Broke spark plug, porcelain removal?
#61
I know what your saying about shops and dealers, but the Ford dealer in my town doesn't even have the Rotunda tool, and this shop has it, along with another shop in the next town, and they have done several of these, and a Ford dealer in that town told me to call him, b/c he has done more than them.
I'm just hoping I don't get screwed!
I'm just hoping I don't get screwed!
#62
I was told the same thing. Weve done several and have had no problems. In the end they had pricing available for head removal, replacement and who knows, a new long block could be an option.
Just stay super cautious and try to be present and available, you might now know as much as they do.
Just stay super cautious and try to be present and available, you might now know as much as they do.
#63
promises,promises,for the money dealer will charge you I would take week off my job and do it my self even if it means removing the head.
have bad feeling about dealer in your particular case b/c they know you're f.....
and you have no choice cose you showed up there.
Don't be scared doing it your self ,tow truck is allways available on the other side of phone line when needed.
have bad feeling about dealer in your particular case b/c they know you're f.....
and you have no choice cose you showed up there.
Don't be scared doing it your self ,tow truck is allways available on the other side of phone line when needed.
#64
Hey MBB, I realize from previous posts that you bought your truck with 60,000 miles on it, so you probably have no idea how the previous owner drove it. However, I remember in another post concerning fuel economy that you were driving your F150 pretty easy to get decent mileage. I wonder if driving the truck easy leads to excessive carbon buildup around the plugs? Just wondering what may have caused your excessive plug sticking problem . . .
Here's wishing you the best of luck on getting your truck back on the road with minimal cost.
Dale
Here's wishing you the best of luck on getting your truck back on the road with minimal cost.
Dale
#65
My opinion is that its not driving habits, its a sh#@%&y design. We should probably just realize that and know that argument can be made for both sides of the coin for a heavy foot or a light foot or Chevron or Arco or whatever other gas there is. I use my truck. I take care of my truck, I drive light when it's appropriate, I drive fast if its appropriate, I use 4 wheel drive regularly, I maintain my vehicle every 3k miles, I use super unleaded everytime. I'm sure there will be exceptions to all the scenarios listed above and everyone out there will have a differing outcome. Regardless, there won't be many that just goes out to their garage or driveway and throws a sparkplug socket on a ratchet and removes the plugs and then throws 8 new ones back in.
#66
learn from our mistakes!!
MBB I too broke a plug and was trying to advise you on extraction .. We should help others by showing what we might have done wrong to cause our headache. I can get us started here with what I know by now.
My first mistake was using incorrect penetrant. I used pb blaster (no good for this application it wont touch the carbon/varnish build up) only use Aero Kroil.
I dont know what penetrant you were using cant remember. I think you erred when you used an inferior tap (IRWIN) remember i told you i used a BLUE POINT tap i think this extremely important I doubt you would have broke a blue point or snap on or mac tap.
maybe others can learn from our mistakes. therefore not a total loss .
MBB if you get that broke tap out dont give up get you a really really good tap and go back at it.. I have had my blue points in some tough stuff already like stainless and grade 5 metals and never broke one yet .. best of luck to all
My first mistake was using incorrect penetrant. I used pb blaster (no good for this application it wont touch the carbon/varnish build up) only use Aero Kroil.
I dont know what penetrant you were using cant remember. I think you erred when you used an inferior tap (IRWIN) remember i told you i used a BLUE POINT tap i think this extremely important I doubt you would have broke a blue point or snap on or mac tap.
maybe others can learn from our mistakes. therefore not a total loss .
MBB if you get that broke tap out dont give up get you a really really good tap and go back at it.. I have had my blue points in some tough stuff already like stainless and grade 5 metals and never broke one yet .. best of luck to all
#67
Originally Posted by boots6868
MBB I too broke a plug and was trying to advise you on extraction .. We should help others by showing what we might have done wrong to cause our headache. I can get us started here with what I know by now.
My first mistake was using incorrect penetrant. I used pb blaster (no good for this application it wont touch the carbon/varnish build up) only use Aero Kroil.
I dont know what penetrant you were using cant remember. I think you erred when you used an inferior tap (IRWIN) remember i told you i used a BLUE POINT tap i think this extremely important I doubt you would have broke a blue point or snap on or mac tap.
maybe others can learn from our mistakes. therefore not a total loss .
MBB if you get that broke tap out dont give up get you a really really good tap and go back at it.. I have had my blue points in some tough stuff already like stainless and grade 5 metals and never broke one yet .. best of luck to all
My first mistake was using incorrect penetrant. I used pb blaster (no good for this application it wont touch the carbon/varnish build up) only use Aero Kroil.
I dont know what penetrant you were using cant remember. I think you erred when you used an inferior tap (IRWIN) remember i told you i used a BLUE POINT tap i think this extremely important I doubt you would have broke a blue point or snap on or mac tap.
maybe others can learn from our mistakes. therefore not a total loss .
MBB if you get that broke tap out dont give up get you a really really good tap and go back at it.. I have had my blue points in some tough stuff already like stainless and grade 5 metals and never broke one yet .. best of luck to all
#68
I called my local dealer and they quoted me $189 to do the plugs. If the plugs break he said it would run about an additional hour of labor per broke plug at $105/hr. I dont know whether to bring it somewhere or try it myself. The problem I have with someone else doing the work is that they wouldnt take as much care with my truck and not care if plugs broke...they dont have to pay to fix it. I would like to attempt them myself but these threads worry me.
#69
Originally Posted by black04lariat
I called my local dealer and they quoted me $189 to do the plugs. If the plugs break he said it would run about an additional hour of labor per broke plug at $105/hr. I dont know whether to bring it somewhere or try it myself. The problem I have with someone else doing the work is that they wouldnt take as much care with my truck and not care if plugs broke...they dont have to pay to fix it. I would like to attempt them myself but these threads worry me.
#70
Originally Posted by KevinAH
My opinion is that its not driving habits, its a sh#@%&y design. We should probably just realize that and know that argument can be made for both sides of the coin for a heavy foot or a light foot or Chevron or Arco or whatever other gas there is.
Dale
#72
The one thing I have noticed is the time for the penetrating fluid to soak in, some guys let it soak for 10 minutes others 3 hours and also over night, what I'm wondering is how warm is the engine when they finally try to unscrew the plugs, I would guess that some engines are cold by now and that could be part of the problem.....
The TSB says to remove sparkplugs while the engine is warm, I would interpet that the engine temp should be around 100 to 140 degrees.... Right???
Ulf
The TSB says to remove sparkplugs while the engine is warm, I would interpet that the engine temp should be around 100 to 140 degrees.... Right???
Ulf
#73
Originally Posted by Ulf
The one thing I have noticed is the time for the penetrating fluid to soak in, some guys let it soak for 10 minutes others 3 hours and also over night, what I'm wondering is how warm is the engine when they finally try to unscrew the plugs, I would guess that some engines are cold by now and that could be part of the problem.....
The TSB says to remove sparkplugs while the engine is warm, I would interpet that the engine temp should be around 100 to 140 degrees.... Right???
Ulf
The TSB says to remove sparkplugs while the engine is warm, I would interpet that the engine temp should be around 100 to 140 degrees.... Right???
Ulf
#74
#75
Let me share your pain with these damn plugs. I have a 04 FX4 Supercab 4X4 that has a bad plug. #5.. why is #5 the biggest pain? Anyway back to sharing my pain. I have an Edge connected to my truck and that's how I know it the #5 cylinder. I brought my truck to my trusted and truley honest local mechanic. He followed the TSB procedure and still couldn't get that plug to budge. He said he didn't want to go any further with out the Rotunda tool just incase, like I've read here, the plug breaks. I called my local Ford dealer and asked them how much to change the plugs? Minimal of 3 hours labor at $70, if everything goes well. Of course we all know they take their time and soak our wallets. I also asked them if they every heard of this TSB. Basically they thought I was crazy and after giving them the number they finally found it and said we didn't know. The tool... ready to bend over and take it?? Backordered to after the first of the year... guess alot of people need it now. The best part... a list price of $190.00. What the hell?? I'm up in the air about letting one of my local Ford dealerships try... because of the money being soaked out of me with no guarantee that they won't screw up something and either the heads have to be pulled or even worse replaced. Anyone have any ideas??
Last edited by bomber468; 12-21-2007 at 05:12 AM.