 1,353 Likes
on
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