2004 - 2008 F1502004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 Ford F150's with 5.4 V8, 4.6 V8 or 4.2 V6 engine
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Thanks for the feedback. I have a brochure (Picture of Motor Home towing a tow rig) from Ford stating with the manual transfer case only it can be towed with four wheels on the ground. It was the Fleet Dealer rep that gave us the instruction on pumping the brakes to confirm no vacuum and place the transfer case in neutral and good to tow. This seems backwards from what I and reading here.
Your Fleet Dealer is clueless if he thinks pumping the brakes will affect IWE vacuum. They are completely different circuits. And the IWE fails engaged without vacuum
page 198...talks about what you are saying if you have a manual t-case shifter
but if you read page 199...it says 35mph max speed for no more than 50 miles if 4x4 and auto transmission
it goes on further and says you can exceed 35 mph or 50 miles if you remove the front and rear driveshafts. I personally wouldn't though. Your front hubs will still be turning and being subjected to wear
2004 F-150 Owners Guide PDF
page 189. Similar to the 2006 instructions...but it doesn't mention the manual t-case at all with auto transmission.
Yeah I think everything is the same on the manual except that you move the transfer case by hand and not the electric motor. The vacuum system works the same on the auto locking and manual locking. I'm not sure what the guy is talking about when he says pump the brakes. ??
Yeah I think everything is the same on the manual except that you move the transfer case by hand and not the electric motor. The vacuum system works the same on the auto locking and manual locking
electronic shift t-case has no neutral position
manual shift t-case does have a neutral position
either way though, your front hubs will be engaged and spinning the front axle/driveshaft
these hubs aren't like the Dodge hubs. they were designed to be part time use...and not full time use. There are guys all over the place who have had to replace hubs because they were engaged while driving
__________________ 2002 Excursion XLT w/ V-10 <---Build thread 2015 Chevrolet Tahoe - I've owned 4 brand new Fords since 2006. Notice that I bought a Chevy this time. That should tell you something
I posted to another thread about this, and am still waiting for a reply. So, here's my story:
It is a 2006 F-150 SCC 5.4L V8. The dash lights up correctly when the switch is turned to 4H and 4L, and you can hear the T-axle engaging. However, only the halfshafts turn when under power, and the wheels continue to spin freely whether the vacuum is appied (engine running), or not (engine off). Methinks the IWEs are both stuck and don't move when the vacuum is applied or removed.
We put all 4 corners up, to do our tests, At no time were the hubs engaging the wheels. Is that an indicator of bad IWEs? If so, how tough a job is it to change them?
Thanks for coming to the dance 60DRB! The video that DANORULES posted here was the best guide that I've seen to date. I've found the Acuators for less than $70, but I am still looking for the new IWE Solenoid. Is that a dealer-only item?
Well that video is a little different approach than the "how to" link I posted. You'll get the same results either way, but the link I posted seems a little easier (it too, has tool list and pictures). I used the link- removed the tire/wheel for better visability, unhooked the UCA instead of the lower strut bolt, and did NOT have to unbolt any of the drive shaft other than the axle end nut at the wheel hub. Either way will work fine. It's not very difficult, and you'll feel great saving several hundred $$ in labor charges doing the work yourself.
'06 F-150 STX, 4x4 4.6, going strong
'92 F-150 XLT, 4x4 4.9, killed by cell phone driver in 2010, RIP
'73 K-20 Custom, 4x4 350/350 My 1st truck, sold, wish I still had it
waiting for the parts to arrive, so I will go back and take another look at the link that you, 60DRB, posted. Leaving the wheel on might be easier when the truck is on the lift, but up on jack stands, removal makes more sense. Having the tire to turn the axle to get at the 6 bolts on the flange allows easier turning, due to more torque...but, the Actuators aren't engaging, so that won't work on this repair-thus, wheels come off. LOL
I'll see what I think after watching your video all of the way thru, I was a bit rushed when I was looking at it yesterday. Either way, the task will be done, when the weather permits.
BTW, I have ordered 2 new Actuators, and I should have a new solenoid tomorrow afternoon. I am busy this week from Thursday thru Monday, so the job will have to wait until the first week of March.
Last edited by ironbandit; 02-23-2014 at 09:15 AM.
Reason: Forgot to mention...
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