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I have some oil I picked up from somewhere that just will not react, no amount of lye will make it seperate and make bio with my blender batches. I also used WVO in a few of my trucks, is this oil that won't react still good for running as straight veggie?
I've been expermenting with burning WMO and recently
had a batch from the neighbor (delo 400) that must
have been a blend of dino and synthetic (silicon based?).
Burning about a gallon of it produced an extra quart and
a half on my dripstick. It was definitely not water..
Lowell- what do you mean produced an extra qt on your "dripstick" please elaborate
__________________ Danny PAA member #12
SoCal Chapter Member
E99 F-350 Dually Van turbo 4x4 CC LB 7.3L, AFE intake, 3 gauge pillar, 4" Magnaflow SS str8-pipe, DP Tuner, Swamps 175/146 SS inj, ARP head and bottom studs, Comp 910 springs, ITP Ovrbst, CCV mod, SS HPX, home made Reg-return, Foil Del, ZooDad, Air Horns 320hp/704tq
The only thing I could figure out was , the silicon based
synthetic was pushed by the piston rings. This happened
in both my 87' 6.9 and my MBZ non-turbo 300.
I spent 36 years working for an airline as a mechanic,
so I've these fluids for along time but I have never
used them in my personal vehicles.
Jeez, I've never heard fo that before. Good to know....
__________________ Danny PAA member #12
SoCal Chapter Member
E99 F-350 Dually Van turbo 4x4 CC LB 7.3L, AFE intake, 3 gauge pillar, 4" Magnaflow SS str8-pipe, DP Tuner, Swamps 175/146 SS inj, ARP head and bottom studs, Comp 910 springs, ITP Ovrbst, CCV mod, SS HPX, home made Reg-return, Foil Del, ZooDad, Air Horns 320hp/704tq
Hey maybe one could start selling oil out of ones' own
crankcase!! ... maybe invest a centerfuge. I've felt
for many years that synthetic oils would become
cheaper than those that are dino based.
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