1965 Ford F250 - Horn Diagram
#2
Check the current Dennis Carpenter catalog, pp. 19-20. Link: http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/...noline2006.pdf
You can also check out John's F100s. Personally, I have not been happy with their service and shipping times (others may have had a better experience), but their catalog has a more detailed horn schematic.
You can also check out John's F100s. Personally, I have not been happy with their service and shipping times (others may have had a better experience), but their catalog has a more detailed horn schematic.
#3
Originally Posted by johninraleigh
Check the current Dennis Carpenter catalog, pp. 19-20. Link: http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/pdf/57-66&Econoline2006.pdf
You can also check out John's F100s. Personally, I have not been happy with their service and shipping times (others may have had a better experience), but their catalog has a more detailed horn schematic.
You can also check out John's F100s. Personally, I have not been happy with their service and shipping times (others may have had a better experience), but their catalog has a more detailed horn schematic.
Installing the horn under the hood? Custom Cabs have two horns (Hi and Lo), standard cabs have one (Hi). The same horns were used on cars from 1958 thru 1979, on trucks from 1958 thru the 1990's.
Last edited by NumberDummy; 11-04-2007 at 08:38 AM.
#4
I have not been able to find the horn circuit in either the shop manual for the 65 Ford truck, or the Electrical diagram manual for the 65 Ford truck. Not an authority, seem to recall there is a single hot wire that goes to the column horn ring and the shaft acts as the ground. I went thru the circuit at the horn button and replaced the brush insulator, brush; suggest pickup an extra, they are flimsy, and horn button retaining ring. Basically went thru and made sure components designed to be insulated were in good condition, and components that were to be grounded to complete the circuit were cleaned of any surface film. Want to make sure the brush is making good contact between the button ring and horn ring in column. Horn now works fine although if I ever need to remove steering wheel I will clean any remaining surfaces. I first tested the horn(s) to make sure it worked.
dave
dave
#5
Welcome to FTE. You'll find a bunch of knowledge on here. Be sure to use the "search" function found at the upper right corner of the forum pages. It should bring up a lot of pages that others have posted before. Also look in the tech/article tab.
4 things needed to make the horm work: column wire with brush contacts, horn relay, horn(s), and positive wires. The positive wire comes from the battery to the relay then on to the horn(s). The relay also has a third wire, ground, that runs up the column to the horn button. When you press the button it grounds out the relay to allow the contact inside to complete the positive circuit to the horn from the battery. The horn(s) use their own ground on the grill to make sound. If you don't have the contacts under the horn ring you can use an aftermarket horn button in the meantime.
If you look at the link I posted it has the same info that works for the 65.
http://www.tocmp.com/tOCMP/wiring/19...964_09_gif.htm
4 things needed to make the horm work: column wire with brush contacts, horn relay, horn(s), and positive wires. The positive wire comes from the battery to the relay then on to the horn(s). The relay also has a third wire, ground, that runs up the column to the horn button. When you press the button it grounds out the relay to allow the contact inside to complete the positive circuit to the horn from the battery. The horn(s) use their own ground on the grill to make sound. If you don't have the contacts under the horn ring you can use an aftermarket horn button in the meantime.
If you look at the link I posted it has the same info that works for the 65.
http://www.tocmp.com/tOCMP/wiring/19...964_09_gif.htm
Last edited by airharley; 11-04-2007 at 11:36 AM. Reason: missing info
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