Gotcha. Is there any way to change the current rating of the switches? Is there a fuse anywhere, or a relay that can be changed? I've only had the truck for 2 weeks so I haven't crawled around it that much yet. I plan to do that tomorrow.

 

I believe the relays are in a block and the assignments cannot be changed. I could be wrong as it has been awhile since I looked at anything having to do with them. See if anyone else chimes in.

 

The switch ratings are according to the wire size in the harness. I think the ratings change also. If I remember correctly it was something like two 30 amp and two 10 amp originally, and changed to two 30s, a 10 and a 15. Don't have my manuals on disk here, someone correct me if wrong...?

 

Also he mentioned the use of switch #3. I have always used switch #4 when I hook up a high idle. I didn`t catch that at first.

 

Another stupid question! I asked my dealer to do this for me a couple of weeks ago when I was in for an oil change and they looked at me like I was completely crazy. How could it be possible that they won't do this for a customer?

 

Just picked up a 2008 F250, low miles, cherry condition. A question on the high idle mod: Is there a way to bypass the requirement for the e-brake to be engaged? I live in a sub arctic zone, and if you apply an e-brake up here, it's not coming off again 'till April. I'd really like to do this to shorten up those January morning warmup times.

 

Just finished mine, took all of 15 minutes max. The hardest part for me was the initial location of the upfitter wires, pretty much on my truck they were directly above the bundle for the PTO wire. There was enough length to connect the two without a splice wire and I connected them together with a wire nut. (yellow/green wire and the #4 upfitter switch which is brown)

I did remove the trim piece under the steering wheel but both of the wire bundles were to the left of a silver box and were unaccessible with that trim piece removed. I had to go under the dash so to speak to get to the wire bundles.

Works as advertised when the parking brake is set its idles up to 1200 and will return to normal when the brake pedal is tapped, emergency brake is released or turning off the upfitter switch.

Super easy mod.

 

i tried this the other day and had nothing i connected the yellow with green tracer to the brown wire put on the parking brake and turned on the #4 switch and got nothing?? please help

koboss

 

i dont know what the problem might be, if the parking brake is set, I turn the truck on and flick on the upfitter switch and it works. seems to work with the engine on and putting the PB on and then flipping up the upfitter switch so its working for me????

 

Anyone...? Anyone...? Bueller?... Anyone...?

 

I'd make sure the switch will ouput power. If memory serves me correct there are some relays with the switches too. Maybe the relay is bad, or not there?

 

its wierd cause when i put the test light on it, it didnt light up with the switch on but the light in the switch lights up

 

Do you know if there is supposed to be a relay in there? I thought I remembered the switch energized a relay and the relay output hooked to the load. If this is how it's supposed to be then it sound slike the relay is missing or bad. The switch would use the source power to energize the relay and light the small light on the switch.

 

You would have to find out what signal the computer it looking for. I would guess it is a limit switch down by the park brake pedal that sends the signal. If so just wire in a toggle switch to close the circuit and you should be good to go. It wouldn't take much to do a test to see if it will work.

 

I have a 2010 with no uplifter switches. Is there another wire that is hot with the key that I can hook to? I found the yellow and green PTO switch but can't find a hot brown wire.