Just heard a guy saying he was "Ridding" his 92 buick of sensors by jumping resistors over the sensor.
Dont the resistances NEED to change, to make the engine run good?
You can do that to the rear "tattle tale" sensor and get away with it.
There is a lot of sensor eliminator kits available on Ebay for "off road use only".
Do any other sensors like that and the thing will run like crap if it runs at all.
The rear sensor is post catalytic converter and it's only function in life is to monitor whether the cat is working or not.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Just an Idea... and i can't quite remember if it has been addressed here but about the O2 sensors... and the turbo for that matter...
What if we add the induction spot after the intercool but before the engine... so right before the Elbow... (actually CFM+ sells mods to make this elbow smoother because in higher power applications this is a power robbing part. They sell then with up to 3 import tabs, I have seen, to add things such as nitro, water injection, water / meth etc.) Do they put the induction points here because the they don't want to have to mess the O2 sensors?
Just a thought but if we add it hear it seems to me to eliminate the o2 sensers adding more fuels all together.
Thanks for the input,
Alex
An oxygen sensor is useless on a diesel engine. They don't operate at 14.7/1 air fuel ratio, but rather the fuel ratio is all over the map depending on engine load.
They don't even have a throttle body, just a wide open intake manifold. The engine output is directly controlled by how much fuel is injected at each injection event.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
Hey Dan, eccentric question, but do you think a butterfly valve on the diesel intake could quiet it some during idle & low revs? Or would that not produce enough compression to ignite??
I mean, for OTHER people. I like my grunting and clacking 7.3....
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
Hummmm... So it should'nt even matter how much HHO gas is injected?
I'm still learning everyday about these things... lol looks like I really don't know much about em. huh.
The Mass airflow sensor dosent measure O2 contant... just cfm imput?
Wow.. so if thats true it really wouldn't matter how much HHO is taken in by the engine... Just temp of the Combustion chambers and timing of ignition based upon how much is injected....
or would timing even be an issue in a diesel as they don't spark. Instead the HHO with the higher flash point dosent ignite until the diesel has first???
I was just asking about if the timeing of ignition would even be an issue in a diesel??? Because it ignites only afterward the diesel due to the higher flash point.
But when injecting HHO gas into the Combustion chambers it will heat them up higher then they are designed for... right? And could pose a problem with melting holes in piston heads, gaskets, etc etc....
So a standard water methonal injection system could fix this potential problem?
According to Parkland's results the HHO system resulted in lower EGTs instead of higher.
The burning of hydrogen produces water vapor, so maybe thats part of the reason. As I understand it, this system simply makes the fuel burn more completely and probably a bit faster too. That could pe part of the reason for reduced EGTs, becasue more of the fuel is getting burned in the chamber instead of near the exhaust port where it can cause EGTs to rise.
All just theory of course, I don't know for sure whats happening. I'm not sure if anyone really does though.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel, Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
Hey Dan, eccentric question, but do you think a butterfly valve on the diesel intake could quiet it some during idle & low revs? Or would that not produce enough compression to ignite??
I mean, for OTHER people. I like my grunting and clacking 7.3....
Perhaps.
I know that some of the old MB deisels have them and I cannot for the life of me figure out why.
What is REALLY odd to me is if you open up that same butterfly valve on that old MB without allowing the injection pump lever to move the engine will still speed up. I spent a long time one day with one trying to understand the design and gave up after a while without success.
.
The VW TDI's have them, but only to eliminate engine shudder when you turn the engine off. It softens the compression in the cylinders and it really makes the turn off event a lot more civilized. None of that 400 psi compression lurching going on. It also serves as a perfect runaway engine cut out. Simply turn the key off and the solinoid closes the valve.
Voi·lą engine is stopped. (That IS the correct spelling for that word!)
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
I have seen a couple air intake shut-offs triggered on a detroit series 40 and a series 60 on my old oil rig, and as soon as the air supply was cut back, the noise was suppressed, but those rig motors smoked like no tomorrow because they just fuel more trying to keep RPM's up. After 3 seconds or so, they come to a stop.
I think they smoke just because there was no electrical setup for the "kill" switch, simply an air intake cut off valve. So the engine wouldnt realize it was SUPPOSED to shut off, just ran itself out of air.
Once, we had a clogged air filter on the Series 60, and I guess the turbo boosted high enough that the entire filter collapsed!! (I'll bet engine not too far away from destruction!!!)
David85: I did not get lower EGT's. I took others advice on the fact. However, engine still in one piece after many H2 injected "super launches", and about 4000 KM's of normal driving on H2....
More to come this summer.
I'm glad everyone sparked such an interest in this, because I'm not an "environmentalist" per se, however, if you can +MPG, +HP, and even +emission control, what more could you want...A simple do-it-yourself project that really works?!?!?!
Good luck to anyone trying this, read lots, be careful, and post questions to myself or others here, FTE has some smart cookies, even more smart-ish and cookie-ish than myself. Please be careful, - but not scared, if that makes any sense. I consider myself a fairly average person with a "inventive" trait, and the desire to learn. If you have patience and do some basic learning, you WILL get a working H2 generator in your truck, and tune it up good to boost you're MPG enough to make it worth while.
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
Oops, I stand corrected. I thought you mentioned earlier that the EGTs were lower. I have a small generator made, but haven't had the time to do anything with it yet (work has been piling up). So close I can taste it
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel, Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
Guys,
I know a good bit about hydrogen production and IC motors.
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I am not being negative...It can and will work...but in diesels without mods you will completely destroy you motor.
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One thing to keep in mind ...hydro burned in the head=WATER...more than you think...not good for our diesels.
So, I guess all those guys injecting "REAL, LIQUID WATER" into their turbo diesel engines to cool things down at high pressures, and those using it in gas engines as an anti knock solution are destroying their engines?
Better let them know because their lack of failures seems to contradict your, um, theory, on hydrogen turning into enough water to screw things up.
One guy is injecting straight water into a Ford Fiesta with a 14,7:1 compression ratio to act as a detonation suppressor for the pump gasoline to squeeze more miles per gallon and is doing it and has run tens of thousands of miles so far, engine still running!
Also, if water converted into browns gas expands something like 18,000 times it's liquid volume, then injecting such a small amount of Browns gas should be NOTHING compared to injecting straight liquid water!
At first glance your statement did not add up.
I then read several pages and can't believe someone has yet to questioned you on this!
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
I think you guys are trying to look at HHO, Brown's Gas as if it were water in a different form. True water injected into an engine will lower the combustion temperature. It does this by simply boiling. Heat is absorbed to convert from liquid to a gas (steam). No chemical reaction is involved. HHO however is a totally different story. HHO is the perfect mixture for combustion or rather EXPLOSION. The amount of HHO injected is so small that it enhances the combustion of the fuel causing it to burn in the cylinder where it produces usable work not in the exhaust where it adds to EGT. The nature of hydrogen allows it to combust at a very wide range of A/F. HHO is only useful as a combustion enhancer in a diesel because it has to be ignited by a high temperature, the fuel self igniting. It effectively advances the timing. Too much of a good thing and you will have detonation in the diesel with all of the same damaging effects it has in a gasser. If you retard the timing on your diesel to accomodate a lot of HHO, your diesel will not start. Catch 22 for diesel HHO. Agasser has to be retarded to ~ 10 deg after TDC to prevent detonation. Now if you want to slow the HHO down you might try injecting water. You had better know what you are doing because major damage can occur in a heart beat with HHO. If you're interested check the WATERCAR forum on yahoo.
@ TraderJ and Marianna2003, pardon me while I do irreperable damage to my motor.
@ parkland What are you using to compress the browns gas? I also used a 5 gallon bucket with two cylinders made of stainless steel screen wire. I got a cheap amp gauge from harbor freight. It indicates that I am pulling around 50 amps. it took two minutes to to fill a plastic sandwich bag. I am thinking about pulling a vacuume to see of that increases production.
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