Trick My Trailer

Greywolf · #1 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 09:33 AM

As a result of a convo early this morning, it looks like we may have an ongoing project we can follow. Sglaine PM'd me with some questions, and this is where we are at so far:

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Greywolf I hear that you are a hell of a craftsman I have 22 ft Layton by Skyline trailer that I would like to fix up and make it one of a kind..Do you have any ideas.

Thank you so much

QUESTION ONE:

What kind of shape is the roof, caulking, and interior in?

Do the damage control first - it's critical. You want to make sure there is no wood-rot anywhere in it, and no water or weather leaks. THIS is the time to scope out what can be changed and upgraded too.

Get underneath it too, and check the frame suspension and flooring.

99% of a camper is common light carpentry, plastic plumbing, and basic electrical. But you need a solid roof, a sound frame, and good running gear.

Almost all the rest can be ripped out and replaced on weekends, and there are alternatives to a lot of the high dollar RV crap.

Over all it is solid I just tarped it off yesterday to keep the water out..Floor is in great shape roof is as well that is why I bought it..Frame is very sound and will be repainted in the spring This unit sat at a camp ground sense new on a cement slab

okay. How old is it exactly?

Sight line down all sides and look for any bulges or ripples that might be signs of de-lamination, seriously. The time to make sure of what you have is at the beginning just like with a car or truck body.

Check underneath cabinets, and think about ways to make access to waterlines and fitting simpler later on.

The check phase calls for looking everywhere in it, so the idea phase should ride right along with that.

It was also made in 1982

Why don't we do a thread on this in towing and RV?

Okay sounds like a great idea and I will start that after breakfast

Kewl! I'm looking for ways to stay up because I didn't sleep last night (couldn't) and need to get my clock turned back around. The first day at the new job is tomorrow.

What is it that you do for work??

You're gonna luv this -

I'm an RV TECHNICIAN!

Ohhh That explains why McGruff wanted me to call on you..

(with apologies for all of the nested quotes. I thought I could clean all that up)

So the next step is to get an idea of what the project looks like now, and how it's layed out. Twenty year old coaches are usually a wreck, unless very well kept up. This should be interesting - hopefully along the lines of "This Old House".

~Wolfie

sglaine · #2 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 10:41 AM

I was thinking for starter when spring rolls around is to put a rubber roof on the trailer..

ericsmith32 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 12:34 PM

Sounds good my trailer would be a good next candidate. I'm hoping lighting strikes first though.

Greywolf · #4 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 01:05 PM

What is up there now? If it's rubber it's a bit past it's life expectancy.

Fiberglass can be used, but hail can crack fiberglass, where rubber will absorb hits and can be easily spot patched.

sglaine · #5 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 01:30 PM

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Originally Posted by Greywolf

What is up there now? If it's rubber it's a bit past it's life expectancy.

Fiberglass can be used, but hail can crack fiberglass, where rubber will absorb hits and can be easily spot patched.

It has the original roof and has been sealed on a regular bases. I was thinking if I rubbered it I would not have to touch it again

Greywolf · #6 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 01:42 PM

True, but it should be resealed every two years.

As talked about elsewhere in the tips - the roof cover will last for the long haul, but even dicor is only rated two years before resealing is needed to ensure there are no cracks, pulling away, or shrinkage.

And everything that goes through the roof will have to be dismounted to strip the old covering off, and lay down the new material. Including the top half of the A/C unit(s).

At that time, you can see what the wood under it really looks like.

When it comes time to do this, I will be sure and help guide you through the A/C unit wiring.

A paint roller with a broomstick handle will be a good thing to have when laying the glue down for the roofing material.

OBTW: THIS IS MY 16,000th POST at FTE!

sglaine · #7 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 01:50 PM

Congats on your 16.000th post..Yes Yes The model number is 20tm1 by the way and the is no A/C unit I do not believe that there ever was one there

Greywolf · #8 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 02:42 PM

That too can be modified. The roof vent holes are the exact same size as the A/C top half, and not by coincidence. All that is needed is a non-ducted plenum inside, with a top half that allows the controls to match up.

One question - is it a thirty amp or above shore power service cord?

sglaine · #9 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 03:01 PM

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Originally Posted by Greywolf

That too can be modified. The roof vent holes are the exact same size as the A/C top half, and not by coincidence. All that is needed is a non-ducted plenum inside, with a top half that allows the controls to match up.

One question - is it a thirty amp or above shore power service cord?

There is a 30 amp service..Now on that trailer isn't the trailer A/C unit mounted through the roof?

Greywolf · #10 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 03:09 PM

Sure is. A 13,000 BTU unit will pull between 12 to 18 amps when the compressor first kicks in, so 30 amp is the minimum. That leaves actually quite a bit for energy budgetting - I bet it doesn't have a microwave though.

A roof vent in a central location can be removed and the A/C Unit will take it's place. It may even be pre-wired, but bet in favor of having to run some romex and a twelve volt line down from the vent hole through the walls and roof.

If it is in the dinette area, the wiring can run across the roof to a cabinet, down the inside of the wall to a bench seat at the table, through the floor under the bench, and then it's a home run straight to the breaker box wherever it is located.

gray91 · #11 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 04:02 PM

Hey guys... I don't have or know much about trailers, but looks like school is in session, at least for the learning.. So of course I won't be posting to this except to say "hello", that Sean referred The New England Frivolous to check out your thread. This will make informative reading..

And if I know anyone into trailers and related projects --if they got Ford Trucks I'll give 'em a spotter card or something, if not I'll invite them to read along as guests--

Thx

Greywolf · #12 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 05:01 PM

With luck, we should get some pictures in this one. It will help me to see what's going on at the far end, and make it easier to explain some things. For those with experience, or similar projects the more the merrier as long as we stay on track with the current tasks or planning.

Hopefully soon we'll get a look at the overall camper. It's only a twenty footer, and an 82 is not likely to have a slide out so it makes a perfect learning lab.

Toyman · #13 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 05:50 PM

The only concern I have is in one of the leading posts it was stated that the trailer was covered. Please tell me/us that you did not put one of those poly tartps on it. This type of tarp does not breath, they will hold in the moisture and also cause the trailer to rot.

It does sound like it is going to be a fun project, try to get some pictures for us also.

Toyman

Greywolf · #14 (**permalink**) 12-02-2007, 06:00 PM

Toyman makes a serious point. Unless there is a known leak tarps are bad juju.

I was trying to think ahead at other possibilities.

sglaine · #15 (**permalink**) 12-04-2007, 06:59 PM

I hope by next winter I have a Pole shed that I can back the trailer under..