Big Problem RH & LH BOTH
#16
12-09-2007, 08:31 PM
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#17
12-09-2007, 08:59 PM
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#18
12-09-2007, 10:32 PM
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12-10-2007, 07:42 AM
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12-10-2007, 07:42 AM
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#27
12-10-2007, 08:34 PM
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OK Gents, here where I'm at. I read the material and looked at all of the pix
and I'm trying to understand it the best I can. I stumbled upon a new GP relay that I had bought on Fleabay way back when. Didn't quite mount the way the OEM did but the instructions one mounting bolt was sufficiant.
I installed the new relay and same old crap...CEL same codes..I am now sucidal. I recall a diesel guru that only works on diesel pick ups and gave him a call. Told him everything that I have done right down to the aftermarket GPR.
He said get rid of the after market and get a ford or heavier as they carry upwards of 200 amps.
So I went to the stealership, bought a new one and will install it tomorrow.
If that don't work it must be in the main harness or the PCM.
I'll keep ya posted.
Rog
and I'm trying to understand it the best I can. I stumbled upon a new GP relay that I had bought on Fleabay way back when. Didn't quite mount the way the OEM did but the instructions one mounting bolt was sufficiant.
I installed the new relay and same old crap...CEL same codes..I am now sucidal. I recall a diesel guru that only works on diesel pick ups and gave him a call. Told him everything that I have done right down to the aftermarket GPR.
He said get rid of the after market and get a ford or heavier as they carry upwards of 200 amps.
So I went to the stealership, bought a new one and will install it tomorrow.
If that don't work it must be in the main harness or the PCM.
I'll keep ya posted.
Rog
#28
12-10-2007, 09:10 PM
Originally Posted by kawa
I just checked again. I had voltage to the stud W/O the shunt. Turned the ign. on and I got 12V on the shunt side.
In fact I kept my meter on the big terminal that has the shunt strap that goes to two other studs and after a considerable time I heard and felt the relay click and the shunt stud started to lose voltage at a rapid pace.
The part that bothers me is that I was on top of that engine so much when I was replacing the fuel pump and the turbo I could have smooched most anything, and there sure is a lot of crap up there.
Remember I only had this code on one side until I changed all of the GP's
Rog
In fact I kept my meter on the big terminal that has the shunt strap that goes to two other studs and after a considerable time I heard and felt the relay click and the shunt stud started to lose voltage at a rapid pace.
The part that bothers me is that I was on top of that engine so much when I was replacing the fuel pump and the turbo I could have smooched most anything, and there sure is a lot of crap up there.
Remember I only had this code on one side until I changed all of the GP's
Rog
#29
12-10-2007, 09:35 PM
#30
12-14-2007, 06:30 PM
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OK, I've just about got this mess figured out thanks to all of you, but I still need some help from the Guru "Think Tank."
If you will scroll up and click on the material that Action4478 supplied then scroll down to the schematic of the GPR.
I had the wires on posts "A" & "B" crossed but before I discovered the cross wire issue I took a voltage reading of A & B with the key on.
At this reading I had 11.36V on A and 6.30V on B.
I spoke with a Ford mech and determined that I had these two wires crossed. Both should be around 12V
I disconnected both wires and before I replaced them I turned on the ign. and got a 12V reading on both A & B.
I hooked the wires up properly and then turned on the ign and took another Voltage reading and this time A was 6.30V & B was 11.35V
SO, it appears that I have a problem with the purple/w-Org wire which goes to test PIN #101. I figured, by following the harness over to the driver's side it plugs into a large "Receptical" that continues on to where ever.
My question is: How do I identify Pin # 101 so that I can check continuity? Plus where is PIN #101?
Although I no longer get a CEL
I'm losing 5 Volts on the P/O wire.
Any thoughts are always welcome.
Rog
If you will scroll up and click on the material that Action4478 supplied then scroll down to the schematic of the GPR.
I had the wires on posts "A" & "B" crossed but before I discovered the cross wire issue I took a voltage reading of A & B with the key on.
At this reading I had 11.36V on A and 6.30V on B.
I spoke with a Ford mech and determined that I had these two wires crossed. Both should be around 12V
I disconnected both wires and before I replaced them I turned on the ign. and got a 12V reading on both A & B.
I hooked the wires up properly and then turned on the ign and took another Voltage reading and this time A was 6.30V & B was 11.35V
SO, it appears that I have a problem with the purple/w-Org wire which goes to test PIN #101. I figured, by following the harness over to the driver's side it plugs into a large "Receptical" that continues on to where ever.
My question is: How do I identify Pin # 101 so that I can check continuity? Plus where is PIN #101?
Although I no longer get a CEL
I'm losing 5 Volts on the P/O wire.Any thoughts are always welcome.
Rog