60K miles & dry rotted lower ball joint dust covers & cracked upper rubber dust covers, so I'm going to be proactive & have the upper & lower ball joints replaced.

Am getting confused quote feeback, some say the upper A arm will need to be replaced.

So whats the story on a 99 Ranger 4.0L SC 4X2 OEM upper "A" arm, are the upper ball joints replaceable, or does the entire "A" arm have to be replaced????

Everything is still tight, just dryrotted dust covers, only 60K miles, still have the OEM tires, with even wear.

One quote wants me to supply the parts & I'm thinking TRW ball joints, as they are the only ones I've found with a lifetime warranty.
So I'm assuming their rubber boot compound is likely more robust than Fords, which looks like some of that recycled rubber they make our sorry emergency brake pedal covers from!!!!

Moog only has a 1 year warranty & I'm not of a mind to go with OEM Motorcraft, because of the sorry rubber compound in the dust boot.

So would like some feedback on the upper "A" arm question & on TRW ball joints quality.

 

The TRW's are good. Just did mine on my '99 2wd.

As for the control arm, yes you have to replace it. They list them as replaceable units someplaces, the catalogs are wrong. But you will be glad. They are super easy to replace. I went ahead and replaced outer tie rod ends too. I also replaced both end links while I was in there. Shocks all around are next, but probably not til spring.

 

Dont forget to get an alignment after replacing front end parts.

I like TRW. Always use them, no problems so far.

 

You know I just thought of something, if the upper ball joint isn't replaceable on the coil spring double "A" arm suspension, in other words the whole upper "A" arm must be replaced, then how about the lower ball joint????

Is it repaceable, or must the lower "A" arm also be replaced????

 

The lower is replaceable. The lower A arm is conventional stamped steel. The snap rings get removed, then they pop right out (for the most part) with the C clamp style ball joint press available as a loaner at most auto parts chains.

The upper is a tubular style arm, with somewhat of an integrated ball joint. The nice part is it's a bolt in, no special tools required fix. And you get nice new control arm bushings when it's replaced.

And definately the alignment. Honestly, around here we have a couple very good dealerships, open late, and its like $69-75 for the alignment.

 

Ok, good feedback, NOW some of the repair manual, quotes, & on line catalogue confusion, is becoming clear.

I've not done suspension work over the years, other than shocks, or maybe torsen bar bushings, as I prefer to leave the heavy work to the pros, with the proper tools & experience.

Haven't watched a ball joint job being done since the 50's, so I'd be a little rusty at it anyway.

A couple more quotes & I'll make a decision on who's gonna get some of my Gold!!!! lol

Gotta get it done, heard a front end groan Saturday with the steering almost full off center, So I don't want to go the whole winter with it like it is, the lower dust boots all cracked up & beginning to crumble.

You folks out there reading this, with a 8 year old or 60K+ miles on your Ranger, had better keep a close eye on your ball joint rubber dust boots, cause Ford has used some sorry rubber on those boots. The joints are just fine, no play YET, but they are dry & getting noisy from getting dirt & moisture in there, so wear out time is neigh!!!!

 

I've heard of worn end links on the 2WD Ranger causing noises that are very difficult to trace. I think if I were doing the job I'd also go with new end links.

 

Roger on that, duely noted!!!!

 

Umm, the upper ball joints on some of these ARE replaceable. Moog part number K8738 fits 1998-06's. I just put a set on my 1998 Ranger 2WD coil front end...... and Moog still has a lifetime warranty.

 

On my '99 2wd I replaced just the upper joints,not the whole control arm.Possibly a running production change or something.Funny thing is the parts place kept sending over control arms for an F150,said that was what they listed.

 

BUMP, Update & Closeout:

Well I finally had the 99 Rangers upper & lower ball joints replaced yesterday, only 65K miles on it.

The ball joint dust boots were completely dryrotted & crumbling, some really sub par quality rubber Ford used there, I'm not at all favorably impressed.

So again, any of you out there with an older Ranger, with the upper & lower "A" arm coil spring suspension, be sure to get under there & check the condition of the upper & lower ball joints & dust boots.

Bet you'll find the dust boots all cracked & dryrotted & if so, moisture & dirt will get in there & wear the joints out.
I've been watching my dust boots deteriorate over the past 3 years or so.

My right side upper BJ was dangerously worn & wasn't safe.

Both the upper & lower ball joints on the 4X2 coil spring suspension ARE replaceable.

The whole job with greaseable TRW upper & lower ball joints for both sides, alignment, tire rotation & balance & a plug & patch job on the right front tire with a danged screw in it, was $650 at my local Tire Ameica shop.

Not too bad, as the BJ's were going to cost me about $200, if I replaced them myself, so I chickened out & ponied up the gold to have the pros do it.

Good thing I did, as it took them an hour to get one of the danged upper ball joints out!!!!

The others came out ok, so it's true, the upper & lower ball joints on the 4X2 upper & lower "A" arm coil spring suspension can be replaced, without having to replace the upper control arms.

I don't have all my paperwork right now, so I'll post the TRW ball joint part #'s later for a FYI, cause I know there are likely to be more of you needing new BJ's.

BTW the TRW BJ's were one of a few that offered a lifetime warranty & had a good recipe rubber dust boot, thats not likely to dryrot right away.

I know Ford used to use good quality rubber, because my 78 Mercury Zyphers dust boots are still good!!!!!

 

Both of my lower ball joint dust boots are cracked and have been for several years now. About every 2 weeks I spray inside them real well with WD-40 to get any dirt or mud out, let that dry up a little and then spray liberaly with white lithium grease. I use the red spray can nozzle extension and insert it into the cracks in the boot. Using that makes sure I get the grease all around it. I really need to replace them, but after a couple of years of doing this everything is still tight and solid.

Yeah I know, it will cause me serious trouble in the near future. Not even sure why I posted this..................

 

I still say replace the control arm on the uppers. The new arm comes with nice new bushings. If the rubber on the joints was sub par i can't believe the bushings were much better. If the arms were replaced, the issue of getting out the stubborn joint is a non issue. They take about 15 minutes each to replace the upper control arm without special tools, and about $72 per side. Arms are beefier, and nice bushings that don't squeak anymore in my case.

Add the 2 lowers and you are still around that 200 mark. If you have to have a shop do them the arms will probably cost a fortune. so maybe just joints.

 

Ford Ranger Ball Joint Replace

For the do-it-yourselfers & yes the upper BJ's on a coil spring 2X4 Ranger are replaceable & maybe something you may want to consider, if your upper control arm bushings are ok.

 

Hey Pawpaw: NICE JOB!!! Thanks for the pics. Tim