Hello,

Does anyone have solid advice on getting this job done? I have got so many versions of what to do and outlandish pricing from many different shops.

What are some pitfalls?

What does it take to get it done?

Thank you in advance to anyone who responds,

Jason
Denver, Colorado

 

I am pretty confident that you must raise the engine to remove this gasket. With that said it can be a daunting task better left to a pro. I say this being a pro myself due to if it starts to leak after all the work put in you can usually get them to correct it free. Good luck

 

If it's just the gasket that needs to be replaced, you do not have to lift the engine at all. The pan will drop down enough for you to get the old gasket out and to snake the new gasket back into place. Get a one piece rubber gasket from Ford and budget about 2 hours for the procedure. Pay attention to the torque specification for the pan bolts when tightening so that the new gasket does not get ruined by over-torquing. It's a pretty simple repair for the do-it-yourselfer.

 

Thanks for getting back to me. How do you raise the engine, jack stands? I believe that the engine on the 4x4 must be raised but on the 2x4 it does not have to be. As for torque specs on the bolts, I hear after it is snug, an additional half to three quarter turn gets the job done without damaging the gasket.

Thoughts?

 

Thanks for getting back to me. I'm a gamer, so I'm going to try it myself, thanks for the advice and I will take a clear visual of the job to make sure mount brackets are not blocking any bolts. Do you know if it is a gasket that takes silicon?

Jason

 

I have done this job several times, and I can tell you that you can ignore anyone who says you have to lift the engine as they don't know what they're talking about.

It's actually a very straightforward job. The hardest part is getting to the bolts that are right above the engine crossmember.

Just remove all the bolts and the pan will drop down a couple inches. Cut the old gasket and remove it. Get the replacement into place - make sure you use the one-piece gasket made by felpro. Do not use the four piece gasket with the cork and rubber pieces. You'll never get it to not leak. Don't use any silicon or rtv, it goes in dry. And most importantly, don't over-torque the bolts.

 

Andy,

Thanks for the vote of confidence and your advice on the felpro gasket. I'm going to do this on Sunday. As for the torquing the bolts I was going to go just a bit snug than run it for the day and recheck. I have made the mistake several times of over torquing bolts and shearing them right off.

Thanks bro

Jason
Denver, Co
1994 F250 xl 2x4 351 5.8 (man, she's a gas guzzlin bitch, but she's a runner)

 

There is 1 detail nobody has mentioned yet, exactly how do you get a 1 piece gasket around the oil pump and pickup? Do you wrap the gasket up over the outside of the pan, or somehow dangle it inside the pan and loop it under the oil pickup?

 

Drop half of it into the pan, and fish it out the other side. Hopefully you miss the oil pump pickup.

 

Thanks guys!

Jason

 

That's what I thought.. sounds like it could be a bit of "fun" considering the cramped quarters. I used the 1 piece steel core/rubber coated Motorsports pan gasket on my build and it has never leaked.. I think the oil pan will rust out first.

 

Wow, I guess I am going to be ignored from now on. I guess Ford folks arent as friendly over the computer as they are in person. Thanks for tongue lashing.

 

We are not unfriendly, and most posts are friendliest and for the benefit of the person posting the problem.

And anyone that spends a little time here soon realizes that we usually collectively are far superior in diagnosis and in methods of repair than the "PROS".

About the only time someone is reffered to the "PROS" around here is when it involves expensive specialized application specific tools.

 

If you really are a "pro" a little abuse will just roll off your back like water on a duck. You are new here so here's the scoop, you have to build up some cred before people take your word. This is very much a DIY centric forum.. many people don't want to hear you need to pay some guy $80/hr to change a $15 part.. even if it is a bit of an ugly job. So stick around and contribute some info or wrenching tips whenever you can and people will start to come around.

 

Take it easy CONANSKI. In some instances, labor for a mechanic does not add up. $660 to change an oil pan gasket is ripping people off. $375 to change the starter, even a bigger rip off, this is how I became interested again in maintaining my own truck, I bought the starter for $120 and had in it in less than an hour. So, not being a pro, and having to crawl under the truck, would lead me to believe that a pro could do the job in less than 30 minutes, that would be $160 plus tax to get the job done. See my point.

Nobody here is complaining, just seeking advice and expressing concerns over getting the job done themselves or done by a trusted mechanic. I never have a problem paying for quality, but I will get dirty and in over my head before someone tries to rip me off.

Thanks again to everyone who responded to my post, I found the FELPRO gasket at Napa for $30 plus tax, $20 cheaper than any other place. I plan on doing the job on Sunday and will let everyone know how the job goes.

Peace

Jason

Denver, Colorado