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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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  #271 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2008, 11:45 AM
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Before the unit was put on he stated he got 13.7 on one tank and 13.4 from another tank. He assured me that both of these tanks were run in the city only. Which I thought was kind of low for a 4.6L auto, but then again I've riden with him on numerous occasions. His go-pedal foot knows two positions, off and floor! I've come close to throwing-up its so bad, he's just as bad with the brakes!
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  #272 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2008, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAMPAGE_F350
Before the unit was put on he stated he got 13.7 on one tank and 13.4 from another tank. He assured me that both of these tanks were run in the city only. Which I thought was kind of low for a 4.6L auto, but then again I've riden with him on numerous occasions. His go-pedal foot knows two positions, off and floor! I've come close to throwing-up its so bad, he's just as bad with the brakes!
No wonder you really didnt want to talk on the phone last week when you were riding with him. You were car sick.
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Old 03-13-2008, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bdrummonds
No wonder you really didnt want to talk on the phone last week when you were riding with him. You were car sick.
You have no idea! I was sweating, my mouth was watering, my head was pounding, I was not in a good way...at all. Those extended cab F-150s have squat for room in the back seat either.
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  #274 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2008, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RAMPAGE_F350
You have no idea! I was sweating, my mouth was watering, my head was pounding, I was not in a good way...at all. Those extended cab F-150s have squat for room in the back seat either.
Company truck I assume. Too much gear in the front to sit up there?
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Old 03-15-2008, 01:09 AM
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I did some basic calculations this week.

7.3 engine ayt 2000 RPM running 5 PSI boost with 2 liters of Brown's gas per minute.

In round numbers that works out to about 9907 liters per minute for the air flow through the engine.

2 liters / 9907 liters works out to .020 % Brown's gas.

It would take 3 liters per minute with no boost to reach .126 % at idle.

At 10 PSI boost it would take 100 liters per minute to reach 1% Brown's gas at 1500 RPM.
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  #276 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 01:46 PM
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A warning should be given here. Brown's Gas as these things generate is a perfect mixture of Oxygen and Hydrogen. IT IS VERY EXPLOSIVE!!! The idea of running an engine entirely on it is conceivable, but you must realize that the rate at which the pure stuff burns is many, many times faster than any multi molecule fuel. Therefore, the timing has to be retarded to after TDC or it will act as though you advanced the timing to the point of stopping your engine if not blowing it apart. The benefit of the amount of HHO is to act as a Catalyst (assists) in burning ALL of the fuel injected. So small amounts are good but too much can cause severe damage if afdjustments aren't made to compensate for the increased burn rate.
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:55 PM
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There is an excellent website on the subject http://www.bobboyce.org/ that will be of great benefit. BobBoyce has run engines on pure HHO amd he gives a design of a system that works and explains the whole senario regarding Brown's Gas Generation. Oil Companys LOOK OUT!!!
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:59 PM
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U TUBE has demos of various HHO cells in operation if you want to check it out furthur.
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  #279 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marianna2003
There is an excellent website on the subject http://www.bobboyce.org/ that will be of great benefit. BobBoyce has run engines on pure HHO amd he gives a design of a system that works and explains the whole senario regarding Brown's Gas Generation. Oil Companys LOOK OUT!!!
Has he been able to get it to run on HO without any outside help and generate some useful power?
That's the big hurdle to all of this IMO, or it would have been figured out 100 years ago by our ancestors.
I've seen diagrams from a long time ago of overbalanced wheels, etc.
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:33 PM
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  #281 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2008, 07:44 PM
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Hi all,

Just wanted to chime in at this point and let you know that I can't wait to see results!!! I'm currently in the process of constucting my own Hydro generator and all the bells a whistles to go with em'.

I'm new here and Love what I'm hearing (don't worry I have read the whole thread and done my fair share of study on the subject)! in fact I actually am over at ford-trucks.com in the mist of a begining thead on HHO gas production were we are all trying to igure this out as well. Not worth really posting a link yet because it's only a few post long, no real info.

I bought the guide off water4gas.com

Don't do it! I hate the thing and would much rather trial and error it. Doesnt give nearly enough info. on the subject of actually getting it into your car and is a really expensive means of doing it. Plus the customer service sucks and has no Phone number. Seems to me there just out there to make $$$. Fair warning.

Anyhow, I own an 05', f-350, dually, 6.0... So I guess I'd have a little trouble with the Oxygen sensor (which I thought about before hand.) But the Generator is still the same and the safty precautions to take (check valves, flame arrestors, etc.)

Its been adressed here a few pages back, but I must state it again as I don't think it was answered yet. In the guide I bought, at the end... how conveniant (after your done and it installed, they say o and one last thing.... lol) it said that you'd need to "look into" replaceing you valves and entire exhast system with that of stainless steel as to avoid issuses with rusting.

Has anyone thought about this yet?

From what I read, once the HH and O atoms are ignited they turn back into H2O= water... Right?
So would'nt this rust out your headers and exhaust system?
Although I personally would think because of the heat involve it would exit the vehical as a vapor... but um um

Alex
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  #282 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2008, 08:18 PM
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Welcome to this side of the fence Alex. Be sure to keep us posted on your progress. Maybe Parkland will chime in with his observations on the rusting since he's been running the hydrogen for a while now.
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  #283 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2008, 10:40 PM
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Well heres a Question I have....

I'm Currently testing out my first Generator... nothing really crazy I just wanted to see some bubbles and blow up a ballon or two.

But anyhow.. I took 8 close hanger rods and put them into a topped bucket. Spaced them evenly in a circle w/ a dia. of about 1.5in. I then soldered the tops in a every other fashion.. so +-+-+-+-+-+-... around the circle. I then plugged power to them via my Batt charger that plugs into the wall. (converts AC current to DC to charge the Batts of cars.) Well, I got nothin... no bubbles or anything. Actually it told me on the charger I was running a Dead Short. Not good

I thought it might be a "safety" Mech to save a battery from dying even further??? I dont know..

So I went to the truck and attached both the Positive and Neg wire to the terminals on one of my batt's as to "by pass" the "safety Mech" in the charger... But, still got nothing. So I dumped a half box of baking soda in the bucket to increase the conductivity of the water... Still nothing..

Am I doing something wrong?

Granted they are close hangers... But Parkland made it work! Also they are spaced about an inch at least from each other.. in my design for the "real" one I'll be makeing I have 2 5in. 304 SS pipes on order for mid next week that have a .045 spacing between the two. Even that though I'm not sure if it'll work. But It will deff. be better I know that, came from those plans I bought that I decided to not use.

So My Question I have is (and it might sound dumb, but the only dumb Q is the one you did'nt ask) where do I attach the power leads to with in the truck? Or how is it best to power the electrods? For testing?

Thanks,
Alex
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  #284 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2008, 08:10 AM
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The wires need to be electrically separated from each other. If your charger is telling you that you have a dead short, I would check into that.
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Old 04-04-2008, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead View Post
Put a switch on the dash and don't turn it on until you are underway. That circuit should also pass through a throttle position switch that kills the power at idle.
Something like this would work nicely.
could someone explain how this kills power with the ignition off?
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