Also working on a "gassification" system to burn diesel/ any oil in a gasser!
(small 1/4 inch line wrapped around a red hot pipe, oil goes in one end, "gas" out the other end, which travels through a cooling coil, and into the air intake of the lawnmower. Almost sorta kinda works actually! Needs major work, but the motor will actually run smoke free if the gas/ air ratio is just right! This would mean, when i get a decent amount of gas coming out, and plug the air hole with my finger just right...) (Needs to be started on gas so far.) (have not checked spark plug yet, i expect at least a little buildup of crap).
Parkland,
I'm glad you are back on this thread. You seem like one of those inventor types that are always tinkering with things trying to find the simplest method of doing something super-productive.
I'm looking forward to hearing more about the diesel to gas idea you are working on.
I havent checked mpg's for a long time now, so much warming up that theres no point. (it is friggin cold here in manitoba)
Use stainless steel plates/ rods, and it should draw 10-15 amps. More baking soda=more amp draw.
I honestly have no idea about biodiesel+h2....I'd be careful though, could a chemical reaction take place to make the biodiesel change properties, would it matter if it's just going out the exhaust, I dont know. It is possible that the H2 may reduce combustion chamber temps enough to allow coking. Veg oil will run perfectly in a 7.3, provided it is really REALLY REAAAALY clean, and it is 180deg or better going into the heads. However, there is not much leeway for mistakes, and cooler combustion may not be very good. Truth is, I dont know.
You are right about possible coking problems with bio and direct injection diesels. Bio has a higher ignition resistance than petro, and the possibility for incomplete burn is higher. This is one reason why the old mercedes 300D is so popular as a bio conversion, it uses indirect injection. Have you tried using KOH as the electrolyte?
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel, Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
Its used in drain cleaner, oven cleaner, some engine degreaser, and is used to control the Ph in swimming pools. It needs to be handled with care (caustic), but would probably be more efficient than baking soda.
I ask becasue its also used as electrolyte in fuel cells (hydrogen, aluminum, and zinc among others). Dave S. popped the idea on another HHO thread.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel, Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
Its used in drain cleaner, oven cleaner, some engine degreaser, and is used to control the Ph in swimming pools. It needs to be handled with care (caustic), but would probably be more efficient than baking soda.
I ask becasue its also used as electrolyte in fuel cells (hydrogen, aluminum, and zinc among others). Dave S. popped the idea on another HHO thread.
I was just reading this in the guide post in the yahoo group WorkingWaterCar......
"Fill your booster with distilled water and NaOH or KOH ONLY. No tap water, salt water or rainwater! No table salt or baking soda! These materials will permanently damage the booster!"
They claim after a year of use with no signs of wear on the ss plates.
They have a lot of useful info, if you are serious about trying this you may want to join the group. If you are not familiar with Yahoo Groups you need to go to Yahoo.com, find the groups and join.
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'03 Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3l - Family Hauler Performance Mods: Superchips flashpaq set to Performance, slotted/dimpled rotors, Zoodad mod, Steveracer mod; D.I.Y. intake. Interior Mods: Alpine CDA-9883 Head Unit w/ SWI-JACK & iPod, Infinity & Polk 5x7, Sirius satellite, Alpine PKG-RSE2 10.2 Drop Down DVD w/ PS2 Slim.
In an electrolisys tank, no matter what youre additive is, NOH, baking soda, nothing, You''re gonna transfer metal from one terminal to the other.
A year with no degredation? come on. Mabye if it only ran once!
Obviously stainless degrades slower than coat hangers, but i doubt any metal will last too long without showing some signs of degradation.
Wether you use baking soda, or whatever, its not gonna boost efficiency of the generator. More electrolyte= more amps draw = more gas.
My intent of starting this thread was never to get into prepetual motion or free energy, just to generate a little hydrogen to boost combustion effeciency enough to overcome the drag needed for extra power from the alternator.
Sodium hydroxide reacts with water to make hydrogen . Vancouver based "ballard industries", originally powerballz inc, designed a system where a sodium hydroxide ball was dropped into a water tank, and made hydrogen, being burned by a internal combustion engine.
Sodium hydroxide cost money. Not only that, if youre on a trip, pack extra chemical?
The hydrogen "enhanced" concept i've been preaching, is merely an inexpensive project to boost the trucks mileage using free water, and cheap baking soda.
Besides, I live out in the country, and if i'm ordering any chemicals in bulk, itl be some flash powder to fix up a beaver dam or something. Not sodium hydroxide.
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
I believe Parkland is mis-stating what was going on. If you drop Sodium into water, it will produce hydrogen and sodium hydroxide. A nice trick except the sodium is very dangerous and expensive. The byproduct is not pleasant and can be difficult to get rid of.
soduim hydroxide is not my forte. I am not interested in using it because like many others, I like projects that:
1.work, and
2.can be made from a trip to home hardware and the grocery store.
I mean, you could go buy 200,000$ worth of photovoltaic panels, build a hydrogen gnerator, and never pay for gas again! You could convert a f150 to run on 100% hydrogen. Ford had one, it was a 5.4 with supercharger. (for testing, not production)
I started this thread so people could see how 5$ of parts and a little tinkering could make the mileage go up on the PSD. I did'nt intend to get into exact figures, or rocket science.
Hence, the reason you keep seeing me type simpler instructions than the geniuses we have around here, which dont get me wrong, I think it's great that they're here, just that only 10% of people reading those posts will understand that this "generator" is a pail, and "reacting rods" are chunks of stainless steel, or even coat hangars.
Thats my 2.00$
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2002 7.3 PSD 4x4 Nothing out of the ordinary.
Talk about over thinking this thing, I saw what Parkland did, and I want to do something on the cheap. If it works good, then I'll think about reinventing the wheel. 21 pages of thinking about it but has anyone made the simplest of prototypes yet. Looks to me it should take an hour to fab and then find what works best for electrolyte. Don't get me wrong I appreciate all the added scientific jargon and warnings but I want to see real world results.
Pretty cool design he has there along with some good info.
I like the fancy one hooked up to that bike.
yes, very cool site w/ lots of good information,
i read on his faq page to not but insert the gas pre turbo, assuming the turbo wheel could cause a spark and kaboom??
If not there then where is every putting theirs?
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Dustan
1999.5 F350 7.3 Power Stroke Crew Cab 4x4 Long bed
Zperformance 90hp 6 setting module, AFE 4" turbo back exhaust, diy 6637 filter, stancor gpr, LT275/70R18, 3 pod pillar gauges, CCV mod, euro lights, hpx PAA Member #51 http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...9/189591.80.80
Where else would you place the Hydroxy inlet if not pre-turbo?
It would have to be pressurized to beable to enter into the compressed air side of the turbo... And if you planning on just using a bucket andsome close lines then your in for it... lol it won't produce nearly what you'll need to push that pressure back coming from the turbo. A diff. container and water tight lines yes.. maybe it could but the turbo pressure varies and that ... i don't know just seems like a lot more work then needed to me.
The only way I could see the turbo causeing an explosion would be if it turns red HOT! from running it too hard under load, or with a seperate tuner, raceing... etc etc... And it would have to be over 932 degrees F to ignite it. Our trucks are able to easily reach that 932* point on the exhaust side of things. So, Could the inlet side of the turbo reach that temp?
I could'nt tell you. My guess is yes because of convection (dont know it thats right but when it heats up because it part or touching the exhaust side of or the turbo...)... and when the turbo compresses air it heats the air up and it's self... hence your need for the intercooler.
So if yes then may adding this stuff after the intercooler is the right way to go?
Then we're back at pressure and the variance of it...
Just me thinking out loud...
O and if you all want a nice hydroxy producing geny look up the BOB Boyce 101 Cell Generator.
He has it producing about 60 Liters per min. Thats ALOT compared to the amount you could expect from close hangers or even the SS pipes one inside the other....
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