hello, we have a 95 f-350 and cant get it to start. we started it the other morning and it stalled right away then wouldn't start. we found that it wasn't getting fuel so we changed the fuel pump now it has fuel in filter but still wouldn't start we have checked the wires to the gpr and have power to the gpr but nothing coming out of it. will this matter since i live on the gulf coast and it has been in the 60-70 degree range lately? what else would anyone suggest?

 

Welcome to FTE. You may have air in the fuel system and may take a lot of cranking to get it going. Don't fry the starter motor. Keep the batteries charged up and check all the battery/starter connections.You don't need GP's when it's that warm outside but it might help. To check the GPR Try crossing out the 2 large wires on the GPR with a screwdriver for 30-45 seconds...jump in the truck a try to start it. If it fires up you need a GPR.

Are you getting any smoke out of the exhaust while cranking? NO smoke=no fuel.

Does the tach move when you're cranking it? if not, may be a CPS. They are cheap at the dealer now due to a recall $25 vs $150. Get 2 and keep one in the glove box. They can/will go bad without warning and leave you stranded.

Check the fuses under the hood especailly #22. IF it's blown you need to unplug the fuel heater from the side of the fuel filter housing before replacing the fuse or it may blow again. Keep us posted.

 

thanks, the tach is not working i am going to check far smoke in few minutes but i have tried cranking it a lot is there anyway to check if i am getting fuel? i know that i am getting fuel to the filter but not sure after that. i will go and get a cps to be safe. thank you

 

Was the tach working before you started having trouble or is not working now?
If it just quit working you need a CPS.

Smoke coming out of the tail pipe during cranking will indicate you have fuel.
Check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve (Looks like a Tire valve) on the fuel pressure regulator....very top of the filter housing. The decorative engine cover needs to be removed.

 

Have you, Check the fuses under the hood especailly #22. IF it's blown you need to unplug the fuel heater from the side of the fuel filter housing before replacing the fuse or it may blow again, like Cuda Jim mentioned earlier? that's a common no start.

 

i have checked the fuses all appear to be good but i will change #22 just to be safe. i am charging the batteries back up i will check the pressure when i try it again. i also changed the cps and now have tach but the batteries ran down. what type of engine anylyzer would i want to buy?

 

Are the CPS's now really that cheap at the Ford dealer now? If so, I'm going to be running by there and ordering up a couple of them! I haven't had any problems yet, but, from everything I've read on here, I will one of these days.

What's with Ford and their CPS's? My other Ford, a '95 Taurus SHO, is also notorious for the CPS going out. Too bad the SHO was Ford's red-headed step-child, and they pretended the cars didn't even exist. It was almost impossible to find parts for them while they were being built, let alone now that they are over 10 years old. At least Ford was proud of their OBS PSD's, so my guess is parts should be readily available from the dealer for along time to come.

I noticed the recall is only for '97 and later trucks - are the sensors different on the '94.5 - 96 PSD's? The reason I ask is that mine is a '96.

Hopefully Ford has redesigned the new sensors to be more reliable...

 

my tach was working before and is working with the new cps. i dont have any smoke coming out of tailpipi but it did sound like it was trying to start when i tried it earlier before all it did was spin. i am going to buy a bigger battery charger in the morning and try again. the cps is really that cheap i bought one today it was $28 and change with tax.

 

Technically they are different but will work on either. The connector pins has a different coating (silver) on the new ones, they, Ford, belived the CPS problem was due to corrosion.....and it is, but that's not the only reason because the newer ones fail too! There was a clearance issue in the begining between the CPS and the exciter ring but rare.

 

Look for the engine block heater and plug it in. This eliminates the need for GP's and make starting easier.

Check the HPOP level, it should about an inch from the top. No oil here will cause you "No-Start". You may need to remove the Engine Cover.