hey guys. i recently got an 85 ranger in real nice shape for cheap. one of my big problems is that the motor always wants to stall out right when i start to take off at low rpms. since the truck is stick, its a problem through all the gears, and its getting really annoying. my mechanic narrowed it down to a "choke pulloff". i work at a napa and i got the part for 12 bucks. now all i need to know is how to go about installing it. i was wondering if theres a walkthrough somewhere that i can follow. i was given some rough verbal directions, but i like to look at some pictures and stuff to see if im doing it right. especially if its new to me. can anyone help me out? thanks alot.
I'm not all that familiar with that particular one, but generally it's a pretty easy installation. It's a simple vacuum dashpot that mounts to the carb with two screws on its bracket. The linkage is held into a slot that allows it to slide with a simple circlip, hopefully your new pulloff comes with that circlip as it's very easy to lose the little bugger when you take it off. Then there's a vacuum hose to tkae off and reconnect, and that's really about all there is to it.
Here's a link to a PDF file with some explicit instructions and pics. Scroll down to page 4 and 5 for some detailed pics of the pulloff and its removal:
"alot" is not a word, it's two words...
Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
I have an 84 Bronco II with the exact same Motor. It takes about 15 minutes to do this repair. First off remove the air cleaner from atop the Carburetor. Next find the choke pulloff attached to the carburetor, It will be on the back left if you are facing the front of the truck. The hard part is trying to get a screwdriver or socket onto the screws that hold the pulloff to the carburetor since there is no easy way to see them. Just do it by feeling and take your time because the thing thats a pain is to drop the screws some where in the motor compartment. Once you have got those screws undone remove the vacuum line from the old choke pulloff and then install the new one in the reverse order. Now if you complete this and you still have this problem of stalling at low rpm it may be the carburetors accelerator pump.
All the choke pulloff really does is open the choke to a specified opening while the truck is cold. This allows the motor to suck in air from around the choke plate while the truck is cold. Since the pulloff is only opening the choke plate a certain amount this will cause the fuel mixture to be richer which is need on cold engine start up. Now as the motor warms up the the choke is gradually opened by the choke cap by an electrical pulse signal. Basically a coil of wire inside the cap is heated by an electrical current causing the choke to open as the wire is heated greater and greater.
So what Im trying to say through all that is that the choke pulloff really only matters when the truck is first started. Once it is at operating temperature and the choke has been fully opened by the choke cap the pulloff no longer matters. So if your truck is stalling after being driven for a while it wont be the choke pull off.
I had a very similar problem with my truck for about a year and only about 6 months ago found the problem. It had to do with the accelerator pump. So anyway my hand is getting tired from typing, so if the pulloff does not fix your problem. give me a shout back here and I can help you out.
Last edited by Canadianice; 11-06-2007 at 01:54 PM.
hey guys, thanks for both of the responses. i used info from both when i put the choke pull off on. it wasnt hard at all, but i still ahve the same problem. but now the truck starts up first time instead of 2nd or 3rd try.
canadianice, i bought the accelerator pump today at work (i work at a NAPA) and it cost me 8 bucks. how do i go about doing this repair? i dont recall seeing anything about it in tigerdan's link, then again, i didnt read all the way through it. thanks for the advice guys.
It is in there about half way down the article. its an amazing article i would really suggest reading it. It is really simple to install the accelerator pump, first take off the air cleaner once again. Then at the front of the carb. you will see the accelerator pump rod that extends out from the where the throttle linkage attaches to the carb.. Follow the linkage back to the front of the carb. where it will attach to a swivel arm that activates the accelerator pump. You will see 4 screws holding the housing to the accelerator pump to the main body of the carb.. Remove these but be careful as fuel will leak out when you take the housing off, just make sure to have a few rags handy to catch it. At this point the accelerator pump will be right here and you should with no big deal be able to replace it and reinstall everything.
While you have the accelerator pump apart make sure the little red diaphragm that is a one way valve is in great shape, if not I recommend replacing it as well. to do that read through that link that was provided for you and it will making visualizing this very easy. You will need to remove the top of the carb. housing. there are six screws that need to be removed to remove it. Then once that is off you will be able to see inside the Carb. where the float is located. Remove the float by reading the instructions in that link. Once the float is removed then you can see where that red diaphragm end enters the fuel bowl of the carb. to allow fuel into the accelerator pump. This will enable you to, if needed, to pull the the end of the new diaphragm through into the fuel bowl.
Now when I was having this problem just like you it was also another problem besides the accelerator pump. after you remove the accelerator pump take a look at the little hole right above the round red diaphragm. The hole should be very small maybe big enough to get a small needle through. what this hole does is allow a certain amount of fuel to be pushed back into the fuel bowl instead of down the hole underneath the red diaphragm that shoots the fuel into the carb to allow you to accelerate. So if the hole is to big it will allow to much fuel to go back into the fuel bowl and not squirt it into the fuel air mixture. this is why i was getting the stalling on acceleration issue.
If you assemble the carb with the new parts and it still does the stalling thing this little top hole is you problem, it will need to be made smaller by plugging it more somehow. That I must leave to you, because the reason my my trucks return hole was to big is because the place I purchased the remanufactured carb from were idiots and had given me the wrong carb body with a bigger hole. After a year of intense investigation i solved this problem by going to an auto wrecked and getting a junker carb off a bronco II and rebuilding the right body with the new parts of the remanufactured carb.
Good luck, shoot me with questions if you have them.
alright, just wrapped everything up. it seems to have fixed the problem, or atleast made it better. the real test is going to be tomorrow morning when its 34 degrees out and the truck sat all night. hopefully im in the clear.
the repair was really easy too. it would have taken about 20 minutes if i didnt have to scrape the old gasket off of the housing. once again, the biggest challenge was finding enough space for tools.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Fordģ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.