Here is the bottom of a head.



The small hole right below the valves, in the dark circles on the left three cylinders is the precup.
The precup pops out.
The piston crown at top dead center is the thickness of the head gasket below the head, which is flat on the bottom.

 

Dave them are niec pictures, i would have never imagined the bottom end of these looked so beefy!! them mains are massive! wow no wonder it handles all my abuse!!! Thank you very much for the pictures!!

i do have one other ? though.. do you know what the DRY weight of a ready to run 6.9 non turbo engine is? to be more specific.. with block, heads and intake , ip and such.. everything but liquids and accessories, like alt, power stteering pump, vacuum pump...

also is it normally necessery to replace head bolts when you blow a head gasket?


Ray

 

If you are using OEM bolts then yes, but ARP studs are reusable.

 

The head bolts are reusable. It has been confirmed, they are not TTY.
But usually the ones down by the exhaust manifolds are pitted.
Here's a pix of a head cut in half, and a shot of the precup

 

I believe the dry weight of the engine is right around 900lbs. The shipping wight on one at UPS was 990lbs with the palet and cover box with wood frame. Feels every bit of that on the cheap cheary picker we have.

 

Wow this is some great info! thanks allot guys! my buddie is always blaming my diesel engine for getting us stuck when we are 4x4'ng, i guess its only 200 lbs heavier then a 460! next time i will let him know if i left him at home it would weigh as much as a gas engine! hehehe

Ray

 

I am going to say a bit over 1000 pounds.
The figure I normally use is 1200 pounds.

I have a heavy duty engine hoist, tow behind model it is so big.
It will not pick the engine up when in the 1000 pound position.
The 1500 pound position gives the hoist about all it wants just getting the oil pan over the front bumper.
And even though it is as wide as the truck, the legs just go inside the front wheels, I will not raise the engine over the radiator shell with it.
To much weight way to high in the air on my 4x4.
When I use an engine hoist, the radiator shell comes off the truck.

To go in the top, it has to be on a chain hoist attached to something very solid or I want nothing to do with it.
To much twisting and turning the engine to get it in and out going the top way so it will clear the radiator shell unless you leave the crank pulley and water pump off till it is in the truck.
Then you have to stand on your head to install them.

 

ive picked my engine and tranny up togeather at the 2nd lowest setting on my chinese picker.. i think its 1 ton.. with all accessories on it.. and np435 cast iron trans




ray

 

Yanked mine with a 1.5 ton chain hoist that was attached to the main beam of out shop, since we have a 13F ceiling, the engine came out easily without removing the core support, But I'm not sure if I can get away with that if I have the turbo pack on when it goes in. The beam in the shop was fir 2x12 stacked 4 and less than 4 feet from a steel pillar.

 

I have installed mine with a chain hoist with the turbo and turbo up pipe on the engine.
I also had the water pump and crank pulleys on.
You have to turn the engine front to the drivers side about 50 degrees, then lower it untill the water pump shaft is below the top of the radiator support before you turn it like it is supposed to sit.

Oil pan and cross member, water pump and radiator support, turbo and firewall are the three main trouble spots.
Once you get the engine wrestled into place, you will see why I don't feel comfortable using a cherry picker type hoist going over the top.

 

I'd remove the radiator,and the top of the radiator support. 4-10MM bolts, and it comes right off.

 

Ok, I rechecked the weight of the 7.3 at work today and the shipping tag said 994lbs with the pallet. this was the t444e engine with the turbo mounted. I don't believe the idi weighs more than this engine. The diesel stop says the dry weight is 920 lbs for the t444e also. I know it feels like alot of weight. On the 1/2 ton setting, i have to hold the hoist so it doesn't tip over. All the acceseries and brackets, fly wheel , clutch ect probably add more than 200lbs but as for dry weight I think its around 900lbs

 

I'm with Dave on this one. Maybe our lifts have been used too much in the past but my standard engine lift (Marked by the mfg as a 2 ton.. lol.. right) began to bend on me when removing my engine. I ended up using my chain fall mounted to the steal beam in my garage. I also removed the radiator and condenser but left the core support.

 

Well, either way, I don't like the way are lifts look with that kind of load. even though of the high rating. I wonder if they are (OSHA) APPOVED???!!!! I think ours is made in china. Every time you move it, it pops and cracks and the engine bounces while the lift arm bows. Although I was in the 1/2 ton position. I finally used a forklift on my last engine pull. Works very well yet rarly avalible.

 

Update.....Change of plan. After attempting to hone the cylinders, I realized that the bores all have some scuffng, and even some corrsion that cannot be honned out, so I guess I'm getting a 20 tho overbore afterall. Not good with math, does this make it a 7.0 now???