Here are some additional thoughts we need to keep in mind.
1. This "Brown's gas" is a mixture of oxygen AND hydrogen, and it is EXPLOSIVE. Do NOT ever forget that part!! This means that parkland's efforts at building a storage tank is very risky.... it will be a bomb waiting to explode unless things are done very, VERY carefully. The flame arrestor is a valid issue on this point, and might even be worth including in the general design for the "non-storage" system.
2. What about including an auto-power down feature tied to s signal fomr the PCM so that generation stops once the engine is either down or just idling?
3. How about using a variable signal to generate a variable voltage input so that the gas to air ratio entering the intake remains constant under varying loads?
4. Finally... a remote on/off switch in the cab so you can take the power off whenever you feel it might be necessary.
To determine these controls features, we need to get a definition of the Lower Explosive Limit (LEL) for Brown's gas, and under what temperatures this is an issue. We also need to closely approximate the rate of gas generation versus applied voltage and electrode surface area (whether plates are overkill or not). Another point is where the best control signal should come from... boost gauge (to determine feed ratio based on air intake), MAF, rpm, fuel flow, etc., and then determine how to make that variable signal control the gas generation rate proportionately. Get the concentration too high in a hot intake system and something's going to BLOW!
Yeah the surface area is a LOT larger, perhaps only two plates a positive and a negative would only be necessary.
Mostly looking for something rugged and long lasting right now.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
I have a couple of questions to the origional poster. 1 Have you measured current to see how much current is being consumed during your process? 2 What is your fuse rated at?
Put a switch on the dash and don't turn it on until you are underway. That circuit should also pass through a throttle position switch that kills the power at idle.
Something like this would work nicely.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Also, I probably will end up stationing the bucket outside of the cabinet on my truck, in the bed, for a while just in case it decides to blow the lid off the bucket for some reason. Probably will also cut a big hole in the lid of the bucket that I will tape shut with some duct tape as a safety "blow off valve". It's a lot easier to retape a 6" hole shut and change my shorts, than to try and replace a cracked bucket.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Payback on one of those systems for me, driving at 23,000 miles per year, is somewhere between 1.0 and 1.5 years. I don't have the spare cash to invest in one, and it's a whole lot more fun to "build your own".
How much water does it take? Do you need a 5 gallon bucket or could it be done with something smaller, easier to store?
Need to insulate the bucket in cold climates, or at least heat it off the pickups heater somehow. Could even put a heater in to keep it thawed at night when the pickups plugged in I guess.
Also, I probably will end up stationing the bucket outside of the cabinet on my truck, in the bed, for a while just in case it decides to blow the lid off the bucket for some reason. Probably will also cut a big hole in the lid of the bucket that I will tape shut with some duct tape as a safety "blow off valve". It's a lot easier to retape a 6" hole shut and change my shorts, than to try and replace a cracked bucket.
That's what I had in mind, also Dan. I was actually thinking about a water hose connection on top with a valve in the bottom for easy drain & refill. It would keep you from having to disturb everything inside removing the top to empty & refill. The hose connection on top could easily be used as the "blow-off/shorts-saver" valve...
This concept is very interesting and pretty cool. BUT, I have a couple of questions about the theory. 1. when you burn hydrogen I understand it turns back into water. water is very bad in our engine's cylinders, and probably turbo. 2. like people have mentioned, hydrogen is very explosive, I think more so than gasoline. I wouldn't be putting gasoline into the intake. 3. does parkland have any gauges to tell the egt's. I hear alot of talk about this with the addition of chips and still using diesel, let alone burning another fuel source.
Any combustion reaction starting with hydrocarbons (gas or diesel) produces water. Unlike combustion of hydrogen, they also produce carbon dioxide. I have heard of guys doing this process with high compression gasoline motors.
So how is this going to effect our carbon credits, taking water and making a bunch of CO2? (sarcasm alert)
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Maybe i missed something in the post, but do u you need to regulate how much hydrogen is introduced into the intake or does it really matter? Would it have to be done b4 the filter or would it matter if u did it after the air filter?
I used a search engine and found a "shade tree inventor" that built an H2 Generator using Stainless Steel Cover Plates (like switch plates, only blanks). He used a bunch of them, but few may be just as effective.
I too will be working to build one of these. My concern is: what is the optimal location to flow the Browne's Gas into the air flow system?
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fueled .
