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hard to start diesel

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  #1  
Old 12-10-2007, 03:17 PM
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hard to start diesel

2000 f-350 hard to start in morning.Has codes po603 and p1316 have replace all glow plugs in the last year .Replace glow plug module and relay and had computer fixed [was not turning on glow plugs and module]it now turns on glow plug module. I know this truck also has oil reservior draining without notice[replace 2ndary oil pump and regulator and fixed this problem] and yes the cps has been replaced.All these problems were fixed, but still hard to start > IDM?
 
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Old 12-10-2007, 03:24 PM
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well to be sure grab a big screwdriver and jump the GPR for 30 sec and see if it starts better.
but to be clear hard to start is turning slow? or takes long for it to fire up? does it smoke white after it starts?
possible problems
GPR glow plyg relay
starter
batteries...
give us more details
 
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Old 12-10-2007, 03:25 PM
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BTW Welcome to FTE..............
 
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Old 12-10-2007, 03:32 PM
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Welcome to FTE. It seems like when we see the 0603 Kam error with the 1316 injector circuit/IDM codes together it usually ends up being the UVCH (under valve cover harness) that either has a loose plug, chaffed wires or both. Do you have any rough running, intermittent or not, issues?
 
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Old 12-10-2007, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Welcome to FTE. It seems like when we see the 0603 Kam error with the 1316 injector circuit/IDM codes together it usually ends up being the UVCH (under valve cover harness) that either has a loose plug, chaffed wires or both. Do you have any rough running, intermittent or not, issues?
I agree... Did you get a Service Engine Soon light?.. Mine did with my P1316 code and it was a loose 9 pin plastic junk connector under the valve cover.. Removed the valve cover (gaskets are reusable) and push the connector back together and slip a home made shim behind the plastic lock tabs (which were warped)..Or... you can buy a plastic repair clip from Ford.. my repair costs = $0.. see my gallery pic's for a pic of the loose connector.. and a tight one.
You also ohm test the 9 pin connectors before pulling valve covers if you have a digital ohm meter.. I have the readings if you want them.. It will check your injectors and glow plugs..
 

Last edited by clintbonnie; 12-10-2007 at 05:57 PM.
  #6  
Old 12-10-2007, 10:19 PM
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Pete,
Why do I always here about people jumping the solenoid? Why couldnt I just use my test light on it to make sure it is getting control power, in power, and out power?

Also, I think those guys may be right about the under vc harness having a bad connection. I have heard of more than one guy replacing gp's and having to go back in.
 
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:20 PM
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What would you do about a chaffed wire on the UVC harness under the VC? I got bored and took the left cover off and found the #6 glow plug wired shorted out on the pushrod. Can I clean it off and tape it up with electrical tape, or should I bend the wire back and leave it alone?
 
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:01 PM
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replace harness, remember it gets bath in the hot oil and if you use tape might come off clog you drain hole in the head and wreck havoc. so either replace harness or just bend it back hopin it wont short out again and melt wires or somthing.
 
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:03 PM
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thanks pete. guess i'll have to pick one of those up at a later date. didnt think about the tape coming off and clogging something. that probably wouldnt be a pretty sight
 
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by sflem849
Pete,
Why do I always here about people jumping the solenoid? Why couldnt I just use my test light on it to make sure it is getting control power, in power, and out power?

Also, I think those guys may be right about the under vc harness having a bad connection. I have heard of more than one guy replacing gp's and having to go back in.
well cause not all people have test light or multimeter , and screwdriver its easy and simple.
 
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by twags6
What would you do about a chaffed wire on the UVC harness under the VC? I got bored and took the left cover off and found the #6 glow plug wired shorted out on the pushrod. Can I clean it off and tape it up with electrical tape, or should I bend the wire back and leave it alone?
Well, since it is a GP wire, you might try some shrink tube and a repair. If it were a injector one, new harness. Too much voltage and chance for problems.

Oh, and the screwdriver jumping thing is stupid easy, and tells you a lot. A meter may tell you there is voltage present but a pissy connection will prevent any real meaningful juice from getting to the GPs. If the screwdriver jump makes no change, you can comfortably move on knowing the GPR is not at fault. Well, for the most part usually.
 
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:24 PM
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I bent it back for now. I know my GPR is working, but figured a GP or two was bad because there's a little smoke at startup.
 
  #13  
Old 12-28-2007, 09:54 PM
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well if you have DMM, you can check the voltage drop across the big posts, you should not ave more than 0.1v or somthing its a short distance, cause 3 or 4v will make big diference, on how they light up.
 
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:52 PM
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hey ghost,
did you check the top oil reserve switch? kind of hard to get to! if that goes bad makes it for hard to fire. doesnot sense oil pressure on top. its more a soleniod, then a switch.
facing the front of the truck the left side is now your right. locate your top oil reserve.
there is a soleniod on there, there should be a 2 or 3 wire connector, and an oil line on it. it is right by the fuel filter. really close quarters.
this soleniod is located towards the bottom right of that part. that will make your stroke really hard to start. i forget what its called, buti will find out!


ford ranger
 
  #15  
Old 03-07-2008, 08:55 AM
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check under valve cover harness on both sides ok.still hard to start. acts like it wants to start but does not. check glow plugs are good poss IDM?
 


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