Anybody got any info or digrams for pulling the front housing to replace the stub shaft ujoint. Cant find any exploded views of the front axle assembly with the front rearend that includes the guts and how to remove the stub shaft..
My books and online stuff show the assembly and the rear end and i think its just a c-lock that hold the stub shaft in the front gears. So for replacement I think I need the oil seal and just the u-joint.
No Iam talking about the short shaft out of the pumpkin you need to pull the carier off and remove the c-clip holding in the short shaft to replace that ujoint
No Iam talking about the short shaft out of the pumpkin you need to pull the carier off and remove the c-clip holding in the short shaft to replace that ujoint
Yea I know, you're talking about the center u-joint up front for the IFS for the passenger side front wheel.
If all a truck needs is that u-joint replaced, has no seal leak or anything like that I just replace that u-jount working under the truck, leaving the stub shaft in place.
A lot less work that way.
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Not sure where any directions are for it but You will need to pull the spindle to get the shaft out. Driver side shaft you will not need to pull the pumpkin.(Passenger side will come apart a the slip joint also if you are only doing the outer joint)
Use a large screw driver or chisel to break the spindle loose from the knuckle. Do not beat on the spindle it's self. They also sell a tool that goes on a slide hammer and screws on the spindle to remove it.
Inspect the seals on the short shaft and the needle bearings in the spindle. If you need either it's generally cheaper to buy a spindle bearing kit. SBK2 is the part number.
Also keep an eye out for some small clips that hold the u-joint in. They need to be removed. Sometimes they are covered with dirt and stuff and are hard to see.
Yup! What 97 Centurion said. If you have four of them you are going to work on I'd get the spindle puller attachment for the slide hammer. Some places will even rent them. It's a large socket type deal that screws on to the end of the spindle. Then your slide hammer screws into the socket deal. This lets you "pop" the slide hammer a few times and pull the spindle straight out of steering knuckle.
There is only one c-clip that holds in the passangers side inner axle. As there are two u-joints connected with splined shafts on the passangers side I mark them so they go back together the same way they came apart. Ifin ya forget just make sure at least the two u-joints are in phase as they would be on a drive shaft.
Hope that helps and good luck.
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Happy "Lonesome Beaver" Jack
"Jr." All Grown Up
SSRNC Member #0
Thanks guys but I'am still talking about the short stub shaft not the axles. Yes I pull the spindles all the time to check the bearings and axles u-joints and seals. My spindles are not bound up cuz I never sez the crap out of them and all the mounts. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...agrams/d28.gif
From what i found Iam looking at #66 is the c-clip and #68 is the seal but know i need to find out if the #67 bearing needs to be replaced also and part numbers for the u-joint on the stub shaft it is not the same as the front axels so #69 is the stub shaft w/slip yoke. Called summit and the pcn-466 are the greaseable u-joints I replace in the axles but I need to call precision bearing on monday to get the u-joint #
Last edited by fernalddude : 12-09-2007 at 02:20 PM.
We are taliking about the same thing. What you call stub shaft I call the passangers side inner shaft and Dan calls the center u-joint. And it does have a c-clip that holds it in. Unless that is if someone has removed it and installed a spring in the slip tube (#69).
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Happy "Lonesome Beaver" Jack
"Jr." All Grown Up
SSRNC Member #0
the stub shafts are the outer axles that go the the hubs. you wanna replace the pass.side inner u-joint you have to pull the diff and take the C clip off to get the shaft out
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86 Ranger Xcab STX 4X4,D35,8.8,456's locked,4in lift
94 Xlporer sport
95 Ranger short bed 4X4 3.0 5spd http://gearheads.ipbfree.com/index.php?s=&act=idx
If you have a good ball joint press you don't need to remove the stub shaft from the diff. Use the press to take the joint out. I've done lots of TTB axles that way.
Matt
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88 Ranger XLT 4x4, 396W stroker, ZF 5 speed, twin stick NP 205, Perry's Fab n' Fiber fenders & bedsides and hood, 8.8 swap, BII gas tank, lifted a bit, 35in ProComp M/Ts.....4 linked Rockewells and supercharged 557 on the way
OK Just a mix up on the term the book I have call it the stub shaft so now we will call it the inner shaft (LOL) so does anbody have the part number for the inner u-joint. I found out it is not the same as the axle's acording to the local part's guy at ford dealer.And summit did not list it the told me to call a bearing company so I would like to have the parts before i tear it down also need the oil seal and guess i will cut a new gasket ans rtv it up . (update)Now the ranger station dana 28 rebuilt numbers show the 3 u-joints for the rebuild Ford e3tz-3249-a With a note some aftermarket parts are not the same and wont fit? http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...28Rebuild.html
Last edited by fernalddude : 12-10-2007 at 05:19 PM.
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Thanks guys but I'am still talking about the short stub shaft not the axles. Yes I pull the spindles all the time to check the bearings and axles u-joints and seals. My spindles are not bound up cuz I never sez the crap out of them and all the mounts. 
