ANYONE with Low Winter MPG try this.
#16
#17
Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
my eot is less then 180 as wel, i am lucky to hit 170 unloaded this time of year. i am debating the cardboard over the grill trick, do you guys run a comlete grill cover or just partial?
I can slide 1/2 of it open and closed according to usage.
The open/close setup in in front of the trans cooler.
With an IC you stuff cardboard behined the cooler.
Bill
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#19
OK.
GPR will remain on up to ONE MINUTE after starting to aid in smoke control.
If your dash lights "flutter" or "flare" you're looking at something else, like a bad headlight switch, or a crappy ground somewhere.
Starting the truck on one tank of fuel, driving it on another tank of fuel has told you one thing, a cold engine takes more fuel to run.
You're not saving anything by doing this. You're running through the front tank at a faster RATE, but your running the rear tank a LONGER INTERVAL. So you're skewing your fuel economy results.
Fuel economy falls in the winter time due to lack of heat. Less heat in the engine makes it use more fuel. Other fluids; trans, differential, t/c thicken up and produce more drag. Fuels change to more "light ends" so they atomize and evaporate faster in low temperatures, but these also burn quicker, resulting in less "work" being done by the fuel.
I'd advise do what I did... change from 15W40 mineral to 5W40 synthetic.
Change where you're buying your fuel. Different refiners can make a difference on how the fuel "works" Use a fuel Conditioner (Power Service, Stanadyne, etc)
Untill I can get the driveline fluids changed, I'm stuck right there.
I went from mid-15's, to less than 10 (see link), back to around 11.5mpg
GPR will remain on up to ONE MINUTE after starting to aid in smoke control.
If your dash lights "flutter" or "flare" you're looking at something else, like a bad headlight switch, or a crappy ground somewhere.
Starting the truck on one tank of fuel, driving it on another tank of fuel has told you one thing, a cold engine takes more fuel to run.
You're not saving anything by doing this. You're running through the front tank at a faster RATE, but your running the rear tank a LONGER INTERVAL. So you're skewing your fuel economy results.
Fuel economy falls in the winter time due to lack of heat. Less heat in the engine makes it use more fuel. Other fluids; trans, differential, t/c thicken up and produce more drag. Fuels change to more "light ends" so they atomize and evaporate faster in low temperatures, but these also burn quicker, resulting in less "work" being done by the fuel.
I'd advise do what I did... change from 15W40 mineral to 5W40 synthetic.
Change where you're buying your fuel. Different refiners can make a difference on how the fuel "works" Use a fuel Conditioner (Power Service, Stanadyne, etc)
Untill I can get the driveline fluids changed, I'm stuck right there.
I went from mid-15's, to less than 10 (see link), back to around 11.5mpg
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It seems there is some confusion as to why I performed this test.
This test was performed to show the diffirence in cold start updriving versus normal operating temp driving. It was obvious that there is a diffirence, but to actually show by how much.
Hopefully I didnot confuse to many people.
This test was performed to show the diffirence in cold start updriving versus normal operating temp driving. It was obvious that there is a diffirence, but to actually show by how much.
Hopefully I didnot confuse to many people.