Thanks guys..I feel better already.
Auto parts place nearby has the gasket for $20 so that is a hell of a lot better than $500 for a dealership to do the work!
Does this thing get hit with gasket cement?
Does to oil pan (after hearing it is made of tin foil) need any special tightening instructions?
Or is it just a "put it in place tighten it down normally and go about your business" type thing?
If it's a cork or paper gasket I would use some gasket adhesive on it and some RTV in the corners, then tighten it down. If it's a silicon/rubber gasket don't put anything on it except at the corners. Use RTV at the corners to help it seal properly. BTW, when I say corners, I mean where the gasket goes into the corner at the timing cover and rear main cap, not the corners of the block.
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1990 F-150XLT Lariat Stillon the original engine with no squeaks or rattles at over 300k miles
4.9/M5OD/3.08
16.89@77.09
145 rwhp, 272 rwtq
2001 Lightning #127
13.18@104, no chip, no pulley, no nitrous
Confuscious say "Man who have no use for jackstand have promising career as jackstand".
I have been seeing problems concerning “Oil Leaks” that looks like it’s coming from the rear main seal or you can’t tell where the oil is coming from. I have a ’88 F-150, 4.9L that had the same problem. (Oil on the pan, manual tranny, bottom of frame and every where else. It appeared to be coming from between the bell housing and the oil pan. Oil all over the starter. It turned out to be coming from the oil pan gasket right rear corner. Some how the gasket was protruding out on that corner. FIX: Loosen the bolts on that side of the pan and pushed the gasket in ¼” and re torque the bolts. Added a can of CD2 stop leak….Problem solved. Still haven’t figured out the low oil pressure reading though.
Hi as to the oil pan bolt sequence. There is a good description in the ford service manual and there IS a distinct sequence to tighten the bolts. If you don't have access to a ford service manual contact me and I will scan it and send it to you.
GammaDriver ,I can scan it no problem. I don't have any program set up to upload it to since I upgraded my computer and drives and switched to DSL. I can send a file to you but I need an address to send it to.
the oil pan gasket on my 81 is leaking because it's weak, but as for the rusting out my truck has over 260,000km and its got the original oil pan, it must be where you're located as to how it rusted out so quickly.
I replaced my gasket at 85000..it was realy easy...only took about 30min with all the tools/parts handy. Just unbolt it and let it reast on the cross-beam and just weazel the new rubber gasket in and bolt it up...very simple job.
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96 4.9L(BIG 6) F150 Eddie Bauer Reg. cab, 5 Spd,
Hurst Shifter, Gibson Supertruck exhaust, Catco Highflow cat, K&N FIPK w/cold air induction, dual 14" electric fans...much more
We just replace the Pan Gasket on our '94 F-150 also. Although it would have been easier to do with the motor raised, it can be done with the motor mounts secured. No big deal, just takes a little patience. The original gasket came right off, and with some careful positioning of the pan, side to side and front to back, there was enough room to clean the mating surfaces, and get the new Fel Pro Gasket in place. A little RTV in the corners of the main seal area, and the new gasket went right in. Could be difficult to get a Torque wrench on all the bolts, but just tighten them as if it were a Valve Cover Gasket, and your set. Thanks to everyone for the tips and advice."If you ain't the lead dog, the view never changes"
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, it must be where you're located as to how it rusted out so quickly.
