Loose Steering/Problem 00 Ex

[CanadianSmokie]

As an added note to the steering box asjustment, the allen bolt is 3/16. Also, when you road test it after adjustment, do a lock to lock test to make sure it doesn't bind. That is where you will notice the binding first as it is the least used part of the steering range.


I'm not sure about you Stewart, but I do my adjustment from underneath the truck when the shop has it up on the hoist. I find it easier to reach....

[X_Hemi_Guy]

Sounds like rowekmr did a new box?

But on the V10 (like rowekmr and I have)...while it is 'tight' to get your hands and arms down from above...that's the way I did mine. Not sure about the PSD versions like Stewart and CanadianSmokie have.

I think many have 'multiple' sensations going on. The steps Stewart outlines for the steering box adjustment is a good first step but as he noted...a cautious one to NOT overtighten the box as premature wear out or binding can occur.

Proper trailer setup and WD balance is where most suffer the most issues from and attempt to correct the Ex to correct the balance issue.

A trip to the scales to ensure proper tongue weight and WD application should be the first step. Once you know your TT/TV is properly balanced and you have proper tire pressure (trial and error on Ex unfortunately) and MAX tire pressure on TT, and you ensure you have a rear sway bar on the Ex...THEN it is my opinion you should start looking at your Ex more indepth.

PROPER WD application should be achieved following this thread. http://www.tldirectory.com/cforum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17730894.cfm

Too many tag the Ex unjustly for improper WD/balance issues. While the Ex certainly is no dream TV out of the box...it is an easy target. BUT once you KNOW your balance on the WD is proper...and you STILL have handling issues...a few tweaks here and there are ALL that is needed IMO to get the Ex to be a DREAM!

Happy New Year to all!

joe.

[rowekmr]

Actually when I paid the difference from what the warranty wouldn't cover I found out it was a rebuilt unit. The tech told me beforehand that there will be a difference but don't expect a lot and he was dead on. It did improve it enough that I decided to take go on the trip (wouldn't with how it was beforehand) but countering the trailer sway (another post) I found I didn't have the precision that I would want so instead of just countering holding the wheel at one point I had to still go back and forth to catch the sway and to find the vague center. I guess I am still working out the bugs and haven't ruled out tightening the box although the tech warned me against that saying that isn't what that adjustment is for (?).

[vettdvr]

Originally Posted by rowekmr

Actually when I paid the difference from what the warranty wouldn't cover I found out it was a rebuilt unit. The tech told me beforehand that there will be a difference but don't expect a lot and he was dead on. It did improve it enough that I decided to take go on the trip (wouldn't with how it was beforehand) but countering the trailer sway (another post) I found I didn't have the precision that I would want so instead of just countering holding the wheel at one point I had to still go back and forth to catch the sway and to find the vague center. I guess I am still working out the bugs and haven't ruled out tightening the box although the tech warned me against that saying that isn't what that adjustment is for (?).

Just my thoughts on the nut adjustment.

You can adjust the steering and take some small amount of play out of the system. The adjustment sets the preload on the worm ball bearings. If it is loose you can adjust it slightly. But the intent is for adjusting bearings not taking out steering slop from other causes. If the bearings are loose and you overtighten you can really damage the box.

[farmer2]

Originally Posted by vettdvr

Just my thoughts on the nut adjustment.

You can adjust the steering and take some small amount of play out of the system. The adjustment sets the preload on the worm ball bearings. If it is loose you can adjust it slightly. But the intent is for adjusting bearings not taking out steering slop from other causes. If the bearings are loose and you overtighten you can really damage the box.

My thoughts exactly. I did the pitman arm off, return hose off, torque turn the steering wheel to 11 in lbs and still have the play you all talk about. I have tight steering joints/ball joints every where and still cant find the issue. It drives me nuts over compensating the play while on the highway. I have not checked a nylon bushing someone said is in the steering that can fall out if a clip falls out???
I am going to check for that today.

Has anyone found anything on their trucks that posted here to fix this problem yet? To take a little play out and still have the issue is not good enough for me. On ice roads this is very dangerous!!

[CanadianSmokie]

On a similar thread in this forum (amazing how much this subject comes up) some people were thinking that the stock spec alignment on the X is part of the problem. Apparantly, the difference between the X and a F-250SD is quite different. The X is set up to lessen low speed steering effort which would make it twitchy at higher speeds...sounds plausible.

I'll wait till Mythbusters does an episode on it before I'll pass judgement....lol

[Fugazi]

Originally Posted by Stewart_H

Here are the instructions to tighten your steering box to take up the excess free play you have.

Locate the allen bolt and locknut on top of the steering box. It’s close to the radiator. The locknut should be a 5/8".

Mark the allen bolt so you’re oriented and know where the start point is, then loosen the locknut.

Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh.

Tighten the locknut and road test your vehicle.

Be careful not to over-tighten the allen bolt. If you do, the steering may become too tight and get extremely stiff during a tight turn, possibly causing you to drive off the roadway.

Keep repeating the sequence, turning the allen bolt a ¼ turn at a time, followed by a test drive, until you're satisfied with the performance. If you over-tighten the allen bolt, turn the allen bolt back a quarter turn, counter-clockwise.

There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I suggest you tighten it to the point where the slop is gone, and no further.

From what I’ve read on the forums, most people will turn the allen bolt three-quarters of a rotation to one and one half rotations before they’re happy with the results. Mine took 3/4'rs of a rotation, and I should have gone a little more.

Stewart

Will this work on a 2005 Ex. as well?

[Stewart_H]

Originally Posted by Fugazi

Will this work on a 2005 Ex. as well?

....yes....

[Fugazi]

Originally Posted by Stewart_H

....yes....

I did it! It took about 3/4 turn until the steering is where I want it to be.

Thanks!!!

[farmer2]

Originally Posted by CanadianSmokie

On a similar thread in this forum (amazing how much this subject comes up) some people were thinking that the stock spec alignment on the X is part of the problem. Apparantly, the difference between the X and a F-250SD is quite different. The X is set up to lessen low speed steering effort which would make it twitchy at higher speeds...sounds plausible.

I'll wait till Mythbusters does an episode on it before I'll pass judgement....lol

Do you know what the numbers/differance is in the allignment?
I am curious on this one as well.
Highway sucks in this thing!