Just upgraded from my switched 10k to CHJs' inline 10k (i used to 10s inline to make 20k). I did the mod inline using the "mouth" wire from the ICP. The truck now feels stock. I have much less power and throttle response. I have read and re-read CHJs' thread but can't seem to find a solution. I will post a pic Monday. Thanks. - Goob

 

Thats cause the inline mod requires more than 10k to be effective try 18k or even 20k.
-----------Jeremy

 

he did do the 20k. he said he put 2 10's inline to make 20k. did you use the blue wire? i found out that all these trucks have differences in their wires when i tried this on a buddy of mine's '97. his was twisted differently than mine and the wires were a different color. i have had some problems trying to figure out which wire to tap into on the '99 and up's. i've only done one on a 2000 and i think i put it on the wrong wire b/c it started idling extremely rough and didn't want to start when it was cold. try the other wire and see what happens. can't hurt it as long as you don't tap into the brown wire.

 

I have a '97. Which wire did you tap into for the mod? I haven't done it yet, because I noticed my ICP is oriented differently than the ICPs shown in the posted photos.

This is my daily driver. I don't want to start cutting wires and "hope" I get the correct wire. I need to know for sure which wire I need to do this on, so I can eliminate any possible problems that may arise.

Also, the ICP is MUCH smaller than I thought it to be, judging from the posted photos and the actual size of my ICP. I don't have gauges, but I don't do a lot of towing or heavy hauling, so I thought this might be okay to do without gauges, for now.

Now I'm not so sure about doing it because I'm not sure which wire to cut.

 

Thanks I didnt catch that...lol brain lapse
------------Jeremy

 

tap into the blue wire. that should be the one that your lookin' for in your truck. i think on the '97 i did this on it went in on the back of the connector rather than where mine is in the front of the connector. if it doesn't run right, then have no worry's the coonhunterjoe way is made so that you can connect the wire back without a problem and be back to a stock truck. if it doesn't run right off of that then tap into the other wire (the other wire that isn't brown!!!) what ever you do just stay away from the brown wire b/c it will NOT work.

 

If you have stock hpop pump 20k might be to much. Mine kinda flatlines when i get to 17k. I have 10k potentiometer and 10k inline.

 

Problem solved! I had the correct wire but somehow the inline resistors were crammed together in such a way that i was only reading about 8-9 ohms. re-did the whaole thing with 2 5.6ks and 1 10k and it works. But that combo onlt seems to get me about the same as my original 10k did, just with a smoother idle. I think that is b/c I have an injectoe on the way out. Thanks for the help!

 

Thanks, tatsch. I figured out from my reading that the brown wire was a "no-no" for "go-go" with this mod. Both of the other wires looked blue to me.

I'm just gonna have to unwrap the tape and see if the colors are better underneath. If I understand this mod, the wire I want is blue with a red tracer, correct?

If one wire is brown and I want to tap into the blue wire, what color is the third wire? If it's blue, too, how do I know which one to tap into?

 

If your throwing 2 resistors inline, you should probably just twist them together and toss in a dab of soldier to them.
You were probably getting poor resistance doo to a bad connection. =)
Do not use barrel crims if you can either, they are poor connectors and really should only be used in a pinch (clikies for the pun!!!!! pweeze! ) Pluss if they coorode, they start to loose connections.
Yea, i know a bunch of you are goign to say i've used them for years blah blah. Yes. they work good. But! They are not as effective as soldiering or screw caps.

I honestly dont see a point in running 2 10ks in line, Just run a 20k. Haveing 2 in line does no difference then a 20k.
Unless its strickly for easy adjustments in resitance for testing.

 

radioshack doesn't sell a straight 20k resistor. they only have the 10k and 22k. i think they have an 18k, but if they did then how come i haven't used any of them??? i would have to go and see, but i know they don't have a regular 20k, which is why we are putting 2 10k's inline to make a 20k. and a 10k inline with a 5.6k to make a 15.6k.

Mooseman, i think that the other wire is green with a blue tracer, but i can't remember right off the top of my head. i know on the '97 i did this on, the wires were faded enough outside the tape that they both looked blue, but under the tape they were different colors.

 

Looks like I need to buy a bunch of 20k's to sell to all you guys. :P

 

wow, sorry i missed this one too, its been a real busy start to the week. here is another pic of the wire you want to use. and the 21.2k maybe too much for your pump, i havent done 20k but the 22k kills mine dead in the water. the 14.7 or 15.6 might work better for you, try those out. mine was a noticable difference from the old 10k vs my 10k, but i never tried any other resistors stuck in the back of the connector.

 

Trying to get 15.6k mod to work in my 2000 f250 super duty. Currently have it inline on gray/red wire...not much change from stock. Tried a 22k on the blue wire but truck would not start so switched to gray/red with little to no change. Will this mod even work on a super duty or am I just wasting effort?

 

WOW! you awake an OLD thread; welcome aboard. I wouldn bother with this OLD mod, better get a chip, night/day difference IMHO.