I had a look at the hydrogen boost site. It looks like kwik is on the right track with the plates (they reffer to as cells), and the limiting factor would be how much heat is produced by the plates vs the size of the bucket (amount of water), making the water boil.
I think I'll wait for more to test / report before I consider doing this. If I was going to do it, one thing I would do is use a relay and connect it to the output from the glow plug relays. This way if the glow plugs were energized the hydrogen system would not be. Yes a manual switch could be used, but one accidental hit of the manual switch could turn a $10K motor into a flame thrower.
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I've made a generator before with the plates made out of stainless countertop material. It worked well, but if too much soda the water gets warm very quickly making steam instead of H.
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I think I'll wait for more to test / report before I consider doing this. If I was going to do it, one thing I would do is use a relay and connect it to the output from the glow plug relays. This way if the glow plugs were energized the hydrogen system would not be. Yes a manual switch could be used, but one accidental hit of the manual switch could turn a $10K motor into a flame thrower.
If you use a manual SPDT switch (ON-OFF-ON), one of the "ONs" is the GPs, the opposite "ON" is the Hydrogen...
I served aboard two subs when I was in the Navy. We had oxygen generators to make oxygen from distilled water. Use of distilled water is preferable to prevent corrosion. However, distilled water is NOT a good conductor of electricity. Tap water will conduct electricity fine due to all the crap in it, but in pure, distilled water there aren’t enough free electrons to for good conduction. We used HIGH voltage to separate the oxygen and hydrogen atoms. This process is called electrolysis. As noted below, you must add an electrolyte in order to facilitate the separation of the hydrogen and the oxygen. Treadwell manufactures these units for the Navy. Of course, we had no use for the hydrogen. We only used the oxygen.
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If you really want to engineer a system, google electrolysis of water and see how systems are built. No need to duplicate the wheel, ewe know?
Sounds awesome, but this is a DANGEROUS thang. Let's make sure that safety is number one. You will notice on the system below that they use a cathode and an anode. This will separate the oxygen to one part and the hydrogen to another part of the system. In the system WE are discussing, we are using both gases at the same time.
This will be neat to figure out. Nice topic. See what kinda ideas people come up with.
Electrolysis of water is the decomposition of water (H2O) into oxygen (O2) and hydrogen gas (H2) due to an electric current being passed through the water. This electrolytic process is used in some industrial applications when hydrogen is needed.>>
An electrical power source is connected to two electrodes, or two plates, (typically made from some inert metal such as platinum or stainless steel) which are placed in the water. Hydrogen will appear at the cathode (the negatively charged electrode, where electrons are pumped into the water), and oxygen will appear at the anode (the positively charged electrode). The generated amount of hydrogen is twice the amount of oxygen, and both are proportional to the total electrical charge that was sent through the water.>>
Electrolysis of pure water is very slow; it is sped up dramatically by adding an electrolyte (such as a salt, an acid or a base).>>
Jumping in here a little late in the game but this does peak some interest. As far as the plate seperation, I would suggest nylon nuts and bolts, they will hold up to substantial vibration, and insulate very well.
The duct tape safety blow off is excellent as well, I was thinking along the lines of a rubber grommet blank, similar to what is in the bed of our trucks now.
As for the electronics, I like the pedal switch idea, that along with a bit of logic the generation would only be on when it would be useful. The other option could be to use a map sensor, duplicate, and use it to control a few sets of transistors. This would regulate the current but by the time you buy the transistor stout enough for the current control, this isn't such a cheap option. I think using several relays in series to control a main on/off relay would be the best option.
I own a 06 LBZ(360 hp) Duramax and a 99 7.3. The duramax is faster.
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06 LBZ Duramax EC SB LT3, Banks exhaust, Sirus, Rhino liner , RDS aux Tank, 88,000 mi, PPE Standard
lol... No, we met when I was down in Panama City earlier this year and I took him for a ride. He was the one that said "I don't know..... You might be able to take me."
His DMax isn't tuned (at least it wasn't then), and we had a nice chat at the Starbucks before I took him for a ride. Good guy!!
Lookin71, thanks for that post. Great information and I like doing some homework before I start out on something new like this.
I've been more than a little concerned about having the H and the O gasses in the same pipe. Playing around with acetylene and oxygen ballons for some Independance Day festivities have taught me the strength of exploding gasses. Hence the large duct tape blow off valve idea. I also would want to minimize the total air space in the bucket if at all possible, but not sure how to maintain that.
Now this cathode/anode and the H coming off of the cathode and the O coming off of the anode, that makes me wonder how the big sub generators do it. With two different chambers and some very high voltage?
I haven't read that Wiki write up yet, it's probably expained there.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Is there a reason we need to keep those gases separated? Sending both to the intake is what we want, right? The drawing in the Wiki post (below) has them separated. Dan --> I can visualize two buckets with a plate in the bottom of each. A piece of PVC pipe connects the two with a tee in the middle and another piece of PVC extending above the bucket water level. But again, that's only if we need to keep the two separated.
Here's the Wiki pic:
Also, I just found out I'm working pretty much the whole next month with Christmas Day and New Years Day off. Not much time to work on this, unfortunately. Dang customers and their demand of our products...
This also might be a good motivation to convert to dual alternators.
Depends on the payoff. If this mod increases the fuel mileage enough to pay for the expense, I'll make a huge one that will sit behind the fuel tank between it and the 5th wheel hitch and is powered by the second alternator. Rest areas have plenty of water and I could pull up to the dump area and fill my water tank.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
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