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i flushed out the rad in my 96 ranger.new antifreeze.new 192 thermostat.all new hoses.new heater control valve.new heater core.still no heat inside the cab .
any help would be great.
ps one of the hoses into the heater core gets warm .still no heat.
Here's why I had no heat in my 95 Ranger 2.3! Just changed the water pump today. You can have good temp showing on the gauge, and even both heater hoses hot going to the core, but if you are not moving coolant at the volume it's supposed to be going through the engine, a weak pump is barely moving things along. It takes a good pump to circulate, mine must have been barely getting the coolant up to the core and through it. Put on the new pump and now it's nice and toasty inside. Look at the vanes, they are all gone, and no front metal cover at all. My coolant was brown sludge and I at first thought I could get away with just flushing everything and replacing thermostat.
I had the same problem on my 93. Temp guage wouldn't go up above the 1st line...hoses would barely get warm, even the ones coming from the block. Replaced the themostat, flushed the system. NOTHING. I drove it that way a couple years. I got rid of it before I ever got around to fixing it.
drop down the glove box by sqeezing both sides, it will come down and hang by the hinge. Then look on top of your heater box, you'll see a white box with a wire harness going to it. Important: turn the key on and move the control to full cold with fan on high for about 20 seconds, this will give the blend door actuator time to move the door to full cold position (if it is working). This white box is the actuator. Once you have done this, turn off the ignition, remove the wire harness going to the actuator, and use a large flat blade screwdriver to pry up the box carefully, first at the sides nearest you, then once they are up, pop up the back of the actuator. Once it is off plug the harness back in and turn the box over, you'll see the long part that goes down inside the heater box to move the blend door. Turn the ignition back on and move the control to full hot, you should observe the the pin (long part) moving slowly. It will go about 90 degrees and stop to full hot. It does NOT go a full revolution, only about a quarter turn, and it moves slowly. If it does this you know the actuator is good, but your blend door could be broken. To check that, search for "blend door fix" on this forum, there is a procedure that tells you how to look for a broken door. Me, I was lazy and cut a hole in my heater box with a die grinder because I ain't taking 2 days to remove my dash, and because the glovebox hides the box anyway. Made myself an access panel and stuck my hand inside the heater box while my actuator was in place and felt the blend door moving as it should. I eliminated both of those and then found out my water pump was bad. See pic above.
NOTE: MAKE SURE TO MOVE HEATER CONTROL BACK TO FULL COLD BEFORE SNAPPING THE ACTUATOR BACK IN PLACE OR IT WON'T GO. Good luck
put in new water pump.still no heat .as for working on the heater forget it.
as for understandind your instructions .you lost me after the second sentence.ill save my money and have to pay someone 1000.00 to fix it .or find another heater that works .and change it .i live in mohave county and nothing is cheap here.and parts for 96 rangers dont exist.
thanks for the info
when i move the temp control to ac it works fine.move the temp switch to heat no luck .
would the heater out of my 90 ranger work in my 96
Just bought a 96 Ranger and the vent only blows hot air, I looked at the blend door fix and verified that the actuator works and the door is broken at the top. I attempted the fix with the nail and never could get the nail in the correct location. Other than pulling the dash to replace the door any other suggestions? I have found one sight that sells doors but you still have to remove the dash
since that area is hidden by the glovebox, you can be lazy but quick and cut a hole in the plenum (I use a die grinder), basically making yourself an access door to that area to do the repair with a new door, and then duct tape the hole shut. Beats having 12 hours of back breaking labor under there and then wondering why you have 6 or 7 screws left over!
ASE certified tech
owner of roadside assistance co.
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