I guess i better start explaining the pics... As you can see... a bucket.
I didnt take it apart, because it's siliconed shut. All the wires go down and are held in place by a plastic disk( made from another pale lid)
It has a 120v plug, as the truck has a 120v receptical, but its 12v from the bat.
just used the plug so its easy to remove.
the bucket also has a "bung" that i melted on using a soldering iron.
I add water through the gas hose by disconnecting it from the truck and puring it in.
Sorry for every wire being green, wasnt exactly designeing it to be easy to understand...
The coat hanger wires stick up out of the lid(all siliconed up) and are bent in such a way that i wound hay twine around them to keep them all in place...
The black tube thing in the first pic is my brand new experiment: a hydrogen compression tank.
An air pump will suck the gas from the generator, and compress it into the tank. Then, i will rig up a regulator going to the intake instead of the airbox.
Flame arrestors and anti-flashback devices will need to be used....
IF YOU MAKE A GENERATOR, USE STAINLESS STEEL RODS OR WIRES. Mine turns the water all rust color and the rods are corroding badly!
Coat hangers are not the ideal choice! I knew this when i built it, but i dont have any stainless steel wire or rods....
I left the duct-taped air box on the truck to the imagination (plug is friggin cold out!!)
Oh yeah, remember, the generator left in the truck box at sub zero will freeze solid when not running. (its water)
Is it tap water or distilled? How much water do you actually go through? What if you added a small heater to the tank to solve the freezing problem? Of course, you would probably be left with a dead battery.
__________________
2002 F-350 4X4 CC PSD. straight pipe, k&n air box, tuner, 203 thermostat, mag-hytek tranny pan, tranny springs and valve, ranchhand bumper, air horns
Stainless rods can be purchased at any good welding supply in 3 foot lengths and any diameter less than 1/4 inch very reasonable
Great thread
Thanks
Jim
Since you can't solder to stainless, you'll need a different means of connecting the wires. I'm thinking about using copper for the whole thing since it will pass current better than stainless.
You DEFINITELY DON'T want distilled. The idea is to have lots of minerals in there to help pass the current between the rods. Pure water is actually a good insulator -- it's the mineral content that causes it to pass current.
__________________ Joe 02 F250 XLT CC SB 7.3L PSD 2WD Auto It’s got some mods.
I'm thinking that it would be a more long lasting design if you were to use SS plates obtained from somewhere and then sandwich them using plastic washers for separation. The washers could be stepped shape like a top hat and then drill holes in the plates to accept the smaller step. Have as many layers as you want, or can fit in the bucket. Alternate the connection between the plates +,-,+,-,+,-, etc in similar fashion to the way that a battery is designed. Run long bolts through the washers and plates to hold it all together as a unit and lower it into the bucket.
__________________
Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Last edited by Kwikkordead; 12-12-2007 at 09:44 AM.
So who's the electrical guru that can figure out proper sizing & spacing of the plates? We also need an idea on the ratio of exposed plates to quantity of water.
I like the idea of the plates Dan. You could spot weld small pieces of stainless steel sheet metal to your plates and use plug connectors for your wiring.
Having a lot of trouble getting a Webshots image to post. I don't know if it's FTE blocking Webshots or the other way around. Either way it's
Here's a picture that I posted from my Comcast account just to get it to show.
Sorry about the crude hand drawing, but it get's the basic design idea across.
I made enlarged drawing of the washers below in the way that I am thinking it would work for the whole assembly.
__________________
Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
__________________
Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
My thoughts are that the plates will be overkill. If he's getting enough H with coat hanger wire, I think you may have a big burst of it suddenly with that design. Now, it's also a possibility that with that design you wouldn't need the baking soda to increase the conductivity of the water... Worth a shot.
__________________ Joe 02 F250 XLT CC SB 7.3L PSD 2WD Auto It’s got some mods.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.