Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Other Ford Engines > Flathead V8 & Flathead 6
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2007, 11:23 AM
Sleeper-6 Sleeper-6 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3
Sleeper-6 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Stock appearing Flathead power tricks?

Ok, Here's my issue. This winter I am planning on an engine rebuild for Our 37 Ford/Pirsch firetruck. Currently getting about 15 miles to the quart of oil (can you say SMOKE ). Anyway, This eventually will eventually be a full restoration so it must remain looking 100% stock. Since it does get driven on a regular basis around town and to parades having a little more go in this heavy truck would me nice. What can we do internally to improvee this engine, but still keep looking and sounding stock? I was thinking about the mildest of the Isky cams (MAX#1 or 77-B grinds). Any other suggestions?
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2007, 06:38 PM
rswhitmore rswhitmore is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 177
rswhitmore is starting off with a positive reputation.
Raising the compression, and doing some porting and relieving will help without changing the appearance of the engine.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2007, 08:49 PM
dffay dffay is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 531
dffay is starting off with a positive reputation.
EAB heads have the smallest chambers (I think). But thats for the late model flatheads. And there may still need to be some flycutting if you put in a higher lift cam. But those heads will look stock. I don't know if there iks an equivalent small chambered head for the year you have.
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2007, 09:04 PM
dffay dffay is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 531
dffay is starting off with a positive reputation.
I forgot.....balancing an engine to the very best specs possible is one overlooked area. The engine is really freed up to not fight itself and to take power adders better. You can disguise electronic ignition inside of the stock distributor and port the engine really well and it will really wake up. Unfortunately, the stock exhaust is going to be tough to deal with if you add a hotter cam.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2007, 09:08 AM
Sleeper-6 Sleeper-6 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3
Sleeper-6 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks, I'll check out the head numbers later and let you kjnow what's on there. I have to do some research on the exhaust, I know the factory manifolds and Y-pipe have to stay. Maybe I can port the manifolds to help a little. after that I'm not sure if the truck was built using Ford made exhaust parts or the body builder custom fabbed something to clear the pump and piping. Currently it has some 40 year old 2" flex pipe from the front to the back with no muffler. The whole neighborhood knows when we go out for a ride.
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2007, 11:00 AM
mtflat mtflat is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 5,213
mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.mtflat has a good reputation on FTE.
A cam would help a little, but probably not much if you keep the carb and exhaust stock. Problem is they run out of breath before needing more cam.

Since the exhaust has been modified over the years, anything else could have been also. Here's where I'd start: Count the headbolts on one head.

It should have 21 but often a later 24 studder was substituted. If it does have the original 21 stud flathead they just don't give up hp easily. 24 is a lot easier to 'supe' up. Until we know what you have any advice we give is just a shot in the dark.

All that aside - with the wear you have on the engine, even a stock rebuild with a mild overbore will result in an amazing jump in felt power.

Last edited by mtflat; 12-08-2007 at 11:04 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2007, 01:15 PM
Sleeper-6 Sleeper-6 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3
Sleeper-6 is starting off with a positive reputation.
It is the original 21 stud engine. The flex pipe is more than likely a cheax quick fix for a rotted out exhaust over the years. It seemed to be a trend around the firehouse years ago, everything we owened had flex pipe on it at some point. Got all that weeded out now. As far as the cam issue, I was leaning toward a cam for low RPM torque, not looking to extend the power higher up.
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2007, 04:58 PM
effie_man's Avatar
effie_man effie_man is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: saskatoon, SK
Posts: 3,255
effie_man is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
changing head gaskets to sheet metal ones were an old trick to boost compression, not sure if it would work for the 21 stud flatty but maybe a 4" merc crank
__________________
Chris

1953 Ford F100 Custom Cab
1950 Mercury Monarch Sports Sedan
1949 Mercury Monarch Lead Sled Full Custom
2004 Ford F150 STX 4x4
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2007, 08:07 PM
Snowking's Avatar
Snowking Snowking is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Colonsay Sk. Canada
Posts: 8,415
Snowking has a very good reputation on FTE.Snowking has a very good reputation on FTE.Snowking has a very good reputation on FTE.
newwer coil, so you can use a spark plug with a bigger gap works i hear makes sense to me at least.
__________________
Some nights you just have to realize your gonna be slaying a Dragon and not saving the Princess
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2008, 10:00 AM
popbreed popbreed is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 97
popbreed is starting off with a positive reputation.
tricks from the 50s

Back in the late 50s and early 60s. we were running the flathead v8 in late model "stock" class on the shorttracks. The motor were suppose to be stock except for any exhaust was ok. There were many methods of "cheating" and we did all we knew about and could afford. Cam, heavy porting and polishing. big overbores (3 3/8 bore) and the 4" merc crank. Tech inspection would check the head thickness but we raised the compression by "welding Up" the combustion chamber and then grinding to smooth it out. There were a few shops in the central NY area who would provide this service. Another trick to avoid overheating was replacing the thermostst with washers with a 3/8* hole and breaking off every other fin on the waterpumps. These motors were run on 1/4 mile ovals in 2nd gear with a 4.27 rearend (studebacker gears) and would scream but never overheat. It is amazing now to realize how crude we were to these motors and how long they surived in these conditions. Most would last two or three seasons running two nights a week.

POP
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2008, 11:28 PM
Snowking's Avatar
Snowking Snowking is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Colonsay Sk. Canada
Posts: 8,415
Snowking has a very good reputation on FTE.Snowking has a very good reputation on FTE.Snowking has a very good reputation on FTE.
That is a great post. Thank you those kind of storys are why I still visit this site and this forum.

Believe it or not there are people that think they know
1-all Flatheads overheated and cracked
2- the 4 inch Merc crank are so rare only the 3 kings of Europe own them

I love learning the tricks to these old motor I'm just 20 years old but I want to learn more, and not just statics.
__________________
Some nights you just have to realize your gonna be slaying a Dragon and not saving the Princess

Last edited by Snowking; 02-16-2008 at 11:31 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2008, 07:00 PM
effie_man's Avatar
effie_man effie_man is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: saskatoon, SK
Posts: 3,255
effie_man is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
relieving the area of head material where the spark plug protrudes into the head improves the air/fuel mixture and gives a little better burn off
__________________
Chris

1953 Ford F100 Custom Cab
1950 Mercury Monarch Sports Sedan
1949 Mercury Monarch Lead Sled Full Custom
2004 Ford F150 STX 4x4
Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2008, 07:00 PM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Other Ford Engines > Flathead V8 & Flathead 6

Tags
14, 21, flathead, flh, ford, forum, heads, mile, plugs, power, spark, stud, times, tricks, truck

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup