You COULD even use a 1é2 or 3é4 hose from the generator to the intake, and a small air filter on the generator so that the hydrogen oxygen mix is diluted right from the get-go.
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
soduim hydroxide is not my forte. I am not interested in using it because like many others, I like projects that:
1.work, and
2.can be made from a trip to home hardware and the grocery store.
I mean, you could go buy 200,000$ worth of photovoltaic panels, build a hydrogen gnerator, and never pay for gas again! You could convert a f150 to run on 100% hydrogen. Ford had one, it was a 5.4 with supercharger. (for testing, not production)
I started this thread so people could see how 5$ of parts and a little tinkering could make the mileage go up on the PSD. I did'nt intend to get into exact figures, or rocket science.
Hence, the reason you keep seeing me type simpler instructions than the geniuses we have around here, which dont get me wrong, I think it's great that they're here, just that only 10% of people reading those posts will understand that this "generator" is a pail, and "reacting rods" are chunks of stainless steel, or even coat hangars.
Thats my 2.00$
Parkland,
I see you have hydrogen enhanced in your sig, how is this improving your milage-power, this thread has a lot of interesting info but I guess I missed how your system is doing in terms of numbers ( mpg-hp-etc). Don't get me wrong I know there is a reason they don't use unleaded gas to send the Shuttle up there. I have always beleived in the hydrogen from water Idea.
Edit: Sorry, it had been such a long time since I first read this thread I forgot about the DuDge that you sent a Packin. That was worth it right there. I went back to the first page and see you were getting 25 mpgs. Is that still about right? Or have you tested it much since then?
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Randy 2000' F250-CC-7.3 , 155k, no major mods-just fix it and drive it and haul stuff.
Last edited by Ridgerunner500; 04-24-2008 at 02:27 AM.
Reason: me bad
this whole idea isnt to "crack" free energy, just improve combustion using a cheap reaction.
MPG's could go up a couple miles per gallon, mine did quite a bit. I stopped testing for now,till its warm out again.
Hey parkland, good stuff. I am looking at doing one in my truck. As far as mpg goes it should go up. This application seems to work best on diesels. From what i have read if it doesn't there is a map sensor trick out there (especially for gassers) so the engine won't run richer from the o2 sensor.
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Dustan
1999.5 F350 7.3 Power Stroke Crew Cab 4x4 Long bed
Zperformance 90hp 6 setting module, AFE 4" turbo back exhaust, diy 6637 filter, stancor gpr, LT275/70R18, 3 pod pillar gauges, CCV mod, euro lights, hpx PAA Member #51 http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...9/189591.80.80
On a gas engine I'd even look into running her ever so slightly leaned out, because the h2 cools the combustion a little. Just this little trick may boost the gas mileage up even further.
AND Disconnect the EGR valve. And strightpipe it. AND if its a v8 gasser, add dual exhaust.
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
On a gas engine I'd even look into running her ever so slightly leaned out, because the h2 cools the combustion a little. Just this little trick may boost the gas mileage up even further.
AND Disconnect the EGR valve. And strightpipe it. AND if its a v8 gasser, add dual exhaust.
I recommend against doing this on a gas engine. The check engine light will come on and the engine will lose responsiveness at slight throttle settings. It may even reduce your fuel economy.
I tried it for about 3.5 miles on my 1995 F250 460 gasser and restored it right back to factory. It was very apperant, the difference, and it ran much better with the EGR connected. More power and a lot less throttle to maintain speed.
The fuel injection systems are designed with EGR in mind and they are optimized, expecting it to be there.
On the VW and Audi's that I work on there is a thermocouple mounted in the passage to monitor whether it is working or not.
Diesel is a different matter, get rid of it any way you can. It will fill the intake manifold with soot.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
I just removed the EGR valve off a 92 grand prix v6, and removed the solenoids, and replaced the mounting plate thing with a thick wad of aluminum foil to prevent exhaust leaking out, or air leaking into the intake.
Car runs better, mileage SEEMs better.... (i need to replace the coil packs i think, cause it runs perfect for a bit, then starts missing, no power...)
However, Dan, you've made a point overlooked by myself, that the computer may be anticipating the egr valve working, thus may not work on every vehicle.
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
I recommend against doing this on a gas engine. The check engine light will come on and the engine will lose responsiveness at slight throttle settings. It may even reduce your fuel economy.
I tried it for about 3.5 miles on my 1995 F250 460 gasser and restored it right back to factory. It was very apperant, the difference, and it ran much better with the EGR connected. More power and a lot less throttle to maintain speed.
The fuel injection systems are designed with EGR in mind and they are optimized, expecting it to be there.
On the VW and Audi's that I work on there is a thermocouple mounted in the passage to monitor whether it is working or not.
Diesel is a different matter, get rid of it any way you can. It will fill the intake manifold with soot.
Dan, i work for Vw and cant tell you how many of these we see. I have a customer who has an 03 jetta tdi with 9500 miles. He brings it in every 1000 miles for an oil change due to age not miles. I asked him to please let me buy it from him and he says "NO". We clean the egr and remove the intake as a service down here, the newer TDI's tend to have absolutely no power if gunk starts building up on it.
No engine SHOULD run better with an EGR valve, but because of computer programming and electronic rat nests full of wires and connectors and sensors, they do.
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
Dan, i work for Vw and cant tell you how many of these we see. I have a customer who has an 03 jetta tdi with 9500 miles. He brings it in every 1000 miles for an oil change due to age not miles. I asked him to please let me buy it from him and he says "NO". We clean the egr and remove the intake as a service down here, the newer TDI's tend to have absolutely no power if gunk starts building up on it.
I was wondering how the new common rails would hold up. Sorry to hear that, but not surprised about the power.
Are the manifolds easy to remove on those like the '98-03' pump models?
.
This is a copy of some text that I sent as a PM to another user.
Quote:
Something I've done to my TDI.
I bought a different MAF for the car, it's an updated version of the original, part number 0.280.217.121.
I then disabled the EGR and went into the computer and set the EGR adapation to the lowest possible flow rate.
I've been driving it for several days now with the EGR disconnected and no check engine light at the readiness code is set, meaning that the car has gone through all the self tests and it is satisfied that all the systems are operating correctly.
Even with the EGR disconnected.
I don't know if you have "permission" to do something like that where you work, but so far I have driven my car for a week, the readiness code is set and the MIL is still off.
I did notice a very slight drop in power and I am considering putting the other MAF back in to see if it "takes" or not.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
I was wondering how the new common rails would hold up. Sorry to hear that, but not surprised about the power.
Are the manifolds easy to remove on those like the '98-03' pump models?
I don't know if you have "permission" to do something like that where you work, but so far I have driven my car for a week, the readiness code is set and the MIL is still off.
I did notice a very slight drop in power and I am considering putting the other MAF back in to see if it "takes" or not.
The factory does not want us touching or messing with egr functions (although we sometimes do) I would definately put the old maf on it. We are having problems with the 5.0 twin turbo tdi touaregs with the glow plugs coming apart, and let me tell you those are not fun to work on.
I'll let you know if the old MAF will take or not.
Sorry to hear about the Touarag. I've seen the V8 versions but not the TDI yet.
Being an independant usually means that I get the 5-10 year old cars in with the expired warrenty and not much high end stuff.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock.
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. God and Dog
We are having problems with the 5.0 twin turbo tdi touaregs with the glow plugs coming apart, and let me tell you those are not fun to work on.
I'm 6'5" and my hands are the size of bear paws, when i see any front wheel drive car, i get an instant back pain and the urge to get a strong vodka in me.
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
Just an Idea... and i can't quite remember if it has been addressed here but about the O2 sensors... and the turbo for that matter...
What if we add the induction spot after the intercool but before the engine... so right before the Elbow... (actually CFM+ sells mods to make this elbow smoother because in higher power applications this is a power robbing part. They sell then with up to 3 import tabs, I have seen, to add things such as nitro, water injection, water / meth etc.) Do they put the induction points here because the they don't want to have to mess the O2 sensors?
Just a thought but if we add it hear it seems to me to eliminate the o2 sensers adding more fuels all together.
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I have always beleived in the hydrogen from water Idea.
We clean the egr and remove the intake as a service down here, the newer TDI's tend to have absolutely no power if gunk starts building up on it.
