Power steering fluid changeDoes anybody
#16
This filter fits both CLICK
put in return line low pressure for PS, hose clamps
put in outflow line for AT, look for a neoprene connection hose under radiator coming from front cross frame
can be in either outflow or return for AT, doesn't really matter
better to filter before the coolers, lots of crud settles out in them
put in return line low pressure for PS, hose clamps
put in outflow line for AT, look for a neoprene connection hose under radiator coming from front cross frame
can be in either outflow or return for AT, doesn't really matter
better to filter before the coolers, lots of crud settles out in them
#17
Originally Posted by VanGo
Thanks Copper. So my next stupid question(s); does anyone know the hose ID on the Aero?
I haven't checked but aren't the P/S hoses sporting crimped connectors for pressure? How are these filters secured? Which line should the filter go on?
Enquiring minds want to know.
I haven't checked but aren't the P/S hoses sporting crimped connectors for pressure? How are these filters secured? Which line should the filter go on?
Enquiring minds want to know.
Cliff? Others? 3/8" or 5/16" ???
#18
#19
#20
The email response I got from Bulk Parts says:
"<tt>On the label, it says they should </tt>be changed every 12 months or 10,000 miles.
Yes, I understand there is a bypass built in.
In my opinion if you ever plug a filter up you, already have a serious transmission problem.
The internal filter picks up most particles
These inline filters trap the very fine trash that the main filter just does not get. "
"<tt>On the label, it says they should </tt>be changed every 12 months or 10,000 miles.
Yes, I understand there is a bypass built in.
In my opinion if you ever plug a filter up you, already have a serious transmission problem.
The internal filter picks up most particles
These inline filters trap the very fine trash that the main filter just does not get. "
#21
#22
I think that big nut is for holding in the pinion gear and shaft. You should not remove that.
The best way to drain is what others have mentioned. Pull the return line from the PS pump, drain what comes out. Put the end of that hose into your catch bucket. I would then attach a long hose to that and raise the other end above the pump, and fill it up with fresh fluid. Run the engine while slowly refilling the pump with fresh fluid. Have an assistant turn the wheel from lock to lock to drive out all the fluid from the rack.
The best way to drain is what others have mentioned. Pull the return line from the PS pump, drain what comes out. Put the end of that hose into your catch bucket. I would then attach a long hose to that and raise the other end above the pump, and fill it up with fresh fluid. Run the engine while slowly refilling the pump with fresh fluid. Have an assistant turn the wheel from lock to lock to drive out all the fluid from the rack.
#26
I don't remember the capacity. But I remember slowly filling it to where the dipstick says it should be before running the engine, then running the engine and turn the wheel to their limits in either direction. The level will go down as the rest of the system fills, and you repeat until the level stays. I must have used at least a quart in my 69 Mustang, as it has that big power assist cylinder that takes a bit to fill.
#27
Thank you. Filled with 3/4 of a quart of ATF-F, turned wheels both ways. All was smooth, then I discovered massive fresh red fluid on the deck...I suppose a send or return line is cracked/spilt, or perhaps loose fittings...anyone seen this before? Do I need to install a whole new assembly?
#28
In fact, I saw this on that same 69 Mustang. It turned out to be a crack in the return line. A leak in the pressure line will spray all over the place, instead of just dribbling to the ground.
The return line is pretty easy to replace; just find the crack and replace the section it's in.
The pressure line is more difficult; some of those couplings are put together so tightly from the factory that it's nearly impossible for you disconnect them without a jig. I've never been able to disassemble them on mine or other cars in the junk yard using just tube nut wrenches.
The return line is pretty easy to replace; just find the crack and replace the section it's in.
The pressure line is more difficult; some of those couplings are put together so tightly from the factory that it's nearly impossible for you disconnect them without a jig. I've never been able to disassemble them on mine or other cars in the junk yard using just tube nut wrenches.
#29
Or you could do like how I am doing it, I have to replace the power steering pump due to my wife's lack of maintenance skills.
The van had a known slight leak in the seals on the pump. As long as you added fluid every few months, there was no problem.
I went on a 6 month deployment with my ship, during that time, she never checked the fluids, and the pump ran so low on fluid that what was left was turned into a cream colored gook. There was only the gook left in the pump when I came back from the deployment. The van was very hard to drive. I am surprised she even was able to drive it around.
When we got home, the engine stopped due to the bearings on the pump getting burned out.
Which means, I need to replace the pump, which is an ideal time to change out the fluid........
The van had a known slight leak in the seals on the pump. As long as you added fluid every few months, there was no problem.
I went on a 6 month deployment with my ship, during that time, she never checked the fluids, and the pump ran so low on fluid that what was left was turned into a cream colored gook. There was only the gook left in the pump when I came back from the deployment. The van was very hard to drive. I am surprised she even was able to drive it around.
When we got home, the engine stopped due to the bearings on the pump getting burned out.
Which means, I need to replace the pump, which is an ideal time to change out the fluid........
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Jeffkniseley
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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11-18-2015 08:31 PM