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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2007, 09:14 PM
Dustin1690 Dustin1690 is offline
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Dustin1690 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE. Dustin1690 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Awesome job beating the duramax that hydrogen system sounds interesting
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My Truck:
1993 F150 XLT Reg cab Long box 351 (5.8L) E4OD 2wd 3.55 non limited slip axle factory ten hole aluminum rims

Dad's Truck:
1992 F150 XLT Supercab Short box 302 (5.0l) E4OD 2wd 3.55 non limited slip axle factory five star wheels

2006 F150 XLT Supercrew 5.5ft box XTR 5.4l 4R75E 3.73 LS 4x4
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2007, 09:16 PM
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I guess i better start explaining the pics... As you can see... a bucket.

I didnt take it apart, because it's siliconed shut. All the wires go down and are held in place by a plastic disk( made from another pale lid)

It has a 120v plug, as the truck has a 120v receptical, but its 12v from the bat.
just used the plug so its easy to remove.

the bucket also has a "bung" that i melted on using a soldering iron.

I add water through the gas hose by disconnecting it from the truck and puring it in.

Sorry for every wire being green, wasnt exactly designeing it to be easy to understand...

The coat hanger wires stick up out of the lid(all siliconed up) and are bent in such a way that i wound hay twine around them to keep them all in place...
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2007, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by parkland
What does "joining us supporters" entail?

Chris (f350-6) is posting the pics THANKS!!!
Click the "Supporter" button on this post. It's worth every penny!! BTW, I think I can handle building that. I may have to give it a run myself!!
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:18 PM
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Tried to dim the flash on a couple of them. I didn't do it first because I know how impatient some can be.
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:24 PM
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The black tube thing in the first pic is my brand new experiment: a hydrogen compression tank.

An air pump will suck the gas from the generator, and compress it into the tank. Then, i will rig up a regulator going to the intake instead of the airbox.

Flame arrestors and anti-flashback devices will need to be used....

IF YOU MAKE A GENERATOR, USE STAINLESS STEEL RODS OR WIRES. Mine turns the water all rust color and the rods are corroding badly!
Coat hangers are not the ideal choice! I knew this when i built it, but i dont have any stainless steel wire or rods....

I left the duct-taped air box on the truck to the imagination (plug is friggin cold out!!)

Oh yeah, remember, the generator left in the truck box at sub zero will freeze solid when not running. (its water)

Any questions ?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2007, 09:37 PM
rmilchman rmilchman is offline
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Is it tap water or distilled? How much water do you actually go through? What if you added a small heater to the tank to solve the freezing problem? Of course, you would probably be left with a dead battery.
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:41 PM
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Stainless rods can be purchased at any good welding supply in 3 foot lengths and any diameter less than 1/4 inch very reasonable
Great thread
Thanks
Jim
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:10 PM
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Who is going to blow themself up first? Hope it's not me, I want to be second! How long does the water last?
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2007, 06:57 AM
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We either need to call this the parkland back to the future mod, or the kaboom mod depending on how things turn out.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2007, 07:15 AM
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Since you can't solder to stainless, you'll need a different means of connecting the wires. I'm thinking about using copper for the whole thing since it will pass current better than stainless.

You DEFINITELY DON'T want distilled. The idea is to have lots of minerals in there to help pass the current between the rods. Pure water is actually a good insulator -- it's the mineral content that causes it to pass current.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2007, 09:16 AM
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I'm thinking that it would be a more long lasting design if you were to use SS plates obtained from somewhere and then sandwich them using plastic washers for separation. The washers could be stepped shape like a top hat and then drill holes in the plates to accept the smaller step. Have as many layers as you want, or can fit in the bucket. Alternate the connection between the plates +,-,+,-,+,-, etc in similar fashion to the way that a battery is designed. Run long bolts through the washers and plates to hold it all together as a unit and lower it into the bucket.
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Last edited by Kwikkordead; 12-12-2007 at 09:44 AM.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2007, 09:50 AM
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So who's the electrical guru that can figure out proper sizing & spacing of the plates? We also need an idea on the ratio of exposed plates to quantity of water.

I like the idea of the plates Dan. You could spot weld small pieces of stainless steel sheet metal to your plates and use plug connectors for your wiring.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2007, 09:54 AM
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Having a lot of trouble getting a Webshots image to post. I don't know if it's FTE blocking Webshots or the other way around. Either way it's

Here's a picture that I posted from my Comcast account just to get it to show.

Sorry about the crude hand drawing, but it get's the basic design idea across.
I made enlarged drawing of the washers below in the way that I am thinking it would work for the whole assembly.
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1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2007, 09:56 AM
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Here's a link to the Webshots album, one of the pictures is 1024x768 if you want to see high resolution.
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561750357EJoFQg
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2007, 09:58 AM
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My thoughts are that the plates will be overkill. If he's getting enough H with coat hanger wire, I think you may have a big burst of it suddenly with that design. Now, it's also a possibility that with that design you wouldn't need the baking soda to increase the conductivity of the water... Worth a shot.
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