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Is F-150 Still King?


 
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2007, 06:32 PM
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To get this shaft out you will have to do a few things. Unbolt the third member from the beam. From there loosen the long bolt on the back side of the third member near the raduis arm. Give a few whacks with a rubber mallet to break the RTV. After the oil drains take the long bolt out and remove the third member. There will be a C-clip holding the shaft in the diff. Pull the clip and the shaft will slide out. Any parts store should be able to get the u-joints and seals. The cheap jobber u-joints due tend to have fitment issues at times; I have used them with no problems though. The best u-joints will be Spicer, they are about twice the price though. The seals are pretty straight forward, do yourself a favor and replace both sides. They aren't expensive. Be careful when installing them. The pass side is very easy to bend. Reinstall in reverse order. You don't need a diff gasket; it's RTV.

Matt
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88 Ranger XLT 4x4, 396W stroker, ZF 5 speed, twin stick NP 205, Perry's Fab n' Fiber fenders & bedsides and hood, 8.8 swap, BII gas tank, lifted a bit, 35in ProComp M/Ts.....4 linked Rockewells and supercharged 557 on the way
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2007, 07:11 PM
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Thanks for the answer i needed yes I use the best u-joint's summit PCN-466 Precision Super U-Joints Spicer 1210-WJ
Universal Joint, Greasable, steal 30 bucks each just did not change the inner. I can have the axles out in about 30 min. so its not a big deal for that part just have not pulled the carrier out just got to clean up all the grease and oil drippins, been spraying down with degrease then kroloil the blolts. Any other tips would be great. Just looked again on summits site and right there it shows inner right front axle guess the guy I talked to was a idiot GRRRRRRR wasted my time.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2007, 10:56 PM
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Another little tip, do not overtorque the bolts holding the third member in. They strip very easily, the case is aluminum after all. If you feel really up to it you can install studs and it is a breeze to get the third member in and no worry about stripping the threads. Really that's about it. If the joints are a pain to get out use a hammer and yoke on the shaft side. Don't go crazy on it but it will work the cap out. Much easier than trying to press them out sometimes. I've seem some shafts get the yokes bent by pressing them out because the joint was rusted in so badly.

Matt
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88 Ranger XLT 4x4, 396W stroker, ZF 5 speed, twin stick NP 205, Perry's Fab n' Fiber fenders & bedsides and hood, 8.8 swap, BII gas tank, lifted a bit, 35in ProComp M/Ts.....4 linked Rockewells and supercharged 557 on the way
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