I almost there in getting the Ex ready for a road trip pulling a TT from the Windy City to the Sunshine State. I had to get the wiring repaired for the 4X4, vacuum solenoid replaced, both front hubs and a universal joint in front. Both sway bar links and bushings, all new pads/rotors, 4 new tires. Of course I got all the fluids, oils, filters changed, tune up and the #5 and #10 coil replaced (is that why it vibrated/detonated in OD), fuel inj cleaned, pcv valve replaced. They said the ball joints and steering links were good, but on the road even though the truck tracks straight there is free play in the steering wheel. I can turn it a little left and right and the front tires will track straight. That in itself isn't a problem its when I change lanes or a semi goes by and I have to make corrections the free play makes it difficult to compensate with precision. When I try to give steering adjustments at first there is no change but when I turn past the free play section it catches and if I have to counter correct then I have that free play to work back through until it catches again. I am bringing it back to the shop because I read somewhere they can tighten the steering boxes is that true. Is the free play considered normal?
They said the ball joints and steering links were good, but on the road even though the truck tracks straight there is free play in the steering wheel. .....because I read somewhere they can tighten the steering boxes is that true. Is the free play considered normal?
Here are the instructions to tighten your steering box to take up the excess free play you have.
Locate the allen bolt and locknut on top of the steering box. It’s close to the radiator. The locknut should be a 5/8".
Mark the allen bolt so you’re oriented and know where the start point is, then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh.
Tighten the locknut and road test your vehicle.
Be careful not to over-tighten the allen bolt. If you do, the steering may become too tight and get extremely stiff during a tight turn, possibly causing you to drive off the roadway.
Keep repeating the sequence, turning the allen bolt a ¼ turn at a time, followed by a test drive, until you're satisfied with the performance. If you over-tighten the allen bolt, turn the allen bolt back a quarter turn, counter-clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I suggest you tighten it to the point where the slop is gone, and no further.
From what I’ve read on the forums, most people will turn the allen bolt three-quarters of a rotation to one and one half rotations before they’re happy with the results. Mine took 3/4'rs of a rotation, and I should have gone a little more.
Stewart
__________________
1999 F150 Lightning
- Woodbine Motorsports built block
2000 PSD 4X4 Excursion
- John Wood tranny, DP-Tuner, AFE, MBRP 4", BDP 1.0, Overboost Annihilator, ITP Pre-Pump mod, Gauges from ITP, V & B code springs, Hellwig rear sway.
I agree. I replaced my gearbox only to find the new one was even looser than the 80K one I had. I am telling everyone I come in contact with that has a F250 style truck about this adjustment. I have130K on mine now and I adjust it every couple of months...But mine tire & wheel combo adds to the need for that.
That is definately the way to go. You will know when you need a new gear box. Once you have done this and you cannot improve on the slop then it is time for the new box. and as shak said no gaurantess that there will wont be slop in the new box. Goo dluck and have that done prior to the trip. It is hard enough to travel while trailering something let alone with slop in the sterring. I had an old boss who had a bucket truck for tree work. It was a big old ford and i could literally turn a goof 4 inches and nothing would react. It was a skill learning to drive that. New employees would come and say their was no way they would drive the truck and I would say ok I will do it. It was one of the few trucks that had good heat and ac. lol
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2000 X Diesel, 6in Pro Comp system, new TrXus SS 35's, 16x10 Rockcrawler Series rims, Superchip
My Beast is back on the road with new headlights, hood, bumper and grill.
I only had the truck for about weeks and the wheel are factory and the tires are the recommended size. I am just fixing all the bugs the previous owner didn't mind.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjbirish
better junk the tire-wheel combo... adjustments every few months there is something else wrong...
better junk the tire-wheel combo... adjustments every few months there is something else wrong...
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowekmr
I only had the truck for about weeks and the wheel are factory and the tires are the recommended size. I am just fixing all the bugs the previous owner didn't mind.
Row, JJ's post was directed at shakinX's post (post number 3 above), not you.
Row, do the steering box adjustment as outlined above buddy. It will cure what ails ya!
Stewart
__________________
1999 F150 Lightning
- Woodbine Motorsports built block
2000 PSD 4X4 Excursion
- John Wood tranny, DP-Tuner, AFE, MBRP 4", BDP 1.0, Overboost Annihilator, ITP Pre-Pump mod, Gauges from ITP, V & B code springs, Hellwig rear sway.
I found something interesting.. I had the whole front end checked at the dealers and was told that there was the expected amount of wear for a rig with 90K on it,but they did tighten the box for me..That was this summer.. Now that it's winter and cold,I am finding that I am getting a lot of wander first thing in the AM,but not later when it warms up and the "X" warms up..When I really notice it is on acceleration and when I let up and it seems the engine torque takes over...I notice the same thing in the school bus when I'm going down the highway under power (underpower,try a 220hp Cummins for a 40') and let up on the accelerator and it wants to take off in another direction...Then when you accelerate it wants to pull the opposite way..
Thanks Stewart I finally did catch that. I was going to do the adjustment but when I found our I could get a new one for free I decided to take that approach. But after reading some post that the new onea can do that also I might end up rolling up my sleeves after all. I am waiting for the dealership to call so I can pick it up then we will hitch up the trailer and will be on the road for about 2800 miles so I should learn alot about the truck then.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Row, JJ's post was directed at shakinX's post (post number 3 above), not you.
Row, do the steering box adjustment as outlined above buddy. It will cure what ails ya!
Here are the instructions to tighten your steering box to take up the excess free play you have.
Locate the allen bolt and locknut on top of the steering box. It’s close to the radiator. The locknut should be a 5/8".
Mark the allen bolt so you’re oriented and know where the start point is, then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh.
Tighten the locknut and road test your vehicle.
Be careful not to over-tighten the allen bolt. If you do, the steering may become too tight and get extremely stiff during a tight turn, possibly causing you to drive off the roadway.
Keep repeating the sequence, turning the allen bolt a ¼ turn at a time, followed by a test drive, until you're satisfied with the performance. If you over-tighten the allen bolt, turn the allen bolt back a quarter turn, counter-clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I suggest you tighten it to the point where the slop is gone, and no further.
From what I’ve read on the forums, most people will turn the allen bolt three-quarters of a rotation to one and one half rotations before they’re happy with the results. Mine took 3/4'rs of a rotation, and I should have gone a little more.
Stewart
My Excursion can go about a quarter turn on the steering wheel either direction before it actually begins to turn, but it only has 55k on the clock. Is it normal to need adjustment with lower mileage?
__________________
Jeremy Billiel
2003 Ford Excursion Limited Ultimate 6.0L
My Excursion can go about a quarter turn on the steering wheel either direction before it actually begins to turn, but it only has 55k on the clock. Is it normal to need adjustment with lower mileage?
Eh, who knows.
Look at it this way, if it needs it, you now know how to adjust it!
Stewart
__________________
1999 F150 Lightning
- Woodbine Motorsports built block
2000 PSD 4X4 Excursion
- John Wood tranny, DP-Tuner, AFE, MBRP 4", BDP 1.0, Overboost Annihilator, ITP Pre-Pump mod, Gauges from ITP, V & B code springs, Hellwig rear sway.
I am use to driving European performance cars and Corvette's. My EX 2000 7.3 has about 1" of play left and right of center and I was thinking this is way too much but at the max "normal" limit. Now I find some go 1/4 turn on the steering wheel? Or is this 1/4 turn on the bearing preload worm in the steering box. ??
I am use to driving European performance cars and Corvette's. My EX 2000 7.3 has about 1" of play left and right of center and I was thinking this is way too much but at the max "normal" limit. Now I find some go 1/4 turn on the steering wheel? Or is this 1/4 turn on the bearing preload worm in the steering box. ??
You're confusing yourself bro.
Like the instructions note, the quarter turn is done to the steering adjustment nut on the top of the steering box. Too much play in the steering wheel is why we do the adjustment.
Stewart
__________________
1999 F150 Lightning
- Woodbine Motorsports built block
2000 PSD 4X4 Excursion
- John Wood tranny, DP-Tuner, AFE, MBRP 4", BDP 1.0, Overboost Annihilator, ITP Pre-Pump mod, Gauges from ITP, V & B code springs, Hellwig rear sway.
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