2000 Excursion V10- Blower will not shut off-Help please
I searched a couple of forum sites and couldn't find the same problem.
After a short drive with the heater blowing, I pulled into the driveway and while switching the ignition to off and pulling the keys out, I noticed the heater blower was still blowing. I then switched the heater control to off and no luck. I then cycled the ignition switch to on then to off and the blower stopped. Then to double check, I then turned the heater switch to on and the blower was blowing again (keys are out) and then turned the heater switch to off, but it was still blowing. I again put the keys in the ignition and cycled to on then back off. The blower stopped again.
Any idea's?
Ignition switch? Maybe a relay somewhere? Any idea's and a little shove in the right direction would be apprieciated.
i am new to ford ownership but maybe it is wired to the delay relay for the power windows... my windows work after removing the keys for a while as long as no doors are opend first...
but that is just a guess...
i have the same problem it has killed my battery several times. Was not sure what it was until I sat in the truck after shutting it down one time. The blower came back on several min after removing the key. also turning the blower to off would not stop the blower unless you put the key in and turned it on and then took the control to off. Sorry I dont have a solution yet but I am still checking stuff. I also have a problem with no audio from radio when in gear works great in neutral or park. I know it has something to do with netral switch but not sure yet.
If you have the Manual A/C ,The blower speed switch [ function selecter switch ] supplies a ground for the blower motor, through different resistors, the blower relay supplies the positive 12v DC.
If you have the automatic, there is a relay ,a motor speed controller [ which I guess replaces the resistors ] , and an EATC controller. the relay still supplies the power and the controller the ground, basic troubleshooting should be able to find the problem by tracing back.I hope I have been of some help, I got this info from my Haynes manual.
the manual air cond. will be easier to trouble shoot,
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2000 Excursion 4x4 v-10 3 inch lift,Bilstein shocks,F-250 chrome grill,Helwig rear sway bar,Gibson exhaust,K&N filter, and now ICC lights.
thats interesting info on the switch. I did trace it down to the fact the relay is on but there is no suplied voltage from the ignition switch to turn it on. I totally removed the harness from the ignition switch under the dash and it was still blowing. so somewhere it is getting power to turn on the relay. I ruled out a sticking relay by switching them around. Also when I pulled the relay the blower stoped and replaced the relay it came back on. all this while the ignition wire harness was totally removed.
I forgot to add this is not a all the time problem sometimes it can go a month or more before it happens. and during normal operation both AC/ and heat blowers work perfectly. Also the radio problem comes and goes it will work fine for days and then it wil cut out while in drive or reverse sometimes for an hour or more then just start working on its own. That problem I thing may be linked to the neutral safety switch but I have not bought a replacement switch yet.
I had that issue. My roof/windshield was leaking water into my dash creating a short. The blower wouldn't shut off unless I shut the motor off then shut off the ignition, also the radio only played music while in park and neutral. The fuse panel got wet and shorted out. Got that replaced and got the roof fixed and all is well now.
wow fuse panel causing problems with radio and blower? I can believe the winshield leak just had to have mine replaced because of an air leak. I assume If I could hear air water was getting in also. thanks. So was this the fuse panel under the dash? or under the hood
It was the one under the dash. It was easy to diagnose beings the carpet was soaked. Water had leaked in on the back side and corroded everything back there. It's a short that smoked several wired in the process to a total of $800 in electrical repairs and $500 in body shop work to fix the roof. The windshield broke on removal so that added another $150.
ok I checked around and no sign of water damage or anything have gotten into the fuse panel. Also for some stange reason the radio is now working in all gears. Not sure if it was digging around or not but right now no issues not sure how long that will last!!!! thank you for all the information,
After reading downrivers post, I looked into the leaky window suggestion. After the weather warmed in N. Dakota, I noticed water on the dash on the passenger side after a rain storm. I took it in and both upper corners of my windshield was leaky. I had it resealed and with no problems since (two months).
I had this issue after my windshield was replaced. The water worked it's way into the dash. It leaked down the A-pillar into the dash. It was a pain in the azz all winter and I couldn't figure it out till spring when every time I washed the truck it happened. Turns out the glue used was bad
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If the listening level is too loud, promptly inform the driver, so he may pull over, and let you out
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