Your Fleet Dealer is clueless if he thinks pumping the brakes will affect IWE vacuum. They are completely different circuits. And the IWE fails engaged without vacuum



2006 F-150 Owners Guide PDF

page 198...talks about what you are saying if you have a manual t-case shifter

but if you read page 199...it says 35mph max speed for no more than 50 miles if 4x4 and auto transmission


it goes on further and says you can exceed 35 mph or 50 miles if you remove the front and rear driveshafts. I personally wouldn't though. Your front hubs will still be turning and being subjected to wear


2004 F-150 Owners Guide PDF
page 189. Similar to the 2006 instructions...but it doesn't mention the manual t-case at all with auto transmission.




https://www.fleet.ford.com/

lots of good info available there

 

Yeah I think everything is the same on the manual except that you move the transfer case by hand and not the electric motor. The vacuum system works the same on the auto locking and manual locking. I'm not sure what the guy is talking about when he says pump the brakes. ??

 

electronic shift t-case has no neutral position
manual shift t-case does have a neutral position

either way though, your front hubs will be engaged and spinning the front axle/driveshaft

these hubs aren't like the Dodge hubs. they were designed to be part time use...and not full time use. There are guys all over the place who have had to replace hubs because they were engaged while driving

 

I posted to another thread about this, and am still waiting for a reply. So, here's my story:

It is a 2006 F-150 SCC 5.4L V8. The dash lights up correctly when the switch is turned to 4H and 4L, and you can hear the T-axle engaging. However, only the halfshafts turn when under power, and the wheels continue to spin freely whether the vacuum is appied (engine running), or not (engine off). Methinks the IWEs are both stuck and don't move when the vacuum is applied or removed.

We put all 4 corners up, to do our tests, At no time were the hubs engaging the wheels. Is that an indicator of bad IWEs? If so, how tough a job is it to change them?

 

Welcome to the site!

Iwe is real easy to install. Go to the top of the page and look at the "stickies" section, there is a very detailed iwe thread. Also you tube is your friend, many videos on the subject

 

Well. I did go thru the thread concerning "Everything that you wanted to know about IWE", and I did watch one video, but it didn't get into the actual replacement.

Thanks, tho'. I'll go back and see if I missed something...

 

I found that it was actually easier to break down the upper ball joint and pull the half shaft out off the knuckle. But I believe that was due to my level kit

 

Fangs a bunch! they didn't bother with the ball joint, just dropped the bottom of the strut off.

That means, I only need the wheel end nuts, plus the actuators. What he showed with the old one is likely what my old ones are like, stuck in the "open" position, like vacuum is always applied.

Thanks again!

 

A little late to the dance...

Trouble shooting;

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1211749-4wd-not-working-help-me-pinpoint-my-issue-plz.html#post12662529

HOW TO: Diagnose your 4x4 system. ESOF - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...then-some.html

Replacing the IWEs;

http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/360269-iwes-removal-replacing.html

Not hard to do.

 

Thanks for coming to the dance 60DRB! The video that DANORULES posted here was the best guide that I've seen to date. I've found the Acuators for less than $70, but I am still looking for the new IWE Solenoid. Is that a dealer-only item?

 

Napa sells the solenoid, I believe they call it a 4wd solenoid. Somewhere around $20

 

If NAPA does, then CarQuest likely does as well. Thanks again, Dano, that video was an excellent aid for doing the job.

To everyone else on this thread, don't bother taking your truck to the dealer, the information that you need is right here in this thread, or linked to from this thread!

Yeppers, CarQuest has the solenoid, for $24, and can have it next Tuesday afternoon. The actuators are $108 each, however, so Dorman online will be the preferred method...

 

Well that video is a little different approach than the "how to" link I posted. You'll get the same results either way, but the link I posted seems a little easier (it too, has tool list and pictures). I used the link- removed the tire/wheel for better visability, unhooked the UCA instead of the lower strut bolt, and did NOT have to unbolt any of the drive shaft other than the axle end nut at the wheel hub. Either way will work fine. It's not very difficult, and you'll feel great saving several hundred $$ in labor charges doing the work yourself.

 

waiting for the parts to arrive, so I will go back and take another look at the link that you, 60DRB, posted. Leaving the wheel on might be easier when the truck is on the lift, but up on jack stands, removal makes more sense. Having the tire to turn the axle to get at the 6 bolts on the flange allows easier turning, due to more torque...but, the Actuators aren't engaging, so that won't work on this repair-thus, wheels come off. LOL

I'll see what I think after watching your video all of the way thru, I was a bit rushed when I was looking at it yesterday. Either way, the task will be done, when the weather permits.

BTW, I have ordered 2 new Actuators, and I should have a new solenoid tomorrow afternoon. I am busy this week from Thursday thru Monday, so the job will have to wait until the first week of March.

 

Yeah, the link I posted was for a "driveway" repair, with no lift. Worked fine for me.