I know - I do the same thing about snapping off tabs. But the tabs look pretty sturdy compared with other cars - they all have inserts. I started at the lower left and lifted up - not at the top and pull down. the tabs are mounted on the removable piede and are slanted down.

 

It come right off with very small amount of force ! Pops back on same .

 

Don't know about the dealer (don't see why not), but with my Compustar you can remote start it in high idle (it ramps up a couple of seconds after starting).

 

I use my truck quite a bit for jump starting junk cars to get them up on the car hauler, or on rare occasion I have to jump my big truck as it usually sits for long durations of time. On the small cars it does fine with having the duel alternators and duel batteries; however when I try to jump my rig it takes at least 45min to an hour. I'd really like to hook up the high idle mod to my truck, but I wasn't sure if I'd run into a problem with my truck having a 6 speed stick. I'd appreciate an answer at your earliest conveniences. Thanks a bunch.

 

my dealer didn't know how to do this. high idle set up.

 

Don't see why high idle would be any different on a stick. It uses the power take off electrical system. The wiring diagram doesn't show any difference between the auto and manual

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q162.pdf

The Econolines have a different color, but the trucks are yellow/green for both gas and diesel.

 

Something with the 08's and 09's with the heavy duty or dual alternators is it only revs up to 900 instead of 1200 when hooking up to the BCP wire. I thought I hooked to the wrong wire, but I seen others had the same problem on their trucks. I am going to add a 10k resistor and see what that puts me at.

 

I have dual alts and it idles at 1200. You sure you got the right wires? I think green/yellow is the SEIC wire and brown is the #4 upfitter switch.

 

When I first hooked mine up in July I used the BCP wire and upfitter switch #3 and it would only idle up to 900 also. I thought the same as you about possibly hooking up the wrong wire until about a month ago I fired up the truck when it was about 30 degrees F out and flipped the switch and it idled up to 1200 just like my 6.0 did all the time. So I don't know what was different other than the outside temps. Mine also has the heavy duty alternator. Would like to hear some opions or answers if anyone has any... Thanks Steve

 

I have never had a poblem with mine 1200 every time. I know you have to be in park or neutral and have the parking brake for the seic to activate.

 

I hooked mine to the #3 switch and it always goes up to 1200. I use the hi idle primarily to run the AC for extended periods in the summer. I don't think it would matter which switch you wire into as long as the seic circuit sees 12volts

 

With the BCP mod, mine also only idles at 900rpm. I have put a load on the batteries and the BCP circuit is working as the rpm's increase with load.

 

Mine has the dual alternators and will idle at 1,200 (or lower) depending on the electrical system demand. The intent is also to provide charge to the batteries; if the system is low, the idle will accomodate and idle at a higher rate. My 2006 6.0L was the same.

You will find that the engine will increase idle in this mode depending on the load. With travel trailer connected, increase the demand on the electrical system by powering the electric jacks, or the push-outs -- watch the RPM's respond accordingly to meet demand.

 

Im a bit confused on the difference between going through the SEIC wire (yellow/green) or the BCP wire (color not mentioned). Whats the difference? Which is better?

 

One works of charge condition and the other works for a pto function. The BCP works of voltage, and the other wire works of a preset resitance. You have to put a resistor in to match the rpm range you want. Or you can put a reostate in and have a variable rpm ramp.