Soft brake pedal?
#1
10-31-2007, 06:01 PM
#2
10-31-2007, 06:19 PM
#3
10-31-2007, 06:22 PM
Originally Posted by montecarlo31
Vac leak or pressure issue somewhere, my chevy 1500 does it, i've learned to live with it because it's out of warranty, does this occure after a low vac situation? If it were under warranty i'd take it back, could be a leak somewhere.
I happens most of the time. One pump and it is rock solid.
#4
10-31-2007, 11:10 PM
No but, there is a sort of a "clunk" from the brake pedal when I push on the brake. It has the adjustable pedals, so I figure this is why, but it does not seem to affect the function of the brakes any. Just another 07 quirk I guess.
The brake lines may have some air in them. It does not take much air to cause a soft pedal. The dealer may need to bleed the brakes.
The brake lines may have some air in them. It does not take much air to cause a soft pedal. The dealer may need to bleed the brakes.
#5
11-07-2007, 09:44 AM
#7
06-16-2008, 03:54 PM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-resolved.html
Anyone read this? Seems to fix their trucks, may work for ours.
Anyone read this? Seems to fix their trucks, may work for ours.
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#8
08-11-2008, 01:38 PM
Noticed the same mushy pedal on my new 08. Usually the second time around, the pedal stiffens but the first always catches me off-guard. It's annoying, especially coming from an 05 M3 and 06 Evolution MR. I'll see if I can have the dealer bleed the brakes, as it certainly feels like air in the lines.
#10
08-11-2008, 02:06 PM
Common in that it's a standard brake trait of Fords due to use of certain brake components? Or common in that the brakes aren't properly adjusted/bled at the factory? If it's the former, then I can save time going down to the service department. If it's the latter, then I'd certainly like to have my brakes adjusted...
#11
08-11-2008, 02:22 PM
#12
08-11-2008, 02:25 PM
I just got done reading the threads in the F150 forums. Seems like a fairly simple procedure. Take the MC off, adjust the nut on the end of the booster shaft, and viola.. brake mush gone. Gonna try this sometime this week. May end up saving me a trip to the dealership if it's really as simple as the fix implies.
#13
08-11-2008, 02:27 PM
Here was a post I found in one of the threads:
This is what i did when i first got my truck. My wife was kinda upset i was already working on it.
The fix for "Mushy brake pedal feel" is quite simple. Most of the ford vehicles i have owned needed this fix done.
There is a shaft that is adjustable behind the Master Cylinder and is attached to the brake booster. You need to take off the master cylinder but DO NOT remove any of the master cylinder brake lines (Be careful not to bend any). There is enough room to move the master cylinder out of the way and not remove the lines. Be careful not to lose the O-ring that seals the master cylinder to the Brake Booster. It will be kinda tough to remove at first because of the vacuum that is still in there. The 2 nuts that need to be removed are 1/2". After the master cylinder is removed use a 45* or 90* needle nose pliers to hold the splined shaft and unscrew the 7mm bolt on the end of the shaft. This makes the rod longer which engages the brakes sooner. I unscrewed mine (2008 f150 4x4 screw) 3/4 of a turn and it seems to be about right. I took mine for a test drive and then jacked up the front of the truck and spun the tires to see how much drag i had. If you unscrew the bolt too far it will keep the brakes engaged and you will have a warped rotor or a lot of brake dust . If you look at the pictures i used a paint pen and marked the top of my socket so i knew how far i had unscrewed the bolt. Assemble in the reverse order. If you have any questions or this doesn't make sense let me know and i will try to further explain. Good Luck!!!!
The fix for "Mushy brake pedal feel" is quite simple. Most of the ford vehicles i have owned needed this fix done.
There is a shaft that is adjustable behind the Master Cylinder and is attached to the brake booster. You need to take off the master cylinder but DO NOT remove any of the master cylinder brake lines (Be careful not to bend any). There is enough room to move the master cylinder out of the way and not remove the lines. Be careful not to lose the O-ring that seals the master cylinder to the Brake Booster. It will be kinda tough to remove at first because of the vacuum that is still in there. The 2 nuts that need to be removed are 1/2". After the master cylinder is removed use a 45* or 90* needle nose pliers to hold the splined shaft and unscrew the 7mm bolt on the end of the shaft. This makes the rod longer which engages the brakes sooner. I unscrewed mine (2008 f150 4x4 screw) 3/4 of a turn and it seems to be about right. I took mine for a test drive and then jacked up the front of the truck and spun the tires to see how much drag i had. If you unscrew the bolt too far it will keep the brakes engaged and you will have a warped rotor or a lot of brake dust . If you look at the pictures i used a paint pen and marked the top of my socket so i knew how far i had unscrewed the bolt. Assemble in the reverse order. If you have any questions or this doesn't make sense let me know and i will try to further explain. Good Luck!!!!
#15
08-11-2008, 04:01 PM