I have what I believe to be valve train noise coming from my 95 F-150 with the 300 I6. The truck has 100,000 on the clock, should the valves need adjusting at this point? The Chilton's manual contains the procedure but no information on the interval at which the valves should be adjusted.
Good news. The 300 has hydraulic lifters and there's not valve backlash or tappet adjustment. They adjust automatically. The Ford V-8s use hydraulic lifters too. If you're hearing ticking noise, it not something that can be adjusted out.
I talked with a Ford mechanic and an ex-owner of a Ford dealership. They both listened to the truck and said "They all sound like that". Does any one else's late model 300 I6 sound like valves are rattling around (it isn't really a tick)? I had a 70 F-100 with a 240 which sounded like that but it was 30 years old on the original engine. I was told that noise was "piston slop". I don't remember for sure if my 93 made the same noise; if it did, it was to a lesser extent.
The oil pressure is good and the engine runs strong, am I concerned about nothing? I haven't pulled the serpentine belt and ran the engine, but the noise doesn't appear to be coming from an accessory. Could the throw-out bearing make this noise?
My 91 300 has 202,000 and i experience the same tapping noise seemingly from the #3 cyl. I was also told that Ford engines tend to do that after a while. I am also interested in solving this problem. Will i need head work or just an intense cleaning?
I know what you mean, mine gets a ticking sometimes that sounds like some serious metal wear going on. And when I 1st crank it and after reving, as the RPMS slow down, the piston knock sounds like a diesel motor. Its been doing all of that for over 150,000 miles and its still going. Slick 50 quiets everything down really well until you drain it out with an oil change. Here's something funny, my old neighbor was a 18 truck wheeler driver, had his own rig. He always thought my truck was diesel, because it sounded like his big rig. He borrowed my truck for some reason and tried to gas it up, but didn't because the diesel nozzle wouldn't fit or maybe he saw the unleaded gas sticker on the gas door, I can't remember which. It confused him so he held off.
My 300 in my 94 sounds like a diesel on start up. I found that more freqent oil changes were needed, as soon as I started hearing the clatter on a regular basis, I changed the oil. I end up doing a oil change every 2 months on average and filter every second time. So far It has kept the engine in check. I use 5w30 in summer and 10w30 in winter.
The diesel noise upon start-up is the lifters. Replace your oil filter with an FL-1a from Motorcraft and the noise should go away. The Motorcraft oil filters have a check valve which keeps all the oil from the lifter valley from draining back through the filter into the pan. There is also a kit you can buy from Ford, but the oil filter change is much cheaper and easier.
My noise comes on about 1 minute after start-up, right when the idle settles in and it really isn't a tick, it is more of a knock.
my 93 has a slight tick to it when its idling. it doesnt sound like anything important but i was told they all tick...funny thing is my dads 95 doesnt tick, it has a whistling noise to it ever since he bought it new. i dont notice any performace loss and the oil doesnt show any signs of wear other than normal, the oil is nice n black when i change it no metal and it doesnt burn any so im not worried about it. althought mine has 77,000+ original miles on it so its not even broken in yet but could that slight ticking lead to problems in the future?
I seem to have the same if not similar problem in my newly rebuilt motor from Evergreen Engines in Spokane. However my rockers emit a squeaking noise sounding very much like a bad belt. Over any over I've tightened the rockers little by little (1/8 to 1/4 turn) over the past few months and this'll take care of it for about a week.... but then the squeak continues. I'm using the factory locknuts on the rocker studs and there's no apparent stud pulling. (If there's sufficient clearance I'm gonna try a straightedge along the tops of the studs next time). Sure is frustrating though. I'm used to once I fix something, by thunder, it stays fixed. Any thoughts on this?
There's still something missing! Look at your rocker arms. With a cooled engine, move each rocker by hand. it shouldn't move more than 1 millimeter on each side, but it should move. My 240 did that. Hydraulic cams do have a little maintance. Every now and then they do need adjustment. Never heard of any rocker arm that adjusts itself. Thicker oil helps a little as well (but with winter coming lighter would be a little better).
BTW, Mechanical lifters are the ones you adjust.......ALOT