I recently purchased a 96 f-250 with a powerstroke. When it is running oil leaks out of the cooler on the side of the block, upon further investigation I found that it has rusted through. what I want to know is how much of a job is it to change it and what should I be aware of. I don't want any surprises so I figured I would ask.

 

never done one myself but i think there is a few write ups around. from what i remember its a dirty job

 

it definately looks dirty! it has been referred to as an expensive chassis lube system what a mess of oil everywhere. This is the first powerstroke I have bought and the first time I have had this problem with an oil cooler. I own 4 other diesels ranging from 88 to 93 and none have had this problem

 

If the center tube is rusted thru you will be much better off finding a used one on ebay or a scrap yard. Any cooler off a 94.5 to 03 7.3 will fit and work correctly. Chances are if the center is rusted thru then the aluminum ends are pretty corroded (sp?) as well.

 

yah Corrosion seems to be popular here in Maine especially since the introduction of calcium chloride on the state maintained roads

 

not too bad of a job just messy. pretty much bolt on the new one. if you get one from the scrap yard .if you get a reman. you wil just get the tube part and it can be a pain to press the ends back on.. good luck j

 

Yea, the chloride is a pain on my truck, really murdered the cab corners.

This year they put it down 2 times and lightly. So now i'm haveing susspension problems because of all the bumps!!!!!
Jerks.
They cant' even plow roads right here.

Clickies for you guys who i can give rep too!

 

Instructions ...here....
Parts here...

 

I am just hoping that I don't have any problems! would it be easier to get to if I took the rubber inner fender out and how much of a pain is that ?

 

get it done before the oil mixes with the coolant

 

No you don't need to remove the inner fender. plus that is a lot of work! The front header bolts can be accessed with a long extension and a swivel socket thru the wheel well and the rears are easy too from underneath

 

.....x 2......

 

obviously I am going to want to drain the antifreeze down as well as the oil when I do this project right?

 

Pretty much you will need to change both at the same time. You could drain the oil into a clean container but if you close to an oil change then jsut change it. the coolant just drain and get new along with anticaviation additive.

 

I priced the parts at 300$ from the dealer including the pipe o-rings and gaskets. filter housing seems to have little corrosion if any but I haven't checked the front housing yet. I will keep in touch with any new discoveries.